Frustrated with Stihl Bar oil flow

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I had the same problem on the 361. If you look up "Stihl 361 Problems", you'll get a detailed description. Basically, w/it clean and the oiler turned up ALL the way, it would still look like Independance Day at the local mall. However, this only was apparent around dusk-dark. The only difference between hard and soft woods was that hard threw more sparks.

Yes, the bar would get too warm to touch many times and the drivers didn't have a film of oil on them by the time they got to the sweet spot under the bar. This was with the recommended 20" bar. The distributer that I talked to said this was normal. My question is this: "Is what is considered normal by the ones selling the product the correct amount of flow that is needed for long chain and bar life, OR is it what they call in industry, "planned obsolecence?" I don't know. (For those not familiar w/the term, "Planned Obsolesence" is defined as the lifespan of a part, or product will normally become obsolete, worn out by a time defined by the company under normal use. Companies give a certain lifespan to their products in order to maximize their bottom line, so that the consumer must by parts products and services from the company.) I guess the only scientific way to deturmine this is to put comparable saws, chains, and bar combinations side by side; one new Stihl and others by various companies in the same wood. Chain stretch and bar wear could be easily measured. I doubt if consumer reports would try this. Any volunteers? I'll volunteer and publish the results if someone will donate the equiptment. :)
I've used friends Stihls (albeit shorter than 20" bars) at jobs in the same wood and noticed that their older Stihls oilers put out more. Which leads me to my next point.

Another thing is that I was told by a company tech that the newer Stihls HAVE recently cut back on their oiler output due to new gvt regulations. This might be why our friend Glen and others haven't noticed any problems yet. The small engine restrictions are rachetting tighter and tighter, esp for two cycles. Maybe they factor in bar oil with each unit?.....Just a guess. Someone told me that they thought that bar oils were vegetable based instead of petrolium based. Does anyone know if there is truth to that? If that's true, then I don't see why the hoopla about enviro-friendly oilers.

FYI, the weeping willow that I used the 361 in was mostly green. It didn't flare up very much like the hard woods.

BTW I don't care if their saws put off sparks as long as:

1. They are NOT posing a fire hazard.
2. The bars and chains wear at the same pace as those that put out more oil.

Hope this helps. If this is truely a problem, then maybe one of us can (or has, ie. Sedanman's fine post), come up with a solution that the company wasn't able to accomplish.
 
Noah, I agree with what you are saying.

I know to well what you are taking about. And you are right the sparks are worse in hardwood. For me Maple has been the worst. And the longer the bar the worse the problem is. I have had my 24" and 32" bar on the 046 extremely hot (well beyond touching the bar) when cutting Maple even with good sharp chains. I have always like Stihl saws and have had good luck with them in the past but I won't be buying anymore because of this time consuming issue. Stopping to clean the bar and oil hole out many times before a tank of gas is consumed is beyond silly in my book. They did not used to oil this crappy in the past. Many times I have cut with my Stihl and have had flashbacks of old logging pictures, where the 2 man saw teams had 1 guy dumping kerosene on the bar when cutting.

As far as " I was told by a company tech that the newer Stihls HAVE recently cut back on their oiler output due to new gvt regulations." I heard that one also. My response was If Echo and Husky can oil a saw chain why can't Stihl.

I going to try the oil modification that sedanman posted on my 029 1st and see what happens maybe in the long run it will save me time and money. Just wished I did not have to spend more time working on the saws. Especially considering the money I paid for my 046.
 
sedanman said:
The displacement of most Stihl oil pumps is easily increased with a little time and NO PARTS. It will take a bit of time to remove the piston and make the flat area a bit bigger. This mod makes every revolution of the piston pump more oil. Just don't get too carried away, a little goes a long way.

do you have any photos of what you discribing?
 
Premix,

I know what you mean. It wouldn't be as much an issue, if it were a cheap WalFart special. But when you spend the $, I think you are right to expect this feature to stihl work as well as the older ones. I'd like to get a new 361 to replace the lemon that I took back, but am seriously considering a used last generation model. One problem is that internet, private, and pawn shop sells don't have the warantee, and it sounds like neither one of us have the time to spend fixing everything from the car to the house to the saw. The dealers have the warantee, you just have to find one that has a good reputation and will honor it if needed. Most are good from what I hear. Don't know if the newer versions of the models that have been around have the lower flow oiler. Anybody have the scoop on the current crop: The ones with the zeros following the model #s ?

If you end up taking it apart and taking that piston down, post here, or leave me a message and let me know how it went.

Best regards
 
It makes sense that they are cutting The oil back, if you use 1 gallon of bar oil in a day of hard cutting that is petroleum based, that would be like dumping a gallon of waste oil on the ground. Everyone knows that is bad. That is probably worse than the two stoke burning oil. I have seen ads for a new Stihl brand vegtebale based bar oil, but dont belive that regular oil is. If this vegtable stuff works than maybe they will let the oil fly once again
 
Stopping to clean the bar and oil hole out many times before a tank of gas is consumed is beyond silly in my book
My Poulan 3400 would actually quit turning the chain due to no oil flow from the bar getting plugged, and this after a weekly saw cleaning. I even had to go down the bar rails (inside) and cleanout shavings. I just bought another gallon of Walmart bar and chain oil, and it almost gone. What should I start using in it's place or does it matter since it is 100% petroleum based and no sythenic? Once the oiler hole is cleaned out she will run just fine for while, but defintely not having to stop during a tank full, just every few.
 
Oldwild. It sounds like you may have a couple of things happening to clog the oil hole and pack the bar. Likely culprit number one: Dull chain. If the cutters aren't sharp they create smaller chips generate more, heat stretch the chain faster, and capture more of those little ragged chips inthe bar groove. Likely culprit number 2: Worn drive links. The little hook at the front of each driver is there to catch and carry debris out of the groove. If they are worn they don't do that as well-which gives culprit number one more opportunity to wreak havoc.
 
all the chains for my 3400, 18" chain were used. Except 1. I have been trying to sharpen my own chains, but felt something wasn't right, so bought a Granberg rig. Haven't had time to set it up and use it, but I feel it will help big time! Plus too much tension does not help on the chain, as have learned in this post. I do know I will need new sprockets for the John Deere 60V and the Poulan 3400. Have not done enough with the Homey 330 and 360 yet to even worry about the sprockets yet. Does anyone have good numbers for these 2 as of after this winter they will need sprockets.
 
029 back in 1996 had same issue - lack of oil w/ adj. all the way up (didn't matter if it was hot or cold out), 034 was a little bit better but still could burn up chians and abr if not careful. My 036 pro is doing ok...haven't had a chance to spend enough time with it yet to see if this is something i will find out with this saw too. My 365 husky - no such issues and the 372 i had prior to throwing the conn. rod had no issues with the oiling. Good point Stumper about the drive links and the cutters not being sharp. I have seen both of these items do exactly that.

John
 
njforestfire said:
029 back in 1996 had same issue - lack of oil w/ adj. all the way up (didn't matter if it was hot or cold out), 034 was a little bit better but still could burn up chians and abr if not careful.

John
From what I'm being told Stihl started gradually cutting back on bar oil feed around 1995. So the issues with 1996 029 would sound about right. My 029 was bought new in 1999. Its been a problem since day one. I had to put a new bar on it last spring.
 

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