044 rebuild

[BuckthornBonnie]

Try a cheap punch. They're sacrificial in my barn and really help in centering cranks. The softer the better (harbor freight?).
Does the bearing protrude into the case a significant amount? Usually they're proud to the exterior and require a large washer and a socket to correct. --- when the oil pump isn't used as a stop.
Any pics?

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Re: the oven.

I probably wouldn't. Try a heat gun instead.
The crank not spinning could be an improperly set bearing or simply the side bias on the c3 bearings/-- tapping the crank relieves this tension.

 

[catch_me-WV]

Finally got the bearings seated and the crank spinning free the other day after i got home from vacation. Even though the wife is cool with me using the oven to heat parts, she wasn't too willing to let her $400 hair dryer (thank god she didn't have to pay for it...) go down to the basement with me... So I used the oven to gently heat the case up to roughly 210*, depending on where I measured, and used my framing hammer with a wood block instead of the little softblow hammer. One sharp whack did the trick. I did use the oil pump as a stop, but didn't quite hit it (it's got a couple thou gap), but nonetheless everything is nice and smooth now. I also installed what I can while I'm waiting on the wrist pin bearing and also measured the squish (using the toasted oe wrist pin). The best fit I found was an aftermarket gasket that puts me at about 22 or 23 thou of clearance. I actually mismeasured the first try and thought I needed something only about 5 thou thick. So I did cut a gasket out of one of those stupid yellow slips the post office gives me when they're too lazy to put something in a parcel locker. Pretty sure it would have worked fine if it was the thickness I needed. I'll check again once I do the final assemble of the rod and piston to be safe.

I'll be posting several more pics sometime in the next day or so.

 

[BuckthornBonnie]

Good to hear.

 

[leecopland]

Looking forward to hearing it run and seeing it! Picked up a 44 recently and struggling with the carb a bit.

 

[catch_me-WV]

Been MIA here (really just lurking on occasion, but still) for quite a while, but have had more need (read: "excuse") to play with saws and equipment in the last year.

Ended up buying 3 400-series Huskies for really cheap last year that have gotten me by on my adventures so far (basic MM and good sharp chain work wonders for those little things...), but have been wanting to get this old girl going before spring so I can actually put it to work.

I got this saw running within a couple days of my last post here, but in 4 years or so had nearly no real need for it. The last couple times I did fire it up I felt like something wasn't right, so I finally picked up a cheap vacuum/pressure tester a while back to give it a good once-over before it comes out to the woods with me.

Ended up finding that the worm-gear bushing on the crank was worn enough to create an air-leak (yes I tested with it held in place, as it popping out at me under about 5psi made that little tidbit obvious), so I ordered a new one.

Good news is that the air leak is gone. The saw now holds pressure and vacuum pretty much indefinitely.

Bad news is I'm pretty sure I know why that bushing was in worse shape after a mere 1-2 hrs of run time on my rebuild...

The real reason for this necro-posting is to warn others about installing cranks without a puller...

That aftermarket crank I installed is bent just enough to see it with slow rotation on the bench. Haven't put a dial indicator on it yet, but it doesn't really matter, since bent is bent.


Don't be like me and think "it'll be fine" to try and center your crank with heat and a soft hammer or small mallet... just make or buy a correct tool and save the hassle. I know that's my plan here (though since I also have a chicom 660 kit to build sitting in wait, I'm really wishing they shared the same threads as the 1128 series had since I am liking the concept behind the husky-style tools and don't really have the $$ to buy 2 of them, or to buy 2 different new reverse-thread metric taps...).

Coincidentally, anybody here got a 12mm 044/440 crank they would part with for a decent price? Otherwise I'm looking at just buying an Ebay parts saw to get an OEM crank. I know I'm the one that damaged the aftermarket one I installed previously, but I also have to wonder if an OEM one would have held up and not bent...

Here's for hoping I can get this one done soon so I can try and build that "660" soon too. Not gonna go into full details in this thread, but I do have 60-some acres of heavy storm damage to deal with now (estimated 150mph winds tend to make quite a mess), unlike when I posted the original rebuild thread.

Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk

 

[catch_me-WV]

Oh, forgot to mention I did look into and am curious about trying to possibly true this crank, but would rather not risk the cases doing it with an aftermarket one. If the situation was reversed and the cases were aftermarket but the bent crank was OE, I'd probably be posting about my attempt already.

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[Slackinoff]

Do you think the crank got bent from using a soft hammer on install instead of a puller? I wouldn't think that would be possible, but maybe. or it could be the crank got dropped hard in shipping or was manufactured wrong? I didn't use a puller installing my 440 crank either, but it also dropped right in from freazing it and heating the case with bearings already installed in case. I tapped the end of the crank to release side load though with a dead blow hammer.