Stihl 026 project saw(s)

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"He took the cylinder and cleaned it up with sandpaper to get the aluminum off the cylinder and said it looks great. I've ordered a new 44mm stihl oem piston/rings for it from ebay. The base gasket is in great shape, but do we need to replace it anyway? Anything else we need to do while it is in pieces?"

to which you posted

Nice edit lake......



but you said not to use sandpaper because it "leaves a less than desirable surface"....and you have not stated how the surface is "less than desirable"
 
I did after you started pestering me... and tried to tell me Aluminum oxide can't scratch chrome... sure...

RVR...
 
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There is nothing wrong with doing SANDPAPER by hand.....you just need to stay away from the ports.....even more so with either flap wheel or dingle ball power honing.
Acid is also a very chancy practice in novice use
 
OK.....one more time........SANDPAPER IS SOFTER THAN THE PLATING

there is no cross hatch

I seem to be speaking to a wall here
 
The dents you make that look like a nice cross hatch go away almost immediately when you run the engine.....ALL plated cylinders look shiny and glazed and you do not need to remove any glaze nor cross hatch is because you can't and it does not do anything the plating holds oil in its structure is spaces too small to see with the naked eye
 
I disagree...

and now you admit I can leave cute little dents and a cross hatch with aluminum oxide??? hmmm



I need to watch CSI.. see you tomorrow...
 
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Ok.......here we go. The cylinder is in great shape, nice crosshatch put in it from sandpaper. Maybe not as good as a ball hone would do but good enough for me. I got a new piston and base gasket to put back it back together.

Problem is the saw is in parts........I didn't take it apart and have not taken any saw apart this far down. I need some guidance on reassembling........exploded parts diagram would be great. Is there a step-by-step reassembly that someone has? Like do this before that otherwise you will have to take it back apart? Are there photos? It looks to also need a complete fuel line.......apparently robbed from it at some time. What about the torque for the cylinder bolts? Locktite here? Any and all help is greatly appreciated. I used the search function and did not turn up what I was looking for.

Waylan
 
Send me a PM with your e-mail and I'll send you the IPL when I get home from work.
 
who said it was alumium oxide? there's about 10 different types in my workshop...

and.... I've seen many cylinders scratched to crap with paper... try some...


and... Soft paper will leave the alluminum in the valleys... it the ridge to valley ratio that's important. A ball hone will restore that....

So 320 grit wet-or-dry is not the way to go, huh? :mad: That is good to know.
How do you know when the jug has been honed too many times? When there is, say, .003 or .004" piston to cylinder clearance?
 
As an aside, SiC (silicon carbide) is 9.25 on the Mohs hardness scale.(diamond is 10) It was the hardest man made substance until 1929 (boron carbide) Nikasil is not even measured on the Mohs scale. It is measured on the rockwell "C" scale, at 64-68, close to M2 tool steel. which is less than 7 on the Mohs scale. SiC will cut Nikasil and hard chrome, but does so slowly, due to their toughness. To state in such an aggressive manner that SiC won't cut Nikasil, or hard chrome, without even checking first, makes you seem very authoritative.
 
There are many forms of "sandpaper", and one of them being sand coated
paper. But other than that I have seen a lot of different types of sand paper scratch chrome. I even have some diamond coated sandpaper which cuts it quick, but the carbide paper also scratches it. I believe the proper way to clean a cylinder up is with a hone.
 

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