Old Stihl 026 "skewed"?

[mrfileio]

Hello, I have late '80s early '90s Stihl 026 that has recently started over oiling. I'm trying
a couple of things to resolve this issue and may follow up in a future post.

The purpose of this post, however, is to inquire about the "skew" I just noticed after owning
this saw since it was new. Here is a pic from the bottom of the 026;

View attachment KIMG0225.JPG


Notice the bushing in back but not in the front. The front of the case is closed, however, making it look like it was designed like this.

In contrast, here is a pic of the bottom of my mid-90's 036:

View attachment KIMG0226.JPG

So is this normal for an early generation 026?

Thanks, Chris

 

[ZeroJunk]

You can buy that buffer. Most any Stihl stocking dealer should have them.

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Replace them. Almost the same poulan used too. Rubber antivibes buffers etc.

 

[Mad Professor]

Most likely the outlet hose from the pump is shot if the pump is OK. Use the OEM Stihl kit and don't forget the spring that goes inside the hose. PITA to install until you've done a few. The kit has enough hose to do 2 saws, if you mess up the first time.......

Your AV buffers are toast.

Check your intake boot and impulse line, bad AV buffers can result in damaging those.

 

[mrfileio]

Dang, you guys are good. See my note about over oiling in the opening sentence. I ordered a new intake hose and thought that would fix that. I'm glad I inquired about my "skew". It looks like the especially the front but probably both AV buffers are bad. This presumably led to the oiler intake fitting not seating properly in the in the intake hose orifice.

I'll replace the AV buffers them as well as the intake hose and check back in. I'll also check the outlet hose but somehow it seems to be ok. Thanks for the input. More to come.

 

[SteveSr]

Dang, you guys are good. See my note about over oiling in the opening sentence. I ordered a new intake hose and thought that would fix that. I'm glad I inquired about my "skew". It looks like the especially the front but probably both AV buffers are bad. This presumably led to the oiler intake fitting not seating properly in the in the intake hose orifice.

I'll replace the AV buffers them as well as the intake hose and check back in. I'll also check the outlet hose but somehow it seems to be ok. Thanks for the input. More to come.

you are in for a tank removal tear down to replace the buffers. They fail after marinating in bar oil for 2-3 decades. While you are in there replace the impulse hose and carefully inspect/replace the rubber intake boot.

The oiler intake / outlet doesn't move with the buffers so your issue is elsewhere. The earlier 024/026s had fixed oilers that oiled whenever the engine was turning and these tend to over oil if you let them idle too much. The 026 Pro, introduced in 1996, had an adjustable chain/clutch driven oiler.

The 026 oiler outlet hose did not use an internal spring as the line wasn't likely to kink. I have successfully used Stihl fuel line for replacing the outlet hose.

 

[mrfileio]

I'm pretty sure mine is an earlier model and thus fixed based on this pic of my oiler/worm drive:

View attachment KIMG0228.JPG

I'm cool with that because I don't let it idle too much. It's just leaking like crazy at all times at this point.

I look forward to a "removal tank tear down". I'll search for a reference.

Where's are the "impulse hose" and "intake boot"? Fuel tank? Chain oil tank?

Thanks again.

 

[Aknutter]

There is a request for manuals thread. If needed request a parts list and service manual if you don't have

 

[SteveSr]

I'm pretty sure mine is an earlier model and thus fixed based on this pic of my oiler/worm drive:

View attachment 1156531

That is the REAL old style oil pump. Crud in the pump can result in reduced oil flow and leakage through the pump. I don't know if this one can be disassembled and cleaned or not. The newer adjustable ones can ... with some effort. Now that it is clean let it set and see where it leaks.

 

[stihltech]

Clean it all up before doing anything. Then you can see where the issues are before firing the parts cannon.
But as for buffers, just replace them. It is time. They made 20 to 30 years.

 

[mrfileio]

Yep, with all that bar oil and saw dust, it's pretty cruddy. I saw in another post that carb cleaner was ok to use. Do
you concur with that stihltech?

 

[ZeroJunk]

I have an 026 frankensaw that oils all the time. Takes some getting used to.

I use Gunk engine cleaner myself for oil crud removal, what it was made for.

Starter fluid works OK for some cleaning.

Everybody has their own ideas about it.

 

[Chevboy0167]

Water based air conditioner condenser cleaner diluted with warm water in a spray bottle.

Just gotta make sure it rated aluminum safe for micro channel coils and the like. Some stuff out there is pretty aggressive so dilute, spray on, let soak then rinse/wipe off.

Might want to test on plastics on the underside to see if it will dull or attack it.

I have used this brand in automotive applications with good results, but a bit pricey! Should last a long while to!

https://www.amazon.com/Refrigeratio...2470954011&rps=1&sprefix=conde,aps,128&sr=8-5

 

[RedneckChainsawRepair]

Yep, with all that bar oil and saw dust, it's pretty cruddy. I saw in another post that carb cleaner was ok to use. Do
you concur with that stihltech?

This is the only cleaner I found safe for aluminum and plastics.

 

[ZeroJunk]

In reality , you have solvents and detergents AKA, surface detention reducers or surfactants .

Put whatever name on it that they can get money out of your pocket.

BTW, I was the rep for CRC for years. Sort of know what the options are.

 

[stihltech]

Brake clean and purple power are what I use. Most anything That removes grease and oil.

 

[Sloughfoot]

Super Clean

 

[Mad Professor]

In reality , you have solvents and detergents AKA, surface detention reducers or surfactants .

Put whatever name on it that they can get money out of your pocket.

BTW, I was the rep for CRC for years. Sort of know what the options are.

The low cost option: diesel fuel followed with dish detergent.

 

[bwalker]

Super Clean

I had Castrol Super Clean discolor bare aluminum and magnesium parts years ago FWIW.
I switched to simple green forehead same use and never had issue. Although SG is less aggressive as a cleaner.

 

[ZeroJunk]

The low cost option: diesel fuel followed with dish detergent.

That will work. Solvent and a surfactant.