16" on 361

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NPKenny

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Another post reminded me that I had a question on this topic.

I'm considering dropping the bar length on my 361 from 20" to 16". Reasoning includes being easier to haul daily in the truck, a bit more nimble, I now have a larger saw, and less drag on the motor in the cut. And, a good portion of my cutting is on smaller diameter oak. Contrary to popular opinion here, I have noticed that the 361 will bog a 20" bar (maybe altitude of 6000' or maybe dull chain???) in oak and juniper.

Would an 8-pin sprocket and 16" be the best set-up this way or would 7-pin still be the way to go. The thought is this would be the super limbing saw and an overall good packing saw.

BTW, the saw is set to 13,600rpm out of the wood as this seemed solid in wood cutting with the 20" bar. It might be a little fat still.
 
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I'm considering dropping the bar length on my 361 from 20" to 16". Reasoning includes being easier to haul daily in the truck, a bit more nimble, I now have a larger saw, and less drag on the motor in the cut. And, a good portion of my cutting is on smaller diameter oak. Contrary to popular opinion here, I have noticed that the 361 will bog a 20" bar (maybe altitude of 6000' or maybe dull chain???) in oak and juniper.

Would an 8-pin sprocket and 16" be the best set-up this way or would 7-pin still be the way to go. The thought is this would be the super limbing saw and an overall good packing saw.

BTW, the saw is set to 13,600rpm out of the wood as this seemed solid in wood cutting with the 20" bar. It might be a little fat still.

Definately easiar packing in the truck.
It should wind out a bit quicker using the same sprocket.
A bit lighter.
Less chain to maintain.
In 10inch diameter wood I do not think it would bog with either. In 16 inch wood I think you would notice it would pull a bit better with the shorter bar.
Several advantages, but if I was running a 16 in bar more then a couple hours, my back likely will feel worse at the end of the day unless the wood was all up in the air in easy reach. The longer bar saves steps also with the added reach.
I would try the 8 for a while and if your not sure try a 7 and compare. More power with the 7 but I always notice very significant more fuel consumption which means more time down filling up on the saws I switched sprocket size with.
 
...

Would an 8-pin sprocket and 16" be the best set-up this way or would 7-pin still be the way to go. The thought is this would be the super limbing saw and an overall good packing saw.

BTW, the saw is set to 13,600rpm out of the wood as this seemed solid in wood cutting with the 20" bar. It might be a little fat still.

7 or 8-pin depends on more than the lenght of the bar - the only way to really find out, is to try both - rims are cheap.......:)
At 6000' my guess is that 7-pin will work best for anything but very small wood.

13600rpm sounds a bit rich to me, but I am no expert. Mine was at a tad over 14000 the last time I checked, and sounds about right.

I don't know how the 6000' affects the best rpms, but you sure loose some power.
 
I run an 8pin at 6,000 feet. Runs just great.


At 9,000 or so, I put a 7pin back on, makes it a little easier for the saw to run. Its got plenty of good usable power.
 
Feed the need Kenny, get a smaller saw.
LOL, I just had to add that.:biggrinbounce2:

A 026/260 is nice with a 16" bar. I got 2 026s and keep 16"s on both. One stays in the truck's tool box.:chainsaw:
 
Feed the need Kenny, get a smaller saw.
LOL, I just had to add that.:biggrinbounce2:

A 026/260 is nice with a 16" bar. I got 2 026s and keep 16"s on both. One stays in the truck's tool box.:chainsaw:

Right on, my 026 Pro is my "carry with me" saw. Only time it leaves the truck is when Im cutting, sharpening, or tweaking. Small so it dont take up much space, and a really, really good little saw.
 
Right on, my 026 Pro is my "carry with me" saw. Only time it leaves the truck is when Im cutting, sharpening, or tweaking. Small so it dont take up much space, and a really, really good little saw.

Yep, I got another 026 to take with me to Tommy's when the 261s(trade 026 for 261) come out but I might just buy one and keep the 2 026s. Gosh darn site, my bank account suffers so much.:cry: :cry: :cry:
 
You will notice a bit of difference in the drag factor. I have a 460 with a 24" bar and it really rips. Even when I am bucking, dancing it around a little is no prob with the torque. I say go for it and see how you like it.
 
Why bother with a 50cc saw when you are a mile high?


They are losing waaay too much power and honestly, a 361 is not that much of a jump in size and weight. Paper specs, maybe. But in the real world... uh... no.
 
Feed the need Kenny, get a smaller saw.
LOL, I just had to add that.:biggrinbounce2:

A 026/260 is nice with a 16" bar. I got 2 026s and keep 16"s on both. One stays in the truck's tool box.:chainsaw:

That is some sound advice...

Well the wife is watching me type, so I will only discuss what I have previously addressed with her. No more saws!!!

Ha..... As she is laughing I will add that the next saw will be a 200T just because. The dealer and I have already spoke on this issue. But that is way far down the road (wink wink!!)
 
I just slapped the 16" back on the 357xp, since I've got a 20" on the 6401. My free wood pile really went off last week after our big storm, and can split again thanks to cortisone injection in the rt. elbow, great stuff,.. I digress.:cheers:
 
8 pin

I just put an 8 pin, 16" bar and 73lg chain on my modified husky 570 this thing rocks also it uses much less fuel as with the power curve you dont need to run full out when limbing and anything under 8" this is in hard maple and ash .it will cut most everything I have left to cut at this time, untill its time to drop some more of the big stuff.then the 24" bar will come back out I'll try the 8 pin on that also as it only takes a minuite to change if I'm not happy with the power.
 
Just my $0.02 cents worth....

Bought my 361 with a 16" , the Dealer mentioned that he would put any size on and that the 361 would spin even a 24" just fine. The nitch I wanted to fill was to replace my 310 , and cut anything my 660 was to clumsy on.

With a 7-pin and cutting at altitude (sometimes up to 10,000') I could not be happier, the term 'Dances with saws' comes to mind for how handy a 16" 361 is!
 
I just notised I didn't say so in my earlier post, but I usually run an 8-pin with the 15" bar on mine (stock Euro version) - but I am close to sea level. :)


- it is extremely handy (nimble) and fast with that set-up, but the 15" will be replaced with a 16", when worn out......
 
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While I don't have the 361, the 036 wears a 20" bar. It doesn't always get used to full bar length, but I think it is a little more user friendly with the longer bar. If I need a full 20" bar, I grab the 440 or 372 or 7900 or....well you get the idea.

I like the 16" on the 50cc saws. My 026, 55 and 5100 all wear a 16". If I didn't have a stockpile of Stihl 20" ES bars, I would probably get an 18" for the 036 or 361.
 
While I don't have the 361, the 036 wears a 20" bar. It doesn't always get used to full bar length, but I think it is a little more user friendly with the longer bar. If I need a full 20" bar, I grab the 440 or 372 or 7900 or....well you get the idea.

I like the 16" on the 50cc saws. My 026, 55 and 5100 all wear a 16". If I didn't have a stockpile of Stihl 20" ES bars, I would probably get an 18" for the 036 or 361.

God gave us rocks to fell trees onto here in Colorado,,,,, 16" is short for things on the ground,,,,,, if I were over 6' tall I would not run 16" .
 
I just put an 8 pin, 16" bar and 73lg chain on my modified husky 570 this thing rocks also it uses much less fuel as with the power curve you dont need to run full out when limbing and anything under 8" this is in hard maple and ash .it will cut most everything I have left to cut at this time, untill its time to drop some more of the big stuff.then the 24" bar will come back out I'll try the 8 pin on that also as it only takes a minuite to change if I'm not happy with the power.

An 8 pin and 16" bar on any 60+ cc saw flat out rocks.

You really shouldn't be running your saw at part throttle, though. The carb isn't designed for the midrange. If it was, it would have a mid range adjustment on the carb. It has a low jet circuit for the idle and off idle to full wot and then the high jet circuit for the wot.

Just be weary, don't want you to end up with a fried p/c cause it went lean in the midragne.
 
another vote for an 18 in bar on 361.

had a few 60cc range saws, 034 super, husky 359 and 365. mostly wore 20in bars. excellent limbing saws, but bogged down in big wood. this was especially true for hardwoods around here.

after getting 046 and MS 460. ended up selling all my 60 cc range saws.
much prefer a two saw combo of 026/046 or MS 200T/064
 
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