104 Octane?

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woodyman

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Hi everyone,I just got a 3 month old MS310 that will soon be sporting a mod muffler (thanks to gremlin). My manual says the fuel should be at least 89 octane and from what i read everyone is using 92.My question is would 104 octane be better?I would like the saw to to get the most from the fuel and last as long as my huskies:givebeer:
 
Is it spark knocking now?

If it is not.. Then just run a premium gas. You have not altered the timing or the compression.
 
Not really any point in running the 104 octane. You're not running a full mod saw. You're also not at a compression high enough to take advantage of the added octane. Stick with 89 or premium and you'll do just fine.
 
:givebeer:
Not really any point in running the 104 octane. You're not running a full mod saw. You're also not at a compression high enough to take advantage of the added octane. Stick with 89 or premium and you'll do just fine.

In my other HUSKIES i have run i think its 87 octane unleaded with the HUSKY 50to1 and they seem to have no problems,i allways mix it one gallon at a time.Are the stihls more fussey when it comes to fuel?I have never owned A STIHL in my life till now and i want it to last along time.Is 20 years with the right care and cutting 4 cords of firewood a year asking too much of the MS310? :givebeer:
 
104 Octane

:givebeer:

In my other HUSKIES i have run i think its 87 octane unleaded with the HUSKY 50to1 and they seem to have no problems,i allways mix it one gallon at a time.Are the stihls more fussey when it comes to fuel?I have never owned A STIHL in my life till now and i want it to last along time.Is 20 years with the right care and cutting 4 cords of firewood a year asking too much of the MS310? :givebeer:

ITS:givebeer: MY DAY OFF DONT GO BACK TILL NOON TOMORROW:givebeer:
 
I'll pile on... 104 race gas won't be worth the extra expense in a lightly modded saw.

What I would recommend is to only mix up as much as you're likely to need in +-30 days.

Use premium grade fuel and top-shelf mix oil, such as Stihl Ultra synthetic, if you want to keep it in the family...

After 30 days, dump the old stuff in your car/truck/mower etc, and fix up a fresh batch.
 
+2

I'll pile on... 104 race gas won't be worth the extra expense in a lightly modded saw.

What I would recommend is to only mix up as much as you're likely to need in +-30 days.

Use premium grade fuel and top-shelf mix oil, such as Stihl Ultra synthetic, if you want to keep it in the family...

After 30 days, dump the old stuff in your car/truck/mower etc, and fix up a fresh batch.

The need for 104+ octanes comes in when you really boost compression 200psi compression and up,,,, you need it to Prevent detonation

Your muffler modded 310 saw will run fine on it but,,, I think it's overkill JMHO,,,,, fresh 89 or 92,93 will be fine!!!!:cheers:
 
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104

Steve here... 104 octane can actually make the saw run poorly, if it does not have the compression for the high octane...Again the higher the octane number...the ability of the fuel to prevent detonation
Steven
 
Steve here... 104 octane can actually make the saw run poorly, if it does not have the compression for the high octane...Again the higher the octane number...the ability of the fuel to prevent detonation
Steven


bull
 
Our high rpm chain saws can get away with more octane compared to lower rpm 4 stroke engine such as lawn mower or even our cars. I use 93 or 94 octane, no need for anything more. If my saw was modded and had more compression, I have Sunoco GT 100 octane unleaded near my house that I would use.
 
Our high rpm chain saws can get away with more octane compared to lower rpm 4 stroke engine such as lawn mower or even our cars. I use 93 or 94 octane, no need for anything more. If my saw was modded and had more compression, I have Sunoco GT 100 octane unleaded near my house that I would use.


Dang,,, do I hear an echo???????,,, Good Plan!!!!
 
With porting and muff mods, you are increasing the motors ability to breath. Increasing the air flow means you need to increase the flow of gas for that extra oxygen.
 
Please, take me thru that...I am dying to here your explanation
Steve

several years ago I returned home from work late and wanted to get the yard mowed b4 dark. out of mower gas and no time to run to town and still mow b4 dark.

filled up with race gas as it was all I had at the moment( don't remember the exact octane but it was Unacal racing gas )

noticed the mower didn't bog down as much in the thicker parts of the lawn as usual

normally used a tank and a half to do the whole lawn, this time mowed all on just under one tank full

I really don't think my 5.5 hp briggs is a "high compression" engine

now maybe I'm just looking at this all wrong but it sure seemed to me that I completed the same task on less fuel and the mower did not work as hard in the taller grass

but I guess this would have nothing to do with how a chainsaw would run on better fuel huh?

You run whatever you wish...I'll stick to the good stuff
 
Just started using the 104, figured it can't hurt in the amounts it is used per season (not like the car). Another added bonus, it smells better (forgot about that from the MX scene).
Not sure it runs any better, but it goes.
 
As I tell most people on all these pointless subjects... You use what you want and I'll use what I want. Some people have run 104 and had a saw last for 20 years! And I've used pump gas and had the same. Point of the whole thing is... At least use some good 89+ octane fuel and good quality oil from whatever maker you want and you'll have some great fun use of your saws or whatever. 89 octane doesn't cost an arm and a leg so no problem with that. Enjoy.
 
Just started using the 104, figured it can't hurt in the amounts it is used per season (not like the car). Another added bonus, it smells better (forgot about that from the MX scene).
Not sure it runs any better, but it goes.

Nothing like the smell of "High Octane":cheers:
 
Unless you drill a 1/2 " hole in the front deflector plate & cut out the recessed area behind it you wont have much of a muffler mod. If you split the muffler in half take a dremel with a cut off wheel & remove around 1" of the channel in the back of it. Had my friend at the muffler shop wire feed weld back up . After that the high speed mixture screw will require an additional 1 turn out to get it down from the 13,400 rpm that you will be seeing. 12,800 rpm was the final setting before the thing would spool up properly & being able to get a smooth idle without the chain spinning. If you don't the saw will most likely implode on it self because of a lean condition. As far as running something more than the best pump gas you can buy & using semi or full synthetic oil mixed at 1 bottle to .9 of a gallon raising the octain wont buy you anything except on very hot days where it will provide extra protection from detionation. Just finished one for a friend its running a large bearing clutch drum with a 8 tooth 3'8 .050 - 16" ES & 361 dual dawg w the roller catcher. Good saw for 4"- 12" stuff. Bigger than that you need a bigger saw. :chainsaw:
 

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