Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
I looked at that mess for a good 30 to 45 minutes from several different angles. Determining with my best judgment. How much spring and twist load they all had. What was supporting what what was pinning down what so on and so on. It's a puzzle for sure!šŸ‘
Sometimes you just know what needs to be done, other times you just know you'll get it done, sometime lol.
This one I just cleaned off everything that I could, then crippled the branch closest to his rake. Then I tickled it until it went and ran out under it the way he's looking. never had to deal with a top that landed like this, but it went smooth as could be :clap:.
Screen Shot 2023-12-29 at 12.42.19 AM.png
This one was a hair taller than I thought, about 4' actually, good thing I had 8-10' to play with :laugh:.
His well is under the flower pot, plenty of space!
 
Sometimes you just know what needs to be done, other times you just know you'll get it done, sometime lol.
This one I just cleaned off everything that I could, then crippled the branch closest to his rake. Then I tickled it until it went and ran out under it the way he's looking. never had to deal with a top that landed like this, but it went smooth as could be :clap:.
View attachment 1139545
This one was a hair taller than I thought, about 4" actually, good thing I had 8-10' to play with :laugh:.
His well is under the flower pot, plenty of space!

That saw sounds good!šŸ‘ What's specie of tree is that?
 
That saw sounds good!šŸ‘ What's specie of tree is that?
It's a ported 562, it runs well for sure.
Black locust, one of the best for being rot resistant. Unfortunately they don't typically grow very big and they aren't the straightest for milling.
 
Another small fire. Supposed to cool down today and go below freezing for the next week so I may have opportunity to load up the firebox.
PXL_20231229_140147239.MP.jpg
This is my flintlock. It was my great grandfather's and is passed to the oldest son of the oldest son. It was made by the tower company and near as I can tell is an India pattern brown bess. It's shorter than the traditional brown bess used in North American wars. The mechanism still works but I have never fired it not will I ever.PXL_20231229_140805521.jpgPXL_20231229_141357038.jpgPXL_20231229_141414615.jpg
 
I am 30 or 40 pages behind so if this has been beat to death, just overlook my post. I use a AvidArmor vacuum sealer. I tried a food saver and it didnt last a year. I bought the avidarmor sealer based on my cousin reccomendations that puts up a ton of meat each year. I found a pack of sausage in my freezer that was 5 years old and it was still good. I bought mine shortly after and have had it about 3 years. We buy bulk packs of meat and split it up into meals for two for the freezer, so I use mine just about every week. For freezing sausage and deer. I use those plastic game bages that hold about a 1lb of meat each. I will make three bags full and then place the three bags into one sealing bag and vacuum seal it. I usually dont grind any beef for hamburger, but I will buy the big packs at the store and strip off the plastic wrap and cut the trays in half and remove the absorbant pad and then cut in half and place the meat and tray inside a sealing bag to seal. If I dont leave the tray, the sealer sucks the meat flat like a pancake. I use the rolls of sealer bags and cut to lenghts needed instead of buying the premade bags. We also put up cream corn in vaccuum seal bags. There is a trick to sealing liquids or very juicy materials like cooked vegatables. The key is to partally freeze it in the bag before applying the suction. This keeps the machine from sucking liquids all thru it and making it a mess to clean. I also prefere to freeze raw veggies instead of cooked. They retain more of their fresh taste that way.
Great info thanks
 
Thanks bud. Wasn't fun working under it while I was crippling them. I faced and only faced the big hanger on the left first. I had to set my jack in the big anchor tree they were all hung up in. Bring it up to the proper pressure. Then cripple the two smaller snags. Then face the big anchor tree and finish the back cut leaving a strong thick hinge. Then go back to the heavy hanger on the left and execute my back cut to get them all to commit at the same time. As you saw in the video. It worked out great. I've delt with similar windblown entanglements. That have turned for the worse and went south quick, but most of the time. If you pick the puzzle pieces apart in the right order, pay attention and take your time. It normally works out with little to no issues. Its just all part of the game. šŸ¤·
Nice calculated drop.
 
Question for those of you who drive vehicles from this century. Do you use the oil life monitor, or just change based on mileage?

I have a first generation EcoBoost which has known issues with timing chain tensioner and guides so I'm religious about oil changes. I use the oil life monitor and set it to 70% and use full synthetic. I won't mention brand because the "packin heat" thread doesn't need to change to an oil thread! šŸ¤£
Just curious on what others do.
 
Question for those of you who drive vehicles from this century. Do you use the oil life monitor, or just change based on mileage?

I have a first generation EcoBoost which has known issues with timing chain tensioner and guides so I'm religious about oil changes. I use the oil life monitor and set it to 70% and use full synthetic. I won't mention brand because the "packin heat" thread doesn't need to change to an oil thread! šŸ¤£
Just curious on what others do.
The oil life monitoring is time based not mileage based Jeff. At least on Fords. When I got my new 2009 it sat off and on for a few months because I was using my van to haul produce. Only had about 1,000 miles on it and got the change oil now message. Asked my Ford mechanic and he said just reset it. AND Synthetic oil for the win!! :innocent:
 
You don't want to use black locust for indoor building because if it warps, it will take everything else with it.

Outside, it is very rot resistant. It is the ONLY wood that I know of that will last better underground than above ground. It is often used for fence posts and guard rail posts. Farmers would use it more except for the fact that it gets so hard you can not hammer a nail into it.

They also like to use it for bridges on hiking trails. They say it will not last 4-ever, but it will last one day longer than stone!
 
I have been running the Mobil 1 Euro formula full synthetic 0-40 oil in my 2019 2.7ltr eco boosts because I worry about turbos. I change it every 5,000 miles.

My truck will be 5 in April, but only has 28,000 miles on it. However, most of those miles are either hauling wood or going up to the cabin, which requires the shift to 4wd for going up the mountain.

The only complaint I have so far is the back brakes wore out prematurely (IMO). (the front pads were fine). I've since made a habit of disabling the traction control when I go up the mountain (2 mi in on a 4wd rd) and I try not to use the electronic brake. (I've heard these 2 things could be the culprit). I also replace pads on all 4 corners with ceramic pads. So far, so good!
 
Another small fire. Supposed to cool down today and go below freezing for the next week so I may have opportunity to load up the firebox.

This is my flintlock. It was my great grandfather's and is passed to the oldest son of the oldest son. It was made by the tower company and near as I can tell is an India pattern brown bess. It's shorter than the traditional brown bess used in North American wars. The mechanism still works but I have never fired it not will I ever.View attachment 1139598
Nice piece of family history tied in there! It does appear to be an India pattern. Assuming it's the original lock it's the second version circa 1810 or later... It had the ring neck lock vs. the swan neck lock.

A high level description from what I recall from a prior life... there are plenty of nuances: There was a short version of the British "land pattern" musket--known as the Brown Bess--and it was commonly used in the Rev War. It's barrel was nominally 42" compared to the long pattern's 46". Most of the India pattern's were 39" and the gun had 3 ram rod pipes as compared to 4 on the others. The bores were nominally .78 on the earlier Brown Bess but the India patterns were .75. "Tower" refers to the gun being assembled at the Tower of London, though some were assembled elsewhere. Various other names were engraved in the locks over time. The parts were made by contractors using patterns. The guild system was well defined and specialized in those days and workers may have made very few different parts their entire career. The use of patterns allowed for similar parts to be made but by no means were they all interchangeable. Simple things like ram rods could be swapped out but the vast majority of the parts needed fitting. The British stock piled parts and assembled them (i.e., stocked the guns) as needed. This allowed them to avoid price gouging and shortages during times of conflict. In round numbers they made about 6 million land pattern muskets over a 100 year period. Numbers comparable to Winchester's model 94 as I recall.

I did a Google search and found a video on YouTube that goes into a lot of detail. Lots more details than I was aware of from my pre Rev War life. šŸ˜‰

 
You don't want to use black locust for indoor building because if it warps, it will take everything else with it.

Outside, it is very rot resistant. It is the ONLY wood that I know of that will last better underground than above ground. It is often used for fence posts and guard rail posts. Farmers would use it more except for the fact that it gets so hard you can not hammer a nail into it.

They also like to use it for bridges on hiking trails. They say it will not last 4-ever, but it will last one day longer than stone!
Seems to last longer than steel too judging my how quickly it dulls chains. šŸ˜‰
 
Never bother changing oil in anything, just keep adding new oil as the old stuff burns off. More environmentally friendly that way.šŸŒ²
I had a commuter car, a Saturn SL2, that became a burner way too soon. I was putting on 140 miles per day and added a quart of oil every other day... It had 120K on it when I got rid of it and bought a Civic. The Civic only lasted 6 weeks... a tractor trailer took me out on a Thruway ramp. He changed lanes while on the ramp and crushed me between the trailer wheels and guard rail. I got another Civic... My son has it now. It's 15 years old and its got about 200K on it. It still runs strong without burning oil.
 

Latest posts

Back
Top