066 rebuild

[reed1517]

Lots of people here know a lot more than me about the 064/066 series. I have one of each and have learned much of what I know from them. I too have been forced to learn as I fix all my own saws.

That early 066 should be a great reliable runner if you rebuild it proper with quality/OEM parts.

How does the OEM P/C look? Try to use the original cylinder if it cleans up and looks OK.

both look great. Not sure why the saw wasn’t used anymore. It looks like it was left outside and forgotten. Got very lucky there. Plan on using them both. Just replaced both bearings. Will post pics as I get the saw back together. thank you.

 

[Mad Professor]

both look great. Not sure why the saw wasn’t used anymore. It looks like it was left outside and forgotten. Got very lucky there. Plan on using them both. Just replaced both bearings. Will post pics as I get the saw back together. thank you.

Posting pictures is great as you get things put back together. It will help others working on the same model saw.

Years back the site crashed and a lot of valuable/useful pictures got lost.

Hope it's ripping wood soon!

 

[L34]

You can run the Stihl "common" coil with any flywheel.
Need to remove the key.
It's for timing only.
Taper on crank and wheel hold it tight.
Here is a pic of my 064 running the common coil with piston at TDC.

 

[L34]

BTW for those that don't know common coil is P# 0000 400 1300.
Fits lots of saws.

 

[Lightning Performance]

I'm wonder if these flywheels are broached correctly on some models?

Some people purposely make changes like the coil to add ignition retard with less starting advance. Not sure how that shakes out on 1122 models and different coils.

My saw has the same carb box as the OP but a few different bolt on parts. I'd assume they used what they had at the time of these updates and changeover. More than a few have had hard starting issues when things get swapped around and others had no issues. The worst case is mixing the parts to end up with a big timing advance before starting. Have done that once myself so I can see how some would have a big issue getting one fired up.

Do any of these factory installed coils have the timing retard mode?

 

[reed1517]

Update the saw is all back together. It will start very easily and will idle. But will sputter out at wot. I removed the key and have been experimenting with a position that won’t rip my shoulder out when starting. I haven’t found info on how to determine the best flywheel positioning without the key. Could this be causing it to not run at wot?

 

[Lightning Performance]

Update the saw is all back together. It will start very easily and will idle. But will sputter out at wot. I removed the key and have been experimenting with a position that won’t rip my shoulder out when starting. I haven’t found info on how to determine the best flywheel positioning without the key. Could this be causing it to not run at wot?

Maybe but not likely.
The arm ripper isn't much fun on no decomp button models.

You can always check timing with a timing wheel on the pto side.
Usually they fire about twenty degrees before TDC give or take depending on the coil type.

 

[reed1517]

View attachment IMG_1408.MOV
View attachment IMG_1408.MOV

 

[Lightning Performance]

View attachment 1019381
View attachment 1019381

Your running out of fuel. Don't try to cut with it.

 

[reed1517]

Your running out of fuel. Don't try to cut with it.

Couldn’t if I tried.

 

[Lightning Performance]

Couldn’t if I tried.

But you are running out of fuel to the high speed jet likely caused by a carb leak, bad diaphragm, collapsed or kinked fuel hose, clogged fuel filter or inlet screen or a bad impulse line or signal.
Keep running it like that till you see aluminum on your spark plug.
GL

 

[reed1517]

Think the tank vent would have anything to do with it? I’ve been trying to find the correct one. Ended up with the little red cone thingie. I’ll rip apart carb and check impulse.

 

[reed1517]

But you are running out of fuel to the high speed jet likely caused by a carb leak, bad diaphragm, collapsed or kinked fuel hose, clogged fuel filter or inlet screen or a bad impulse line or signal.
Keep running it like that till you see aluminum on your spark plug.
GL

But seriously I only revved it up like that for purpose of the video.

 

[reed1517]

But seriously I only revved it up like that for purpose of the video.

Got it up and running. Another thorough cleaning of the carb and it’s good to go. Don’t know what I missed when I rebuilt it.

 

[singinwoodwackr]

Got it up and running. Another thorough cleaning of the carb and it’s good to go. Don’t know what I missed when I rebuilt it.

did you clean it in a tank?...ultrasonic...
I was surprised the small particulate crap that came out of a carb I thought I'd cleaned with just carb cleaner and blowing it out.

 

[reed1517]

did you clean it in a tank?...ultrasonic...
I was surprised the small particulate crap that came out of a carb I thought I'd cleaned with just carb cleaner and blowing it out.

No ultrasonic. Just took my time around the jets.

 

[reed1517]

It’s cutting good and strong. Just one question about the motor noise. I’ve done a lot of bigger husky saws and the motor isn’t as noisy. This is my first bigger Stihl rebuild. Are they usually this noisy ? Its original piston and cylinder cleaned up. I was thinking of swapping out the piston to see if it’s the piston causing the noise. I had a 288 and a 394 that both sounded cleaner after a piston swap
View attachment IMG_1415.MOV

 

[Woodslasher]

Could be the piston, might be something on the clutch side as well.

 

[trains]

Sounds like the piston should have been replaced, bit of piston slap in the background there, if you put a feeler gauge between the piston and cyld, tell us the measurement

 

[reed1517]

Sounds like the piston should have been replaced, bit of piston slap in the background there, if you put a feeler gauge between the piston and cyld, tell us the measurement

The squish was .022. I did a base gasket delete.