Frustrated with Stihl Bar oil flow

Is there any way to increase bar oil flow on my 029 and 046? Besides the flow adjuster itself? I run both saws with it max out. Is there a oil restricter in the system that can be drill slightly bigger? Or is the pump itself to small?

I have always thought the oil flow was marginal at best in both of these saws since new. I run a 24" on the 046 most of the time. The 32" bar does not seem to get enough oil with everything clean.

I find myself pulling the bar off about every tank of gas or LESS to clean the bar hole and slot with 029 and 046 saws. If I don't, bar goes almost dry. Compared this to my Echo saws I can run all day and only have to add gas and oil.

I own or had the following Stihls: MS200T, 024, 026, 028, 032, 039, 064, 066, and 084.

The only one that seems to be a good oiler is the MS200T. The 084 has a manual pump for additional oiling and if you use it, it is OK. All the others suck. That, plus the fact that Stihl does not allow their dealers to sell parts mail order and I refuse to buy from the jerk that represents Stihl here, is the reason I have switched over to Husqvarna and will only keep the MS200T (I have four of them) and the 084. I currently have the 346XP and 372XP. Both are good oilers and the air filter stays cleaner a lot longer than the Stihls. I will pick up a bigger Husky to replace the 066 soon.

Mine Too !!!

My 028 Super has the same issues... slow oil lube. Is there maybe a screen or some type of filter that can be replaced or cleaned... I don't know.

Would it hurt to cut the stihl bar oil with kerosene in the winter to hasten the flow ?

The 029 and the 046 both have adjustable oilers. Are they turn up all the way? For cold weather operation, you can cut your bar oil 3 to 1 with with kerosene or diesel. The 028 is not adjustable but, I think they had a pump piston with a more radical cam. It probably wouldn't be worth the cost to replace it.

Grande Dog
Master Mechanic
Discount Arborist Equipment and Tree Care Supplies

There has been talk in the past that Stihl is cutting back their oil flow on the newer saws. The Echo CS-670 is a different breed all together. Opened all the way up the oiler puts out so much oil that it runs down the sides of the bar. This is not in wood. The saw also has a manual override.


I can't figure out why the Echo oils so well and the current offerings from Stihl suck! Go figure!!!

Rish I will give you a little hint Husy. The few Stihls that I own compared the the Husy's are lagging in the oiling dept.

Marky Mark said:

Rish I will give you a little hint Husy. The few Stihls that I own compared the the Husy's are lagging in the oiling dept.

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Huh???

The manual override is a feature I liked on the older saws. Wasn't aware Echo still uses it.Any others still use it?

250 and 290

I had a 250 that oiled very little, threw sparks all of the time. Took to the dealer and he said thats the way they are. It was just the opposite with fuel mix. It flooded literally half the time on cold starts. Dealer told me I didn't know how to start the saw. Traded for a 290, it oiled ok, not too many sparks, but you never actually saw any oil on the chain. It to flooded sometimes at start. Presently have a 372XP, similar physical size and weight to the 290. Albeit more money, but it has a satisfyingly strong engine, can oil as much as you want, filter seems to never see a chip of wood, and even I can start it easily everytime!

Bottom line is, the oiling system just plain sucks!

"The 029 and the 046 both have adjustable oilers. Are they turn up all the way?"

Yes, I have always had the oil flow set to high since on the 029,046 since I bought them new. Below about 45 F deg I have been adding some kerosene around 25%. Should I try adding some at warmer temperatures.

What gets me is my Echo 510 and 670 saws never need the kerosene even when it is 30 deg. I don't even run the Echo saws with the oiler turned all the way up.

"The manual override is a feature I liked on the older saws. Wasn't aware Echo still uses it.Any others still use it?"

Just the Echo 670 and 8000 saws use a manual override. My 510 does not have one. I rarely use it on my 670 because the Echo saws really put out the oil.

Echo and Dolmar seem to be the oiling champs. The oil tank on my old Dolmar 120si is huge and you still hav ethe option of turning the oiler up to a point that it will empty the oil tank faster than the fuel tank (Certainly not necessary or desirable for m\normal cutting but the operator gets to choose the amount of oil output) My Huskies have always oiled adequately-just not to the gushing well output of the Dolmar. My Poulan Pros are fine . My solo is fine. My Alpina oils fine(and the option to adjust while running is cool). My Stihls are Split-the old 011AVT oils pretty well but the 019T has been a pain-It oils adequately- sometimes--barely. I own no large Stihls but I did maintain 11 044s on a thinning contract I ran a few years ago. They were okay then for running a 20 inch bar in small green wood. The truth is that it doesn't take nearly as much oil as most of us like to see-but Operators preference is nice.

I own a stihl ms 290 with an adjustable oiler thats never has seen anything but full out. When doing heavy cutting/bucking the chain is almost dry It uses the oil for sure but it seems almost dry. When limbing and oter small work the chain is properly oiled. Guess it just cant keep up under a long strain!

The displacement of most Stihl oil pumps is easily increased with a little time and NO PARTS. It will take a bit of time to remove the piston and make the flat area a bit bigger. This mod makes every revolution of the piston pump more oil. Just don't get too carried away, a little goes a long way.

rahtreelimbs said:

Opened all the way up the [Echo] oiler puts out so much oil that it runs down the sides of the bar. This is not in wood. The saw also has a manual override.

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If I rev my Stihls up out of the wood they'll make oil run down the sides of the bar too, and I ain't never done nothin' to 'em.  To hear all the talk and then look at what I've got, I must have some extraordinary examples.

Maybe it <i>is</i> mostly operator expectations.&nbsp; In my opinion, as long as the bar doesn't get too warm to touch and the drivers have an oil film when they enter the drive sprocket after a bar-buried cut, I can't imagine <i>wanting</i> any more oil being pumped.

Glen

Can you explain in a little more detail the best way to do this? Ive got a stihl that could use a little more oil. thanks

I'm not being a smartazz here but, I need to know if you can get the oil pump apart and back together? If so take the pump apart and look at the "piston" which isn't really a piston but more of a rotary pump. Ther is a flat spot on the 'piston' , make it a little deeper and the pump will flow more oil.

I recall many years ago going to a Stihl dealer conferance and raising this point on adding manual over ride pumps on there range of farm and pro saws and was made feel very unloved for raising this great point without it you have no chose but if it's there a pump here and there with save both bar and chain.
I think that during my time working for Allag Services of Maitland we became the only town or suburb to have two dealers in one locallity, if you can't beat them join them and beat them i did.
It was kinda nice to have that second range of Stihl just in case i couldn't sell them a Mc.

Bob Cornwell...........Australia.

Thanks a bunch for the replies and information.

sedanman, I got access to a machine shop any idea on how deep to start with. Would .015 deep be to much to little?

I have done a few with a Dremel tool. I 'eyeballed' it.