084 versus 090 versus 076

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I agree the 076 is a great saw. The one thing that kinda irks me about it is the mix fill cap location means it is not possible to refill the tank while it is in a CS mill.

RE: Drive sprocket
I presume you wish to purchase a replacement?
If so all you need to know is the pitch size which is determined by the chain which can be identified by a number stamped on it somewhere.
 
Unfortunately I don't have a bar or chain. I bought it on E-Bay, powerhead only. So I don't know if the previous owner ran 3/8" or .404"
I guess I'll have to wait until I get the clutch tool.

Would it work to refill the gas tank partially to get to the end of a board or does that ruin the boards?
 
Unfortunately I don't have a bar or chain. I bought it on E-Bay, powerhead only. So I don't know if the previous owner ran 3/8" or .404"
I guess I'll have to wait until I get the clutch tool.
The other way to work out what the sprocket is would be to use a caliper to measure the diameter and compare it to know sprocket sizes, but you would have to get someone else to measure the diameter of 375 or 404 (that's the most likely sizes it would be) because I am on the other side of the world from my 076.

Would it work to refill the gas tank partially to get to the end of a board or does that ruin the boards?
That's what I have been been doing - the other thing I have been meaning to do is find one of those right angle mix tank fillers that are used for the concrete cutting versions of the 076.
 
Most of the time you'll have enough gas to finish one board. At least, that's true of most milling saws, most of the time.

Maybe the 076 is a special case, but most chainsaw clutches can be removed without special tools.

Is the sprocket on the outside of the clutch ? Is it a spur sprocket or a rim sprocket ? A pic would help.

If it has a spur sprocket, I'd suggest converting it to a rim.

http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+22262X&catID=364
 
Most of the time you'll have enough gas to finish one board. At least, that's true of most milling saws, most of the time.

Maybe the 076 is a special case, but most chainsaw clutches can be removed without special tools.

Is the sprocket on the outside of the clutch ? Is it a spur sprocket or a rim sprocket ? A pic would help.
It has an inboard clutch and special tool is required but you can make it your self.
Here is an example made by AS member Martrix. There is a large but welded onto the other side that is turned with a spanner or socket.
attachment.php


If it has a spur sprocket, I'd suggest converting it to a rim.
http://www.baileysonline.com/itemdetail.asp?item=ORF+22262X&catID=364
That's what I did with mine.

BTW there are pics in this thread that show where the sizes and part numbers are located on the clutch drum.
 
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Thanks a lot. Especially for the pics. I try to get some pics later. Got to work for a while:)
The sprocket is a rim sprocket with 7 slots. I got the nut off the clutch drum but can't get the drum off. E-bay has a new clutch drum for 3/8" for $35 from a guy named "cheapchainsawparts". If mine turns out to be .404 should I convert to 3/8" since all I want to do is milling? What else would I need to change for that?
 
Thanks a lot. Especially for the pics. I try to get some pics later. Got to work for a while:)
The sprocket is a rim sprocket with 7 slots. I got the nut off the clutch drum but can't get the drum off. E-bay has a new clutch drum for 3/8" for $35 from a guy named "cheapchainsawparts". If mine turns out to be .404 should I convert to 3/8" since all I want to do is milling? What else would I need to change for that?

I suspect it will be a 404 and yes I would convert to 3/8. Whether you can switch to 3/8 just by changing the rim sprocket depends on whether you have already bought a bar.

If you have not bought a bar make sure you get one with a sprocket nose to suit 3/8 chain
 
Haven't bought a bar yet. The clutchdrum on E-Bay says it is for 8 slots that might be a problem.
 
Thanks for the pics, phred45, and thanks for the tool explanation, BobL.

The good news is that you already have a rim-type clutch drum. Unless it is worn out, there is no need to replace it.

If the rim turns out to be 404, then you just swap in a 3/8 x 8 rim, which costs all of $3 at Baileys, or a few bucks more at your local dealer.

$3 rim

If the rim turns out to be 3/8, then you are good to go, except ....... it's a good idea to install a new rim about once a year, because they do wear and that can cause problems.

Plus, you'll probably want to move to an 8 tooth rim, rather than a 7, depending on what size wood you'll be milling.

Let's see if I can find some rim diameters for you. A 404 x 7 rim is 1.52" OD. A 3/8 x 7 is 1.38" OD.

Any leads on an affordable bar ? What length are you wanting ?

I'm in the same boat, looking for a bar to fit the big Stihls, and not finding any screaming bargains on sprocket nose bars. Perhaps I'll go with a 36" Carlton that's on closeout at Baileys. It's set up with a 404 nose, but a 3/8 nose can be purchased separately and the overall price is still decent. I just gotta scrape together the money -- you know how that goes. :D
 
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Finally weekend! The rim is defenitely .404 x 7 the diameter is 1.5".
Unfortunately I bent the clutchdrum trying to get it off without a proper tool, so now I have to buy one. Learning from mistakes. The link below has the one I saw on E-Bay.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=360235922180&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

I'm looking at a 36" bar with rip chain. Most of the trees are about 10 to 24 " in diameter there will be a few bigger ones but not many. We have some really big pines but a lot of them are slowly dying from pine borers, it's very sad to watch. Felling them is difficult, they will take out a lot of other trees so we probably just leave them for the wild life. We are building a polebarn for storage, tractor, equipment and wood.
Scraping the pennies is very familiar that's why we aren't buying the wood and having anything cut at small lumber mills around here is prohibitive. This way we only have to buy the hardware and the metal roofing.
Thanks to you guys, I'll be making less mistakes and hopefully save some money.
 
The $35 ebay drum and rim would work, but the $17 Bailey's drum and rim would work, too. Your choice.

I hear you on pinching pennies. For the next few months, all my time and money will be sucked up by construction projects. Except for emergency repairs, saw projects will have to go on the back burner until winter.

BTW, what part of Arkansas are you in ? You mentioned pines, so I'm guessing central Ark ? Helena was my hometown, also spent some time in Pine Bluff and Sulfur Springs. I don't miss the heat, the humidity, the insects, or the culture, but I sure miss the hardwoods and cypress. At the time, hardwoods were being logged aggressively, but dead cypress was left to rot or float away during spring floods. There seemed to be little appreciation for cypress then, it was little more than a weed tree. And now -- man, I'd love to have a few cypress logs to mill. Think of all the things you could do with cypress.
 
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Thanks. $ 17 at Bailey's sounds great. Then all I need is the matching drive sprocket, right? Does the needle cage bearing need replacing? Any ideas what else I should check before I get started?

Actually I'm from Fort Smith, born and raised. My wife hates it and I agree but we are stuck here. The land we bought is north of Charleston. Most of our trees are big red cedar trees, not like up north but pretty good size. Some Oak and some Pine. We also have a few Black Locust and Hickory trees but they don't seem to get very old and are all pretty small. An old homestead has a couple big old Kentucky Coffee trees and an old stone chimney, well over 100 years old. One of the trees will have to be cut it is very old and breaking. The wood is beautiful and we tried to offer it to wood carvers but nobody is interested. I guess we'll save it for later.
No insects sounds like heaven where do you live? We can't even get into the woods to work without spraying against ticks and chiggers first.
 
The Baileys drum kit includes a rim sprocket. When you add the drum to your shopping cart, it'll ask you to specify which rim you want.

I'm in Idaho. We do have deer ticks, and I've contracted Lyme disease twice. Yellow jackets and flies are pretty thick in the late summer. But all in all, not enough insects to complain about.

The chiggers were pretty bad when I lived in Sulfur Springs. Scorpions, too, that came out at night. If you had to get up in the middle of the night to make a trip to the bathroom, there would be scorpions scurrying across the floor. Before you put your shoes on, you had to shake them to make sure there were no scorpions inside. And then there were the snakes ......:laugh:
 
Thanks. $ 17 at Bailey's sounds great. Then all I need is the matching drive sprocket, right? Does the needle cage bearing need replacing? Any ideas what else I should check before I get started?

Actually I'm from Fort Smith, born and raised. My wife hates it and I agree but we are stuck here. The land we bought is north of Charleston. Most of our trees are big red cedar trees, not like up north but pretty good size. Some Oak and some Pine. We also have a few Black Locust and Hickory trees but they don't seem to get very old and are all pretty small. An old homestead has a couple big old Kentucky Coffee trees and an old stone chimney, well over 100 years old. One of the trees will have to be cut it is very old and breaking. The wood is beautiful and we tried to offer it to wood carvers but nobody is interested. I guess we'll save it for later.
No insects sounds like heaven where do you live? We can't even get into the woods to work without spraying against ticks and chiggers first.

I'd like to have some pen turning blanks out of that. Amazing no takers from carvers. Could be no one has experience turning it if it's a rare tree and thus no value.
I have a new Jet mini lathe in the shop now I just need to learn to use it. I put my youngest daughter Jessica thru a wood turning class and she has turned out a nice pen and wine stopper out of lacewood so far.
PM me if you wouldn't mind sending a small block of the stuff out-:cheers:

Here is a link I found with some pictures of the wood.
http://www.ces.purdue.edu/extmedia/FNR/FNR-281-W.pdf
 
The Coffee tree is still standing. I'll try to get come pics for you next time I'm out. Then you can tell me what part you may want and how much. How would one ship that? You can e-mail me direct to phred45 .at. juno.com.

I've got another question on the saw blade for the 076. So far I am looking
the following parts for changing to 3/8" ( thanks mtngun) :
Oregon Power Mate Rim & Drum •Stihl 050, 051, 075, 076

•Replaces Part Number 1111 640 2025 and 0000 642 1206

•Fits Crankshaft Diameter .5512 (14mm)

•Drive Sprocket Bearing N/A

•Rims Spline Size Standard 7 Spline (RSD) and at .375 x 8 tooth configuration replacement for Stihl 0000 642 1216

Will the 36" Carlton Premium Sprocket Tip Bar (36-57-B3104-PS) .404 x .063 chainsaw chain work if I replace the nose sprocket with a 3/8?

Sorry, this is all still confusing to me.
 
Bench sharpener ?

Still another question. Granberg has the chains and I am thinking of getting 3 so my wife can sharpen them while I cut. She would like a bench sharpener. What would you suggest that is pretty fool proof since we have no experience. Will the same sharpener also do her small chains for the Stihl MS 180?
 
Will the 36" Carlton Premium Sprocket Tip Bar (36-57-B3104-PS) .404 x .063 chainsaw chain work if I replace the nose sprocket with a 3/8?

I'm gonna answer the question I know the answers to. Your right on the bar.
If you change the sprocket you can run 3/8 .063 chain


Still another question. Granberg has the chains and I am thinking of getting 3 so my wife can sharpen them while I cut. She would like a bench sharpener. What would you suggest that is pretty fool proof since we have no experience. Will the same sharpener also do her small chains for the Stihl MS 180?


I'm not gonna recommend a grinder but I have a cheap northern tool one and it does an okay job for the price.

I used to change chains after every two cuts. I had a old logger watching me and he asked me why I don't file the chain. To make a long story short he filed it for me and I couldn't believe how well it cut. I actually think it cut better than a new chain. I soon learned a quick hand file in between cuts made it cut even better than a grinding job. It takes more time to change a chain than to file it. All I'm saying is give hand filing a try. Get yourself a box of files and a grinder. I'm told that a hand file can make a chain sharper than a grinder. After a cut I set my saw to the side and let it cool while I'm moving the last board. Then I file it and gas it up for the next cut.

Most grinder can take different size grinding wheels so you can grind your wifes saw also. You do want to make sure the grinder can tilt so you can grind ripping chain.
 

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