026 Pro questions...

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Zig

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First and foremost, thanks to everyone that's posted, I'm getting better at tinkering. All the info posted has gotten me this far and I'm not stoppin' anytime soon, so thanks for the inspiration. I've got an older(half metal) 026Pro, with the adj. oiler, and have hopefully gotten to the point of getting it back together...long story short: cracked intake boot, leaking flywheel side seal, leaking decomp. valve(tried cleaning it, not gonna drill it, just replaced it) all fixed by me. Couple of questions I've got;
1)I don't think I had one when I took my clutch off, but my manual and parts list aren't very clear on if the cover washer(1121 162 1001) is on every model, but I assume I need it because otherwise the clutch would be in direct contact with the worm gear and I'd imagine that'd tear it up quickly. So do I need it?
2) How do I tell when a needle bearing is toast? I just cleaned mine, because it didn't look too worn and they roll!
3)Should I loctite every screw that goes into the body of the saw? Also, all I've got is the stick & seal(solvent resistant) and the manual lists different types with different number designations. Is this important?
Thank you all, a billion times over!
 
1. yes you need that washer

2. the bearings are cheap...nuff said

3. Lok-tite is not necceasary on every fastener...but if you do, DONT use the purple...:laugh:
 
Damn!!!

I knew my celebrating was premature! Thanks for the lightning reply, and one more for ya, if you don't mind. Should I replace the plastic on the worm, because I was really careful to lay out everything I took apart and separated, and the must have been in full contact, with the back of the clutch. Other stuff was missing before I took it apart, like the exhaust gasket/seal, and a few av screws...thank you for the schoolin!
 
Read Carefully...

I'm pretty sure, yep, I did, put half metal. The handle is of course plastic...and if you're just asking just to ask...get your own post! Kidding!:laugh:
 
Zig said:
I knew my celebrating was premature! Thanks for the lightning reply, and one more for ya, if you don't mind. Should I replace the plastic on the worm, because I was really careful to lay out everything I took apart and separated, and the must have been in full contact, with the back of the clutch. Other stuff was missing before I took it apart, like the exhaust gasket/seal, and a few av screws...thank you for the schoolin!
Click to expand...

just get a whole worm gear assembly...cheap money...
 
himiler said:
Permatex also makes a sealer/loctite style threadlocker for high heat situations. I haven't used it yet, but I'm believing it would be good for things threaded that would be exposed to the cylinder/exhaust temps. It doesn't say you can't take things back apart. I'd be interested in feedback.
Steve

http://www.permatex.com/products/Au..._Permatex_High_Temperature_Thread_Sealant.htm
Click to expand...

Haven't used it. Normally use permatex blue stick for the cylinder bolts. Haven't run my saws long enough to recheck tightness as of yet. Hope you have more wood in Wylie than there is in Plano.
 
Mo' 026 Pro

So, pressure and vac tested the sucker today, after all my parts have come in and it was ok. Yippe...maybe not. Decided to throw some mix in her for the real test, and as I adjusted the carb, gas started trickling out of the old school(porus pumice looking inner, platic cylinder shaped outer cap with a flange running down the lenght of it) tank vent. I can deal with that, as long as it's starts, I tell myself. Please start? Full choke, alright, third pull! Half, a little lag, then she sprung to life! The real test, open, and idle(the whole reason I broke her down, wouldn't idle)after a good thirty seconds of throttling it, and not improvement, she dies! Same :censored: problem! No!!! My piston rings are fine, but when I stick a long flat head screw driver through the exhaust hole, and jiggle the piston, there's noticeable left to right play but no up and down. I know there should be a little, but I don't have anything to measure that gap! Would that be what's causing the noticable metallic pinging, when it's running? I might not be used to the sound, being that all my other Stihl's(021, 192T, 390 etc.) don't sound like that! Even my 041 has a smoother sound! It's not my clutch, because it's almost new looking. There is a small amount of scoring on the piston, exhaust side, and three ballpoint pen sized divots in the jug, intake side, but it's not nearly as bad as the pic's I've seen. What's the verdict? Did I screw up royally(even though I vac&pres. tested) by not breaking it down all the way?
 
I forgot to mention...

New; WB-194, flywheel side seal, impulse, gas line & filter, intake boot, decomp valve and boot, muffler gasket, av buffers, screws.... new...I think that's it, oh, modded the muffler(2 more holes same size as the first) and I may have been overexaggerating with the "041av doesn't even sound that bad" because if I really think about it(can't start it up now, it's 10pm) the 041av does have a similar metallic sound, but THIS saw sounds almost as if I've got water in the gas(don't) or like I'm using low octane and no mix(no way!). I don't know though...
 
Last edited:
OK let's see... What was the piston like before you tore it down? Was it seized? If so did you replace it? I wondering if these marks where there before tearing it down.

On your carb where are your adjustment screws at (H and L)? If you modded the muffler then you need to richen up the H side. Maybe 1/8 - 1/4 more.
 
Did the piston still have the machine marks like new ones have? If not where is it worn?

If not again (sign of wear) , did you check P/C clearance with a mic/snap gauge (better) or a feeler gauge at the skirt?

I'm assuming this P/C has not been seized in the past ......

P.S. Bcorradi has OEM Stihl/Mahle P/C kits for 85 $ delivered to your door. Piston rings pin and cylinder.........Brad is a great guy to deal with
 
Last edited:
Zig said:
So, pressure and vac tested the sucker today, after all my parts have come in and it was ok. Yippe...maybe not. Decided to throw some mix in her for the real test, and as I adjusted the carb, gas started trickling out of the old school(porus pumice looking inner, platic cylinder shaped outer cap with a flange running down the lenght of it) tank vent. I can deal with that, as long as it's starts, I tell myself. Please start? Full choke, alright, third pull! Half, a little lag, then she sprung to life! The real test, open, and idle(the whole reason I broke her down, wouldn't idle)after a good thirty seconds of throttling it, and not improvement, she dies! Same :censored: problem! No!!! My piston rings are fine, but when I stick a long flat head screw driver through the exhaust hole, and jiggle the piston, there's noticeable left to right play but no up and down. I know there should be a little, but I don't have anything to measure that gap! Would that be what's causing the noticable metallic pinging, when it's running? I might not be used to the sound, being that all my other Stihl's(021, 192T, 390 etc.) don't sound like that! Even my 041 has a smoother sound! It's not my clutch, because it's almost new looking. There is a small amount of scoring on the piston, exhaust side, and three ballpoint pen sized divots in the jug, intake side, but it's not nearly as bad as the pic's I've seen. What's the verdict? Did I screw up royally(even though I vac&pres. tested) by not breaking it down all the way?
Click to expand...

Since you muffler modded the saw you're going to have to tune the carb to compensate for it. Begin with the H and L screws 1 full turn out, then adjust from there. The pinging sound you hear is probably the clutch springs. It's pretty common on the 026's. They are a very cheap and easy fix. If you've had the clutch off, then you know how to remove it. You can use a small pick hook to lift them off one side and put the new ones on.

As for the carb it sounds like you need to recheck it. Is it new? I don't recall you saying. If not it's easy to take apart and clean. Remove the screen and make sure you can see clear through the passage way. Otherwise keep us posted. Thanks
 
Answers

Madhatte, I got it, and lmao, when I read it last nite!
I'm going to try and answer everybody's questions, so here goes...
1) Bought the saw, used, from a pawnshop. What sold it was its immaculate clean condition, and ran ok(wouldn't idle, so I got it for a lil less).
2) Looks like the original factory piston and cylinder, there are the machining marks on it, but the four streaks on the exhaust side of the piston were there before, as well as the tiny divots, intake side of the cylinder(it may be scored a lil, but not nearly as bad as most of the pics I've seen on the site)
3) No, I don't have anything to measure the gap, or trust me, I would have just for curiosity's sake. I have a friend that does(Mustang nut) and if you could let me in on what 2 look for, that'd be great. Am I going to have to tear her apart again(remove handle, carb box/av stuff, coil, flywheel etc.)?
4) Carb is brand spankin new, and I'm offended! I know how to tune it!!! I'm kidding about being offended, but at 1 full turn on each, H and L, run it to full bore, it sounds like it's gonna jump right out of my hand! The engine, throws itself forward, as if it's gonna rip its mounting bolts off, and tear down the street! It's got bawls! It just won't sit at idle. I'll try goin over about a 1/4 but I don't think it's that...I went 3/4(which was actually fine) to about 1 1/4 yesterday, and nothing. I think I left them both at 1
 
ok, compression testing for the second time, just for giggles

How many should I pull? It was at least 4 and less than 10...too many? And I blocked off intake and exhaust, and decomp valve hole, like with the pressure and vac test, I'm supposed to right?
 

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