028 WB Need Help / Carb problem??

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taddat

ArboristSite Member
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Location
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Thanks in advance for all of the help from this site -

I'm pulling my hair out on this one.

My wife (gotta love a wife that can find a $10 saw at a yard sale) picked up a 028wb. The saw was dirty but looks to have very low hours on it. The bar / sprocket were apart and missing a few items. I cleaned it up, put the clutch back together and the saw looks great but won't run. I have done the following (not necessarily in this order):

Fresh mix.
New fuel filter.
New plug just for kicks - old plug and new plug have great spark.
Re-built tilly carb x2 (one cheap carb kit from ebay and more expensive carb kit from my Stihl dealer)
I took the carb off and apart no less then 10 times looking at the diagram - reinstalling the gaskets in the correct order - and searched AS over and over looking for something I was missing.
Compression test - 150+
Pressure / Vac test - held for 30+ seconds while turning the flywheel
Remove / inspected impulse and fuel line - no cracks, no degradation, both look good and held pressure / did not collapse w/ vac.
Removed / cleaned the muffler.
Purchased a new tilly carb from ebay (but dumb me, i ordered one for an 038 - - anybody need one? I got an extra).

Today, I got different 028 tilly carb from a different saw and put it on.
It still will not run - it will only fire on a shot of carb cleaner.


With the original rebuilt carb and after pulling my arm off, I was able to get it to idle very rough and occasionally rev up to full speed if I feathered the throttle.

When I was able to get the saw running, it acted like it was running very rich (unburnt fuel draining out of the muffler and smelled rich).

- All carb settings started at 1 turn out and I have tried everything in between.

What am I missing????


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Thanks in advance for all of the help from this site -

I'm pulling my hair out on this one.

My wife (gotta love a wife that can find a $10 saw at a yard sale) picked up a 028wb. The saw was dirty but looks to have very low hours on it. The bar / sprocket were apart and missing a few items. I cleaned it up, put the clutch back together and the saw looks great but won't run. I have done the following (not necessarily in this order):

Fresh mix.
New fuel filter.
New plug just for kicks - old plug and new plug have great spark.
Re-built tilly carb x2 (one cheap carb kit from ebay and more expensive carb kit from my Stihl dealer)
I took the carb off and apart no less then 10 times looking at the diagram - reinstalling the gaskets in the correct order - and searched AS over and over looking for something I was missing.
Compression test - 150+
Pressure / Vac test - held for 30+ seconds while turning the flywheel
Remove / inspected impulse and fuel line - no cracks, no degradation, both look good and held pressure / did not collapse w/ vac.
Removed / cleaned the muffler.
Purchased a new tilly carb from ebay (but dumb me, i ordered one for an 038 - - anybody need one? I got an extra).

Today, I got different 028 tilly carb from a different saw and put it on.
It still will not run - it will only fire on a shot of carb cleaner.


With the original rebuilt carb and after pulling my arm off, I was able to get it to idle very rough and occasionally rev up to full speed if I feathered the throttle.

When I was able to get the saw running, it acted like it was running very rich (unburnt fuel draining out of the muffler and smelled rich).

- All carb settings started at 1 turn out and I have tried everything in between.

What am I missing????


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Wow, that is a beautiful saw for $10, heck that is a beautiful saw for $100. If your obviously flooding I would say it sounds like your inlet needle in the carb isn't seating properly. I'm not saying that is the only problem, but probably the main one at this point. If you think the needle, spring, and control lever are all installed correctly then look at the end of the inlet needle. There is supposed to be a rubber tip on it. If the saw has been sitting for a long time, that rubber tip can dry and stick to the seat. Then when you take the carb apart to rebuild it it breaks off. Try that out and let us know. Then when you get tired of messing with this saw, since I also live in Minnesota, I'll recoup your money and come take it off your hands :). Just thinking of your mental health.
 
never mind just saw you tried that

did the different carb you took off work on that saw? are you looking at the plug as you go it could be that simple all that pulling to get it started may foul it whats it look like dry ,wet ,clean ,fouled?you did everything right but the plug can change on you and your thinking your past that.what color is the spark?
 
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Has the saw been converted to electronic ignition? If not, a bad condenser or dirty points could be the problem. Even though it shows spark. Very common on theses saws
 
i would also say ignition problems ,, check wires make sure no breaks in insulation , maybe timing is off advanced or retarded . I would check the metering lever in carb and make sure its set at right height if its bent up to much it will cause the saw to flood .. good luck hope it helps ..

Also check intake boot to make sure its hooked up good and dosent have holes or leaks .. I rebuilt a 066 onetime and forgot to hook up the intake boot , pulled till i was blue in the face then i noticed what i had done , felt like a moron but its an hnest mistake
 
Is the 038 carb a Bing?

Resell it on e-bay.

My vote is ignition as well. Buy a good used coil off of an 029 on e-bay,
there are several going cheap.
 
Is the 038 carb a Bing?

Resell it on e-bay.

My vote is ignition as well. Buy a good used coil off of an 029 on e-bay,
there are several going cheap.

The 038 carb is a tilly also ---

I keep thinking it is fuel related but I have a coil from a blown up 290 - I'll try that and see what happens.
 
Yes the earlier ones were point ignition. The badge would have electronic on it, if original. I think electronic came out in the early 80's. I had one once that had a metal fuel tank and electronic ignition ( all original) and a chain brake that also disengaged the clutch from the crankshaft. Alot of these point saws had a stihl or aftermarket module added to eliminate the points and condenser.The condenser is what usually fails. Now it's easier just to change the coil with a common 029 style coil, direct bolt on. There are many little differences in the 028 series of saws. 028's were made for about 15 yrs.
 
Thanks!

Sorry to bump and old thread but after reading about others with similar 028 problems, I thought this might help (and I realized I forgot to say THANKS).

This was an ignition problem. I would have bet the farm that it was a carb problem but I was wrong. I got rid of the points and switched to an electronic ignition and the saw ran perfect.


Thanks again for all of the help!!!
 

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