2 Way splitter design stage w/ Solid Works

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Rule #1 never trust ANY demo video. The stuff they ALWAYS split is butter. Never any green, no knots, and nothing ever hangs up. Did you notice how larger rounds were more diff. now imagine a knarly peice of Hackberry or hedge. I'm not knocking the thought, but know what your up against. Another thing would be space to manuver. If I was gonna try it I would keep the wheels far away as possible. Good luck. By the way--- my splitter,,,, total custom built vertical w/elevator that stands up out of my truck. And that was all done before I came here.:biggrinbounce2:
 
Don't believe the video, just listen to the owners. The design is proven, debris is not an issue, power is more than enough to cut wood that won't split and it's output is unmatched. Call split-fire and ask about a rental, lots of good ideas to be had from looking at one.
 
I would think the splitfire is about the worst of all worlds.

Go run a regular splitter for a while.

With a traditional splitter, you run the lever with one hand, hold the wood with the other. Run the wedge in about 4 inches into the wood until it cracks, back it out. Ram moved 8 inches total.
Rotate, the wood, repeat. Rotate, repeat. You will find after a while you get good, and the ram only moves 8 inches.

Now, look at a traditional staggered 4 way like on my site. Splitter moves 20 inches out, 20 back, but wood is split 4 ways. If the log is bigger then a 4 way can do in one pass, you learn to adjust the log so you only have one big remainder, that you run through again.

If you can autocycle the 4 way, 90 percent of the time you can be grabbing another round while the splitter is cycling, so you have zero lost time.

Now lets look at a splitfire. Set log on table. ram moves 18 inches minimum. Then you turn the log, wait another 18 inches. now turn the log, and you have 18 inches.
Notice the splitfire has a very short moving wedge. It is short because there are huge binding forces trying to cock the moving wedge. And, you can't build a decent foot under the wedge because there is a flat plate at both ends, and a Ram under one of the plates.

Complicated, less force in one direction, slower to actually use then anything out there.

A solution to the wrong problem.
 
I would think the splitfire is about the worst of all worlds.

Go run a regular splitter for a while.

With a traditional splitter, you run the lever with one hand, hold the wood with the other. Run the wedge in about 4 inches into the wood until it cracks, back it out. Ram moved 8 inches total.
Rotate, the wood, repeat. Rotate, repeat. You will find after a while you get good, and the ram only moves 8 inches.

Now, look at a traditional staggered 4 way like on my site. Splitter moves 20 inches out, 20 back, but wood is split 4 ways. If the log is bigger then a 4 way can do in one pass, you learn to adjust the log so you only have one big remainder, that you run through again.

If you can autocycle the 4 way, 90 percent of the time you can be grabbing another round while the splitter is cycling, so you have zero lost time.

Now lets look at a splitfire. Set log on table. ram moves 18 inches minimum. Then you turn the log, wait another 18 inches. now turn the log, and you have 18 inches.
Notice the splitfire has a very short moving wedge. It is short because there are huge binding forces trying to cock the moving wedge. And, you can't build a decent foot under the wedge because there is a flat plate at both ends, and a Ram under one of the plates.

Complicated, less force in one direction, slower to actually use then anything out there.

A solution to the wrong problem.


Go run a regular splitter for a while

Hmmm, now what do you suppose was my previous 2 splitters? Actually 1 was my fathers. I suppose that your saying you HAVE run a Split-Fire before? If not, I suppose you wouldn't really be qualified to make that case. On some really good perfect rounds You might have a point. Most of the elm, birch and twisted stuff I split you have to complete the cycle anyway. And why not put the 4 way on the Split-Fire? They are manufactured to be a 2 way or a 4 way on one splitter (optional). Here is the catch: 1 person operation I think is a toss up as 1 person will not reap all the benefits of a 2 way like the Split-fire. Give me 2 people to supply and the Split-fire will be a winner hands down. I'm not trying to convert anyone as the typical splitter is more than capable, but to say the 2 way is not a valid option is just foolish. I didn't just go out and buy one, I saw my 1st one at the woodsman field days and talked to people that own them. It is impressive as an alternative just as the super split has its own niche. Obviously I love mine. :cheers:
 
I have seen these at NT but couldnt tell how wedge was attatched. Is it on the end of the rod or is the wedge attatched to the cylinder barrel. As far as having less pull or push is not a point insomuch as no one has seen the cylinder piston packing. If all packing kits pushed or pulled only one way ALL forklifts would go in circles. I was thinking of using a F/L steering cyl but they all seem short because it is an interesting concept. As far as waiting for 18in. I thought that was the purpose of the dual sided wedge, half it on the first pass and then quarter on the reverse pass.
 
Do you have any pictures of your splitter?

Dan

I'm sure they're in the search somwhere. But here's a few. Just behind the cab is a 16hp briggs (under the cover.) For all those wondering it's 16GPM with a 5x30 prince ram. The only real change since the pic is I now raise and lower the elevator with the ram by cable, cause I am lazy
 
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