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marpat

ArboristSite Lurker
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I recently bought a stihl 044 off ebay, the saw idles great after I adjusted the low idle screw. It will idle forever, however I can run it at wide open throttle for a little while under a load even, but when I let off the throttle it'll go back to idle and when I hit the throttle again it dies. It died at a real inoppurtune moment on me today and I NEED to get this fixed.

Any ideas or opinions are welcome
 
This could be a carburetor problem. I recently had a similar problem with an 044 project saw, it would idle all day, but die shortly after revving it. I took the carburetor apart and found the screen inside was almost completely blocked. It has a small part that was open, and the rest clogged with dirt. I guess it was only getting enough fuel to idle. Make sure the carb is working properly, if its not that then there are a few other things to check, like impulse line, etc.
 
Tried but failed.

Well tried adjusting the carb like suggested on here.
Didn't work.
Took the saw to the local stihl dealership and they rebuilt the carb, tried firing it up in the parking lot before leaving. Wont idle now. Wasnt very impressed with the dealership, they simply said some saws they cant fix. Good thing I got a full refund for all the parts and work they put into it.

Took it to a local mom and pop small engine shop and they are going to see what they can do with it. If the estimate is over $100.00 I am going to take it home and rebuild it from the ground up.
 
It seems you are surrounded by idiots..(local Stihl dealer)...and I'm a Stihlhead..!!

Try another Stihl dealer or QUALITY small engine repair shop in your area...

A carb rebuild should have fixed your problem...imho...soo I dunno without seeing it..
(I hate carb problems worse than the devil himself..!!)
:cheers:
J2F
 
I would agree! They previously sold me the wrong chain twice for a MS 290 so not the brightest.
 
i was having similar problems the screen in your carb is probably got some junk in it check you fuel filter to the jack wagons at the shop put a diffrent filter on mine and suckked it full of crap in the carb so we had a little understanding by the time i was done if yah know what i mean have a good one and saw safe
 
Well tried adjusting the carb like suggested on here.
Didn't work.
Took the saw to the local stihl dealership and they rebuilt the carb, tried firing it up in the parking lot before leaving. Wont idle now. Wasnt very impressed with the dealership, they simply said some saws they cant fix. Good thing I got a full refund for all the parts and work they put into it.

Fark,if they cant sort an 044 out ,they got no hope
 
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That's exactly why I figure out how to work on my own stuff. Coming to this site was your first good step.
 
Neighbor said something similar to your experience.

Went to the local Stihl dealer for a running problem. Dealer said carb kit. Neighbor goes home cuts some wood, saw starts cutting out again. Puts the saw on the shelf, and uses his other saw. Six months later he tries the saw again, runs a bit and dies. Back to the dealer. He says carb kit. Neighbor says hey wait a minute...Dealer says oh, uh, never mind, it needs something else, we can't fix it.

Longer story short, the saw had a pinched plug wire. :msp_unsure:
 
Had similar problems before, all around. Could be a coil as well. had one run till hot then die when idled down. One of my buddy's got a carb kit from a local dealer. Wrong kit. Went to pro/logging/rigging store got right one. Screwed it up. Got another. Saw runs great. He learned alot and is now on his tenth or so carb rebuiled.
 
Replace the fuel line and filter. Get a carb kit and install it your self. I'm betting the fuel line is gummy and collapsing at WOT. Then it sticks together and won't allow fuel to flow to the carb. Check your tank vent also.
 
Well tried adjusting the carb like suggested on here.
Didn't work.
Took the saw to the local stihl dealership and they rebuilt the carb, tried firing it up in the parking lot before leaving. Wont idle now. Wasnt very impressed with the dealership, they simply said some saws they cant fix. Good thing I got a full refund for all the parts and work they put into it.

Fark,if they cant sort an 044 out ,they got no hope

The 044 is my most favored saw, trouble with dealership repair shops is they can`t or won`t take the time necessary to diagnose all the problems a saw might have. They make a guess at what is aling the saw and do one procedure like install a carb kit. Then its out the door, most shops don`t even have a test log to try the saw out in after its repaired so they kick it out to the owner to try it out.That is a sucky way to do work but it would cost that shop,-then they pass that on to the owner, so much next to no one would want to pay to have a full diagnosis done and repaired at that shop. We as home mechanics can spend countless hours playing with a saw and eventually end up with a perfectly running saw, just think what that would cost you paying the $66. per hour plus parts at a pro shop. Some saws have more than one problem by the time they come in the door of a repair shop, many times failing radial seals are masked by the carb being jacked up on the needle settings. First thing I try out after pulling the pullcord out 2-3 times slowly to get a feel for the internals is to take the screwdriver and check how many turns out the H&L needles are, that can give me a hint at what might be up with this particular saw. Most shops will just throw a kit in a carb or say it needs a new carb and the saw is returned to the owner working corerrectly or not.A good shop would also do a Vac Test but not any that I know of around here.
Some saws I have overhauled that looked like they had little hours of run time actually had 5-7 different issues that needed fixing to make them run correctly, those saws were left with me, the owners did not want to put that kind of money into them when they could buy a Walmart special for the same repair amount. I was just gived a 025 that the owner was fed up with it, low hours of use and it will only need the fuel system cleaned up, carb kit and has poor spark. It turned out after stripping it down, cleaning it up that it needed the air gap closed from about out at its maximum limit down to .010, a new spark plug, now has bright blue spark. A carb kit, fuel tank flushed out of all the sawdust and dirt in it, new filter that was mostly covered in varnish, new fuel pickup line that was gone soft and the airfilter washed and blown dry. This saw just sat around with gas in the tank for long periods of time, years sometimes at a streatch. It was never serviced, never had the airfilter off and was always hard to get started from day one so the owner was just fed up with it, I wonder why?
 
Big Plans

The only reason I took this saw to a shop was because I am currently running saws semi professionally, so it absolutely had to work before I took it into the woods. Good thing I have my J-red 2152 now though.

I have been working on small engines since I was 13. Granted most of it is working with four strokes and weed whips. I've gone through a class on small engines. However I have never split a case before. Any one got plans to make a splitter?

Going to call the shop tommorow for an estimate, if its over $100.00 I am going to take it home and completely rebuild it so that it will last for a verrry long time.

Both the Stihl dealership and my gauge have told me that the compression on it is low. So looking at replacing the piston and cylinder with either the baileys big bore kit or a meteor set. Going to see what I can do about adding a decomp too. Then replace the seals, bearings, fuel filter, fuel line, impulse line, carb internals, and spark plug. Then add the baileys pro safety felling dogs.

Has anyone ever converted a non artic saw to an artic saw?

Also going to try my hand at porting the old cylinder and adjusting the squish band. Any tips?
 
The only reason I took this saw to a shop was because I am currently running saws semi professionally, so it absolutely had to work before I took it into the woods. Good thing I have my J-red 2152 now though.

I have been working on small engines since I was 13. Granted most of it is working with four strokes and weed whips. I've gone through a class on small engines. However I have never split a case before. Any one got plans to make a splitter?

Going to call the shop tommorow for an estimate, if its over $100.00 I am going to take it home and completely rebuild it so that it will last for a verrry long time.

Both the Stihl dealership and my gauge have told me that the compression on it is low. So looking at replacing the piston and cylinder with either the baileys big bore kit or a meteor set. Going to see what I can do about adding a decomp too. Then replace the seals, bearings, fuel filter, fuel line, impulse line, carb internals, and spark plug. Then add the baileys pro safety felling dogs.

Has anyone ever converted a non artic saw to an artic saw?

Also going to try my hand at porting the old cylinder and adjusting the squish band. Any tips?


I must say you sound ambitious, the only way to learn is to get at it and learn as you go, make mistakes and just keep on going. If you are serious I will show you a very simple case splitter that needs just a bit of welding to make it. Anything can be done to this saw, making it an arctic would need all the heat elements, wiring and the special flywheel with the charging coil on the underside of the flywheel.
 
The artic idea was kinda just thrown out there, but I have a welder and would be interested in seeing this case splitter.
 
Have you pulled the jug yet? If not do that first and check the bearing before to worry about splitting this poor 044 in half. Is it a 10 or 12mm wrist pin? I also think there may be a nos top end for sale in the classifieds.

good luck
 
Very simple, a length of 5/8" water pipe, a bolt and nut, I used a fine thread 9/16 cause I have lots of them and a thick washer,it has a 3/4" center hole and an outside diameter around 1 3/4". I drilled holes to correspond to the oil pump holding screws, this attaches the washerd end to the saw case, the bolt pushes on the end of the crankshaft. The end of the bolt was ground to fit the crank counterbore.

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Have you pulled the jug yet? If not do that first and check the bearing before to worry about splitting this poor 044 in half. Is it a 10 or 12mm wrist pin? I also think there may be a nos top end for sale in the classifieds.

good luck

I do not know if its a 10 or 12 mm yet, might be pulling the jug tuesday.
 

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