Scrounging Firewood (and other stuff)

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Huh, I thought Stevens was dead and gone back in the 60's.
Savage bought the name and sells new guns branded as Stevens
They just keep showing up in the bed of my truck…View attachment 1155372
Both good little saws. Both markedly improved with a muffler mod.

The Poulan is strato saw. It is a bit finicky to tune (traditional tuning till it burbles slightly at WOT is not the best way). Modified Mark finally figured it out. First you adjust the high speed down till you find the lean bog. Then you richen it up until you find the rich bog. Set the high speed screw halfway between the lean bog mark and the rich bog mark and that is where the saw will make the most power.

141 is a great little saw.....Poulan made these and there were both Poulan and Husky branded saws of that chassis run from 36cc up to 49cc. Always thought it would be fun to port a 49cc powerhead and drop it into a 36 badged chassis. What I have found with these is the carbs are very problematic with age and the fuel lines seem to decay quickly (not sure if this is a function of cheap OE components or the fact they are so small or both). I can't tell you how many times I had one of these that will run (albeit lean) but adjusting the carb will do very little to tune it...time to swap or rebuild carb.

I probably have a dozen of these saws and 25 bars and 50 plus chains for these saws. Don't ever buy anything besides a carb kit or fuel line for them as I can flat rate you a lifetime of parts and consumables if you need.

Oh and the bar adjuster bolt is small/weak and prone to getting bent from overtightening.
 
Getting a NOS full wrap , new thin rings , should be a runner , things minty , piston and cylinder very good , reed saws rip 👍😆, go good with big brother, lol View attachment 1155535View attachment 1155528View attachment 1155529
I wish the American saw companies would've stuck with pro saws instead of selling the names to make cheap big box store saws. How cool would it to be to have a modern McCullough or Poulan pro saw? I know there's lots of business reasons at play but a guy can dream, right.
 
I wish the American saw companies would've stuck with pro saws instead of selling the names to make cheap big box store saws. How cool would it to be to have a modern McCullough or Poulan pro saw? I know there's lots of business reasons at play but a guy can dream, right.
There’s nothing that can replace the good old grunt of those saws , 👍 all ya can do is keep the old school gems running good ,
 
I wish the American saw companies would've stuck with pro saws instead of selling the names to make cheap big box store saws. How cool would it to be to have a modern McCullough or Poulan pro saw? I know there's lots of business reasons at play but a guy can dream, right.
Agreed, it is a shame they did not stay in business. From what I could tell their demise was because they did not keep up with Swedish and German improvements and chose to try and revamp older saw models rather than starting from scratch with a new model. For instance, a Pro Mac 610 (aka Mccinderblock) didn't stand a chance against a 2 series Husky or "oh" series Stihls of the 80's and early 90's. Then Husqvarna's parent company bought up all of the defunct old names and turned them all into rebadged Poulan homeowner saws.


Has anyone heard anything about @Sierra_rider? He hasn't posted since sometime in December.
No, always concerning when a regular disappears. Maybe send him a PM?
 
And, run it extra rich 😃
Well I removed the limiters . What would be a basic adjustment prior to starting the saw? I used a piece of wire to push down on the limiter to get the adjuster screw out . I know on my car carbs the initial is to lightly seat the adjuster then back off 3 turns IMG_7857.jpeg. Also the screw head doesn’t offer much of a shoulder for the spring . Should I just file the stops off and put them back ?IMG_7856.jpeg
 
Well I removed the limiters . What would be a basic adjustment prior to starting the saw? I used a piece of wire to push down on the limiter to get the adjuster screw out . I know on my car carbs the initial is to lightly seat the adjuster then back off 3 turns View attachment 1155574. Also the screw head doesn’t offer much of a shoulder for the spring . Should I just file the stops off and put them back ?View attachment 1155573
I have always heard that 1 turn out for low speed and 1 1/2 for high is a good place to start.

I would toss those little caps.
 
It's not just chainsaws that can get you... Another one of my associates just got whacked due to kick back on a table saw... Unfortunately, I steadily hear about table saw, nail gun, and chainsaw accidents in my circles (plus myriad other relatively minor mishaps). All it takes is a moment of inattention, a trip, or an unexpected material reaction and you get hurt. Be safe out there.

1708537037651.png
 
It's not just chainsaws that can get you... Another one of my associates just got whacked due to kick back on a table saw... Unfortunately, I steadily hear about table saw, nail gun, and chainsaw accidents in my circles (plus myriad other relatively minor mishaps). All it takes is a moment of inattention, a trip, or an unexpected material reaction and you get hurt. Be safe out there.

View attachment 1155577
Jeeeze a little warning first
 
Playing out on the woods today blowing chips all over my road pissed me right off. I was using my tractor mounted chipper throwing in all the left behind branches from my clearing project. I blew two belts on a 5" piece of wood. That left me with 2 still working. When I bought this chipper recently. I was told that the belts were recently replaced. Yup, they were fairly new looking. The problem is that who ever changed them put in standard belts instead of Kevlar belts. Now I have to wait for my new matched set of Kevlar belts to arrive. I considered going with a banded belt. There are no numbers on the pulleys to verify if I could run a branded belt on them. The banded belts last the longest thanks to the reinforced band. Oh well, shat happens.
 

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