You guys are my best peeps so I know I can count on you.... I may just need to vent about this.
My 16 year old dump trailer has a single acting 12v pump. and the ground wire from the motor to the solenoid maybe wasn't the thickest grade of wire to begin with, and I had replaced it about ten years ago with a same size wire as the original, which I replaced because it had gotten hot enough to melt the rubber insulation way back then. When I replaced it, about six inch length, the stud coming out of the motor was rusty and questionable, but I was able to remove the nut and put it back on. Other work I have done? I replaced the metal tank with a new one about ten years ago, because it had rusted out. and eight years ago, I put a new solenoid on it with a generic Chevy solenoid ($12.00) . That was easy, since the ground wire on the motor stud didn't need to come off. In 2011 I cut the rusted bed sides off the tray, about three inches, and set it aside, then cut the tray (bed frame) off and built a new one out of 2x3, using the old as a pattern. The new bed skin got welded down, and because I narrowed the length and width by 1/4 inch, the old sides were set down and welded to the side of the dump bed. Continuous welded the bed floor to the sides, and I eliminated the moisture trap that rusted out the frame tubing. Last year, I cut the sides off and set it aside and removed the bed skin- both were rusted out enough now to replace them both (but I didn't have to build a new dump frame this time), and after cleaning up the dump frame. The bed skin basically rusted through from the top down, with big scaling rust, and the sides were just the same. big pocks of scaling section loss. BUT. the rebuild I had done in 11 really paid off doing it the way I had. when I see dump trailers today, they are simply rusting the frame because the way the manufacturers are assembling them. When I put the new bed down and built new sides this time, I used the same technique, but the wife and I spent alot of time with degreaser and Ospho/Prep and Etch, getting it ready for paint, including thin prime coats of Rustoleum (black) and two final coats of yellow over a two week period - under cover in the pole barn. The original Chassis is unmolested C- channel that while it has rust, its just a different grade of steel, and is solid. it got wire brushed, and really worked on, since we had access to it with no bed skin or sides. I did replace both axles leaf springs and shackles and the equalizers this past spring as well.
I live on the beach and BOUY ( Big Old Ugly Yellow Trailer) has spent much of his life here instead of at the ranch 25 minutes away, but technically only 4 miles west of the river and ocean. Rust never sleeps. As well as we prepped the new steel, (TSP, stiff boat brushes, pressure washer, and Ospho) we still have some places that the Rustoleum didn't bond to, and of course using the trailer mostly to haul my skid steer, the bed needs a fresh coat. I thinking the mill scale or preservative the factory puts on it didn't get cleaned off well enough. but now, a year later, I think with a grinder, and or belt sander or DA, I can get the metal clean, and the coat of paint will bond without question.
Last evening, was the last straw. The insulation on this ground wire is gone, and the wire was glowing red. I had a load of soil I was trying to dump, and it was straining, but working. The deep cycle battery had 11.7 in it, but I wound up putting my charger booster on ( the battery) it to finish the dump cycle- me thinking the ground of the battery and the generator would help the situation.
I'm not hopeful I could find a electric motor shop that would tear down the motor and replace the stud, frankly. And its WAY beyond my ability. 12 v automotive electric is my Krytponite, I'm powerless. I believe I will just order a new pump/tank and install it- but what chaps my ass is my Dad would be telling me it works, and someone could fix the ground stud. He's been dead for 12 years, but he'd be right- I can't stand throwing it out, so it will go on a shelf or bench I guess.
Have any of you opened up one of these things? Is it feasible to think I could remove the motor and maybe put a sheave or lovejoy coupling on it and have a gas powered hydro pump? Or maybe put a sheave or driveshaft on it and use my Ag Tractor PTO to run it? When I replaced the tank, I didn't have to mess with the motor side of the pump. I think I may have even left it mounted in the frame and slid the old tank off and on. My buddy wasn't sure if the pump is built for gas or PTO, since it is instant torque with an electric motor.
I think I am resigned to buying a replacement pump/motor/tank unit complete for my trailer anyway since the throw away society has consumed everything, but am anxious to hear what you men and women think?
My 16 year old dump trailer has a single acting 12v pump. and the ground wire from the motor to the solenoid maybe wasn't the thickest grade of wire to begin with, and I had replaced it about ten years ago with a same size wire as the original, which I replaced because it had gotten hot enough to melt the rubber insulation way back then. When I replaced it, about six inch length, the stud coming out of the motor was rusty and questionable, but I was able to remove the nut and put it back on. Other work I have done? I replaced the metal tank with a new one about ten years ago, because it had rusted out. and eight years ago, I put a new solenoid on it with a generic Chevy solenoid ($12.00) . That was easy, since the ground wire on the motor stud didn't need to come off. In 2011 I cut the rusted bed sides off the tray, about three inches, and set it aside, then cut the tray (bed frame) off and built a new one out of 2x3, using the old as a pattern. The new bed skin got welded down, and because I narrowed the length and width by 1/4 inch, the old sides were set down and welded to the side of the dump bed. Continuous welded the bed floor to the sides, and I eliminated the moisture trap that rusted out the frame tubing. Last year, I cut the sides off and set it aside and removed the bed skin- both were rusted out enough now to replace them both (but I didn't have to build a new dump frame this time), and after cleaning up the dump frame. The bed skin basically rusted through from the top down, with big scaling rust, and the sides were just the same. big pocks of scaling section loss. BUT. the rebuild I had done in 11 really paid off doing it the way I had. when I see dump trailers today, they are simply rusting the frame because the way the manufacturers are assembling them. When I put the new bed down and built new sides this time, I used the same technique, but the wife and I spent alot of time with degreaser and Ospho/Prep and Etch, getting it ready for paint, including thin prime coats of Rustoleum (black) and two final coats of yellow over a two week period - under cover in the pole barn. The original Chassis is unmolested C- channel that while it has rust, its just a different grade of steel, and is solid. it got wire brushed, and really worked on, since we had access to it with no bed skin or sides. I did replace both axles leaf springs and shackles and the equalizers this past spring as well.
I live on the beach and BOUY ( Big Old Ugly Yellow Trailer) has spent much of his life here instead of at the ranch 25 minutes away, but technically only 4 miles west of the river and ocean. Rust never sleeps. As well as we prepped the new steel, (TSP, stiff boat brushes, pressure washer, and Ospho) we still have some places that the Rustoleum didn't bond to, and of course using the trailer mostly to haul my skid steer, the bed needs a fresh coat. I thinking the mill scale or preservative the factory puts on it didn't get cleaned off well enough. but now, a year later, I think with a grinder, and or belt sander or DA, I can get the metal clean, and the coat of paint will bond without question.
Last evening, was the last straw. The insulation on this ground wire is gone, and the wire was glowing red. I had a load of soil I was trying to dump, and it was straining, but working. The deep cycle battery had 11.7 in it, but I wound up putting my charger booster on ( the battery) it to finish the dump cycle- me thinking the ground of the battery and the generator would help the situation.
I'm not hopeful I could find a electric motor shop that would tear down the motor and replace the stud, frankly. And its WAY beyond my ability. 12 v automotive electric is my Krytponite, I'm powerless. I believe I will just order a new pump/tank and install it- but what chaps my ass is my Dad would be telling me it works, and someone could fix the ground stud. He's been dead for 12 years, but he'd be right- I can't stand throwing it out, so it will go on a shelf or bench I guess.
Have any of you opened up one of these things? Is it feasible to think I could remove the motor and maybe put a sheave or lovejoy coupling on it and have a gas powered hydro pump? Or maybe put a sheave or driveshaft on it and use my Ag Tractor PTO to run it? When I replaced the tank, I didn't have to mess with the motor side of the pump. I think I may have even left it mounted in the frame and slid the old tank off and on. My buddy wasn't sure if the pump is built for gas or PTO, since it is instant torque with an electric motor.
I think I am resigned to buying a replacement pump/motor/tank unit complete for my trailer anyway since the throw away society has consumed everything, but am anxious to hear what you men and women think?