036 choke and carb questions

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fields_mj

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I just picked up a used 036 for what I considered a reasonable price. Unfortunately, I had to buy it sight unseen. Upon arrival, I've noticed a few issues, but I think they are fixable an it will still be a good purchase in the end.

First thing I noticed was that the butterfly on the carb doesn't close all the way when I turn the choke on unless I hold the choke/start/stop lever all the way down with my thumb. It wants to spring back up and allow the butterfly to open up over 1/4 of the way. I can't see what is supposed to keep the lever all the way down when the choke is fully engaged. This makes it a bear to start the saw when its cold. If anyone knows what keeps this down so I know where to look for issues, I'd love to hear your thoughts. I haven't tried bending the linkage any yet. No need to actually break anything right off the bat :)

Second thing I noticed was that the H/L and I markings on the side of the filter cover do not match up to their actual locations on the carb. I forgot to take a pic of this, but it looks like they are upside down. The cover has the Idle marked as being on the bottom, and the H and L jets being on top, but the carb is the other way around. I'll have to double check this and confirm it when I get home tonight, but that really struck me as weird. The cover fits the saw just fine other than that. The carb looks to be original with STIHL stamped on the bottom.

Third thing I notices was that the carb settings weren't where I would have normally expected them. L was backed out 2 full turns and H was only backed out 3/4 of a turn which seamed pretty lean. In that setting, once it warmed up, the saw wanted to scream, but had very little power. I opened it up to 1 1/4, and it runs okay there but it still seems fast (I am ordering a tach to check it for sure).

I also noticed that the little door/vent cover on the cylinder cover is missing. The one that you are supposed to open up when you're running the saw well below freezing. Seems like when the saw warms up, it's tune changes a LOT, and this might be why. Does anyone know where I can get a cover with this door in place, or a replacement door? If not, I'll fill it in so that I'm not sucking in hot air off the cylinder for no good reason.
Lastly, the ZAMA carb on this saw does not have the little square snorkel that sticks out the bottom. Can someone clue me in on what I should be looking for in terms of a replacement? If I replace the air filter (current one is worn out) along with the carb, can I go to one with the square snorkel without any other issues? The guy I purchased the saw from appears to be very mechanically inclined. I suspect that this might have been a saw that he built from pieces, or made some significant repairs to so the current carb MIGHT not actually be stock even though the bottom cover is stamped STIHL. While I believe that he's mechanically inclined, I'm CERTAIN that he didn't know anything about chainsaws just due to the conditions of the 6 safety chains and 2 bars that he included with the purchase. One bar was HEAVILY worn. The other is case hardened on one side. One of the chains is black, presumably from heat build up. NONE of the depth gauges on any of the chains have been lowered. Trying to cut was like skating on ice. Since they are Oregan safety chains, it took me 30 minutes to file the 2 depth gauges for each cutter.... Once I did that, the chains cut fine (actually great for a safety chain).

Anyway, I'd like to get the choke to work correctly, the vent door fixed, and put a new carb (and air filter) on it and then see where it goes from there. If anyone has suggestions for any of these, I'm all ears :)

Thanks,
Mark
 
I would start by removing the air filter, and taking a pic of the choke assembly...and post the pic here.

Next, I'd find out exactly what carb you have on there. You might have to remove the carb to see the model number.

Roy
 
I took the carb off this morning and took a few pics. I don't recall seeing a part number anywhere on it. I'll look again tonight, and slip it back on to capture pics of the choke linkage. Here's a few pics of the current carb.
 

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You might pull the muffler and check for aluminum transfer on piston..If nothing else you get the peace of mind. Is the carb adjusted trying to compensate for a vacuum leak (Like crankshaft seals) If it runs/idles differently as you roll saw from side to side that is indicative of a vacuum leak..
 
You might pull the muffler and check for aluminum transfer on piston..If nothing else you get the peace of mind. Is the carb adjusted trying to compensate for a vacuum leak (Like crankshaft seals) If it runs/idles differently as you roll saw from side to side that is indicative of a vacuum leak..
I looked at the piston skirt and ring from the Intake side, and they look really good. Haven't pulled the muffler yet.

I'll get it back together and check for a vacuum leak like you've said. That thought is alwasy on the back of my mind when I have problems with a saw. The carb was pretty dirty with some really find saw dust (likely from trying to cut with the drag links way too tall). I'm hoping that the main issue is junk in the carb, either from the fine dust or ethanol in the fuel, but we'll have to see.
 
I looked at the piston skirt and ring from the Intake side, and they look really good. Haven't pulled the muffler yet.

I'll get it back together and check for a vacuum leak like you've said. That thought is alwasy on the back of my mind when I have problems with a saw. The carb was pretty dirty with some really find saw dust (likely from trying to cut with the drag links way too tall). I'm hoping that the main issue is junk in the carb, either from the fine dust or ethanol in the fuel, but we'll have to see.
If you have a vacuum leak the exhaust side usually takes the beating from the heat.. and you will need to block exhaust to do the vac test, Keep yer fingers crossed.
 
Looks like the carb is a C3A. I've never noticed this info on any of my other Saws. Maybe this is the only one clean enough to see it... :)
 

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As far as the choke goes, first pic is with the switch in the ON position. 2nd is with me holding the switch all the way down in the choke position with the trigger/throttle locked. 3rd is when I release the switch to leave it choked.
 

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Hi,
You should be able to work the "Lever" to se what is needed to make the Choke work.

My 026 would not shut down when the Lever was pushed all the way up for cut off.

Had to look and then bend/adjust to get the lever to short the Saw out.

Just sayin, seeing how something is suppose to work tells you what you need, a lot of times!
 
Remove the carb covers and look for sawdust trapped inside preventing full travel of the diaphragm and blockage of airflow. The kill switch spring is mis shapened or the red lever is worn preventing the hold on the choke position, together they hold/lock the choke on until manually turned off, the handle can become worn allowing defection of the red lever.
 
A good pic of the red master switch would clear up a good bit of guesswork.

Can you be a little more specific? The last set of pics are about the best that I can get of the red master switch. Not sure what else to try to capture in the picture.

The master switch spring is likely worn. Every 1125 I go through gets a new one.

I don't see a spring of any kind attached to the master switch on any of my saws, but it does feel like it just wants to flop around. Can you point me to where I should be looking to check on this spring?

Hi,
You should be able to work the "Lever" to se what is needed to make the Choke work.

My 026 would not shut down when the Lever was pushed all the way up for cut off.

Had to look and then bend/adjust to get the lever to short the Saw out.

Just sayin, seeing how something is suppose to work tells you what you need, a lot of times!

Totally agree. I've been doing troubleshooting and diagnostics on automated assembly equipment for over 2 decades, and that's how I normally approach something to begin with. On this one, I'm just not seeing what is supposed to keep the switch all the way down. I could bend the linkage, but I don't think that's going to help because the switch feels kind of "floppy". On my other saws, teh switch feels like it falls into specific locations where it wants to stay. Off, On, half throttle trigger lock, and choked. With this one, Off is floppy, On is kinda solid, Trigger lock/half throttle is barely detectable, and Choked is super floppy. If I bend the linkage, it's just going to cause the switch to rebound farther (move up). Seems like something is missing, or damaged on the switch itself, but nothing that's exposed tells me how it's SUPPOSED to work (ie, latch into position).

I'm going to take one of the other saws apart this evening and see if I can see something on one of them that can clue me in a little better. I have both ends of the spectrum covered (024/26 and 064), so if one of them provides a little clearer view of the workings of the switch, that may provide some answers.
 
As far as the choke goes, first pic is with the switch in the ON position. 2nd is with me holding the switch all the way down in the choke position with the trigger/throttle locked. 3rd is when I release the switch to leave it choked.
Pretty common, as mentioned. Squeeze one of the bends with pliers to straighten the linkage out a bit. Takes just a couple minutes and it will work fine
 

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