Canada is a big place. Likely most provinces and territories still don't have a governing body in terms of chainsaw certs? I could be wrong on that?in canada, they teach humboldt as a standard, but also the other basic methods as alternatives, each with its own purpose and need.
Note the standard/saginaw is not standard around here for a reason. It has its uses, but is less useful then humboldt or even bidsmouth or block face
Does it work yes, is it easy to learn, I guess, if only cause you can see your cuts better.
But the humboldt does 3 important things to a tree as its falling, fist being it naturally prevents back slip, second it leaves a taller stump when you're on steep ground its the stumps that keep logs from rolling down hills and killing people, and 3rd, allows the butt to slide to the dirt taking a great deal of the energy out of the falling tree and letting it "lay" rather then slam to the ground. All three of these things a standard face needs extra steps to achieve, such as a taller back cut, dutching the face to get it to "jump" off the stump, and still not being very good at not breaking timber, Though if you want the butt to stay off the ground, or intend to cause a back slip (very dangerous) then a standard works dandy.
They do have on-line do diligence courses that are
Occupational Health & Safety (OHS) approved. May just be for handling & maintenance for personal insurance and popular in industry with provinces with 'no certs'? Perhaps they cover basic F & B.
Certainly in merch timber production in BC then Humboldt is the main practice so anyone going through BC Fallers course would be practising that. Other than merch production you see more conventional. Probably 80+/20%.
Most all Gov (and contract) fire fallers cut conventional, same as Seismic fallers as well beetle work plus certified utility arborist/arborist and the list goes on...
Outside of 'production ' then it doesn't really matter what certified cut or cut sequence you use as long as you can maintain 3 out of 4 good stumps and they are going in the right place.
Somebody audits your work they just put a checkmark on a good stump & take a pic. Back in the day stumps were graded 0 that been a fail then 12 meets standards. 15 being a cherry stump. 13s & 14s were good quality. Hardwood and frozen wood, then pie cut was preferred but not enforced. You would just lose a point if it was otherwise between 13 & 15. Just a check mark now a days.
At least 6 yrs from when I started doing the Humboldt I did the angle cut first. Cutting a lot of small trees quick I got good at aiming off my body position but sometimes when the aim was right the bar was still dipped giving a crooked undercut. You get a nice flat back cut but end up with a high step on the far side unless you take the time to correct before B/C. When you did need to get behind the sight lines, well you can figure out a few tricks but its not as good.
Point is I can do the same speed with much better aim and stump quality with flat cut first.
I guess that was the thing for my that it was easy to line uo cuts