031 Ignition Problems

Hey guys, Newbie here at this site.

I've got five 031's that have various problems. I got them about 6-8 years ago at an auction. I had one 031 that I just loved, and thought more's better. Then I found out that most of the ignition parts for these saws are obsolete. I read through a few of the posts on this forum and learned alot about the saw, but most of the posts were a few years old. What I need to know is can coils still be gotten for these saws, how do you test a coil, and how do the modules know when to fire, and can the modules still be gotten. Basically, most of my saws have no fire for one reason or another. Where can I buy a new set of points and condenser reasonably priced? I think I may have given too much for these saws.

Jim

031 coil

Jim , read this http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=23938

Be careful with 031's when changing from points to electronic. EITHER, you need a flywheel from the electronic version, OR, you take out the key and position the flywheel in the position the electronic flywheel would have been positioned. You don't need the key for anti-rotation - that's achieved by the taper which must be throughly degreased and torqued down to the correct value.

If you don't do this, they will run, but at full power (for a while) the muffler will start to glow cherry red...

Modules fire based on the rise in voltage from the coil as it approaches TDC. Very simple, which is why they are so cheap.

BTW, you can still get parts for the 031 ignition, but a Condensor (common problem) is over $25 list and a pain to replace.

I can put you in contact with a guy that has coils (unlikely cause of your problems). Send me a PM.

Atom brown module with the wires reversed works

Coil Testing

Jim , another thread http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=21518

Thanks for all the help guys. What is the best route to go? If I have a good coil, stay with points & condenser, or go with the replacement electronic modules? Do the modules last as long as the points/condenser set-up? Where can I get either of these set-ups??

The one I am working on now has fire on a new plug when it's outside the head. If I thread the plug into the head, I cannot get the saw to fire. I rigged up a drill to a 19mm socket which fits the hex on the chain drive side and spin the crank to test for fire with the plug out. Too much compression to try to start the saw that way. If I put the saw together enough to be able to pull on the rope start, pour gas in the cylinder, and try to start it, I don't even get the slightest hint of it wanting to start.

What do I do next??

Jim

Testing for spark

Jim , read this thread http://www.arboristsite.com/showthread.php?t=22504

I have an 031 electronic that the module went out on. I got an aftermarket module and it has worked fine since. Do an internet search on Atom module. If I remember right they make different "color" modules for different applications. My application was to replace an electronic module. Seems like one of the colors is for converting a points to electronic. Personally never done the conversion, but if anyone has I would be interested in their opinion.
-Bob
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031
015
Pioneer 2270
Timberman consumer saw (don't buy one)
Mac consumer saw (don't buy one)

Atom Brown with wires reversed per instructions that came with said module is what works and it works fine, biggest pain is finding a spot on the saw to stash it. Mine ended up behind the fuel tank to the rear of the flywheel

Bob E said:

I have an 031 electronic that the module went out on. I got an aftermarket module and it has worked fine since. Do an internet search on Atom module. If I remember right they make different "color" modules for different applications. My application was to replace an electronic module. Seems like one of the colors is for converting a points to electronic. Personally never done the conversion, but if anyone has I would be interested in their opinion.
-Bob
-------------
031
015
Pioneer 2270
Timberman consumer saw (don't buy one)
Mac consumer saw (don't buy one)

Click to expand...

You had the right flywheel so the conversion is dead simple (just subsituting for the stihl module). Everyone else with points doesn't... See my earlier post.

Thanks A Million!!

How could I have known yesterday when I joined this forum that I would have the answer to my problems inside of 24 hrs. Thanks to everyone who took the time to try to understand the problem I was having and post informative responses. Scottr, your last direction to another thread covering the very problem I was experiencing was priceless!! In the thread, a gentleman by the name of Lewis Brander suggested that he had the same problem and "for $hits & giggles", I quote, decided to narrow the gap on his plug from .025" to .015". He pulled the rope and it fired right up.

I had the exact same thing happen!!! I had to adjust the carb due to the fact that I had just rebuilt it a few days ago thinking that it was the problem, and I must confess that the diaphragm inside the carb didn't look all that bad. I guess I should've followed my instincts that there was nothing wrong with the carb. Anyway, once I got the carb set, the saw ran great!! I haven't taken the plug back out and reset the gap yet, but it did run great with a .015" gap setting. I will set it back to .025" this weekend and stick it in some wood to see what kind of performance I get.

Thanks to all, especially Scottr & Lewis Brander for your great insight and willingness to share your knowledge and experience!! You made my day, hell, maybe my week!!

Jim

Lakeside
Thanks. I realize that the flywheels for points and electronic igition saws are keyed different, but I thought that Atom made different modules (brown, orange, green and some others) that are designed for different applications. I thought I had read somewhere that one of the modules was for converting a points flywheel saw to electronic ignition. For some reason I was under the impression that the electronic module compensated for the difference in timing that the points style flywheel has so that you don't have to rotate the flywheel on the crank (if you pick the right module). Sounds like that's not the case and the "points conversion module" still requires that you rotate the flywheel, huh?

No modules in my saw. I kept the points/condenser set-up for now. I just cleaned the points and brought the gap closer on the plug. I'll look into the chips if I continue to have problems.

Thanks for all the help.

Jim