2010 MS391 what do you think
- Thread starter WoodyWoodsWood
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jrr344
Addicted to ArboristSite
The temp of the saw has no bearing with cops.
redheadwoodshed
Freebird
Yes, the temp. of coffee and doughnuts are much more important.
One consideration, and an important one at that, is price.The ms 391 is a great saw at around $520 bucks.
One consideration, and an important one at that, is price.The ms 391 is a great saw at around $520 bucks.
Just my 2 cents
The 362 (saw the 391 is being compared to) has a
- 59cc motor
- 4.6 base horse power
- weighs 13lbs (only the power head)
Whereas the 391
- 64.1cc motor
- 4.4 base horse power
- 14lbs powerhead
I would agree that the 362 is a lighter faster saw, but it's not really greatly worth the price increase (in my opinion) Just because a saw isn't classified as "pro" by Stihl doesn't mean it doesn't have more than enough power to get the firewood cutter through a season. The horse power difference is going to be noticible, but not greatly.
The next comparable saw would obviously be the 441, which doesn't weigh much more than the 391 and has a ton more power. Can't argue that is a much more powerful saw and more effective. But there again, you're paying a few hundred more bucks for that power.
All I'm saying is that they (391 and 362) are almost the same saw. If it were me I'd go either 391 or 441, but that's just my choice. I have a 391 (after using a 362) and will eventually get my hands on a 441
For the firewood cutter a 391 is going to be plenty of power though
The 362 (saw the 391 is being compared to) has a
- 59cc motor
- 4.6 base horse power
- weighs 13lbs (only the power head)
Whereas the 391
- 64.1cc motor
- 4.4 base horse power
- 14lbs powerhead
I would agree that the 362 is a lighter faster saw, but it's not really greatly worth the price increase (in my opinion) Just because a saw isn't classified as "pro" by Stihl doesn't mean it doesn't have more than enough power to get the firewood cutter through a season. The horse power difference is going to be noticible, but not greatly.
The next comparable saw would obviously be the 441, which doesn't weigh much more than the 391 and has a ton more power. Can't argue that is a much more powerful saw and more effective. But there again, you're paying a few hundred more bucks for that power.
All I'm saying is that they (391 and 362) are almost the same saw. If it were me I'd go either 391 or 441, but that's just my choice. I have a 391 (after using a 362) and will eventually get my hands on a 441
For the firewood cutter a 391 is going to be plenty of power though
Encore I agree, but for the money they're better options out there, the Dolmar 6400 mostly. The 6400 is close in power to the 441, 372 and is much cheaper.
banshee67
Poulan Wild Thang
i think the number one thing you are missing in all of this, its not just the .2 hp and the lb less of weight, its the overall construction and quality of components used that makes a saw a "pro model". you are getting WAY more than +.2 hp and -1 lb when buying a 362 over a 391, they are nowhere near "the same saw". yes the 391 has 'more than enough power to get a firewood cutter through A season".. but the pro grade saws will get you through way more seasons , unless you straight gas it like rygard
Bargain 391 and 20 chains
Those chains are stretching cause they are getting hot. Either Dull or no oil, but most likely dull with the new saw, especially if cutting Juniper. However, check out the oiler on that saw.
Those chains are stretching cause they are getting hot. Either Dull or no oil, but most likely dull with the new saw, especially if cutting Juniper. However, check out the oiler on that saw.
I hear ya. I don't know near as much about Dolmar, but I'm sure you are right. I was just throwing my 2 cents in the 362 v. 391 comparison
I understand what you're saying. And that .2hp, like I said is going to be a noticeable difference, but as far as necessary performance increase I really don't see the benefit.
Stihl saws in and of themselves are all very well built. Don't get me wrong, the 362 is a great saw (I used one before purchasing my 391) I just feel that so long as you aren't running your saw over with a pickup every day or dropping it on the shop floor or felling trees ontop of it, what difference is it going to make?
Prior to purchasing the 391 I was using a 20+ year old 038, also called a "mid range use" saw but it's lasted a very long time. Just take care of your Stihl and it'll take care of you.
All I'm saying is there is nothing wrong with getting a saw that fits the job. Sure we all get a kick out of using more HP (more is just about always better
) but when finances are tight, that's not always a feasible choice. Firewood cutters are not loggers. You don't need a super heavy duty saw for firewood. I've seen a ton of guys use their 024's and 250's to stack their wood shed's fullOnly reason I bring up firewood cutting is because that's the application mentioned here.
Like I said though that's just my personal take on the issue. At the end of the day if you get a Stihl you're set :sinister:
^What he said
If all those chains were stretching out, I'd be a little concerned about the life of the guide bar. That's an awful lot of chains to have gotten stretched.
Had a brother in law do that to his saw once (he's not real smart) and wonder why his chain got so stretched out
bcorradi
Arboristsite.com Sponsor
I agree with Encore.
How many firewood seasons would a 391 last an average joe firewood cutter who cuts 8 cords per year?
What are the deficiencies in non pros saws as far as longevity is concerned, that should be of concern to us non pros?
I'm not saying pro saws don't have better power to weigh ratio, are faster, are more comfortable to use, etc. However, how many hours in reality does us so called non pros use a saw per year?
I know on this site we all belittle the so called non pro saws, but in all reality how many of us are pros?
How many firewood seasons would a 391 last an average joe firewood cutter who cuts 8 cords per year?
What are the deficiencies in non pros saws as far as longevity is concerned, that should be of concern to us non pros?
I'm not saying pro saws don't have better power to weigh ratio, are faster, are more comfortable to use, etc. However, how many hours in reality does us so called non pros use a saw per year?
I know on this site we all belittle the so called non pro saws, but in all reality how many of us are pros?
fidiro
ArboristSite Guru
I like my 390. I'm not a pro. If I had same deal on a 360 @ the time I would have bought it just the same. The 390 would have been more than enough saw for me for a long time, but I have been spending too much time on AS and I now have two others that will do the same work as the 390. If I never came around here reading and writing, I would still only have a 390 doing everything I needed it to do.
In the end I will have cut/split wood to burn in my stove.
In the end I will have cut/split wood to burn in my stove.
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WoodyWoodsWood
ArboristSite Member
The chains stretch and get hot yes. Because I cut very dirty wood. Juniper is whats sold for firewood around here, and it's extremely dirty. I run my oiler all the way open and keep my chains sharp. I usually sharpen at least 5 times per cord. And as I have said before I do want a pro saw but just can't afford one.
i think you did good on the 391 for 375.00 and enough chains for your life i have also got a 2010 ms391 and a ms460 and the 391 is really all i needed but some of the bigger wood was taking advantage of me so i got a 28''/20'' bars on the 391 and 20''/32'' on the 460 and thats all ill need the 391 still does 80% of the cutting till i need to fall or buck some bigger stuff but even the 391 with the 28'' could get the job done its just nice to have something with a little more bite with bigger logs
SawTroll
Information Collector
I wasn't referring to the actual temp of the item, and I am sure that you and everyone else did understand that.
WoodyWoodsWood
ArboristSite Member
I would love to be able to send you a piece of the Juniper/Cedar that I cut. It's really dirty wood. I sharpen my chain at least 5 times per cord and guide bars only last about ten cords. If I am cutting at dawn or dusk you can see the sparks fly off the chain its pretty crazy stuff.27 chains will only last you a year!? :shock:
between that and the comment about them stretching so much you have to have links removed.. i think this is in order:
I work for a tree trimmer now and am in total amazement at the fact that we took out and bucked five 60 to 70 foot cottonwoods and only had to tighten the chain one time. So I could understand how ya'll would think I'm doing it wrong. but the fact is that you simply haven't ever had to deal with the cutting conditions that we do here.
I will try and get a pic of this type of wood up soon.
texastele
ArboristSite Operative
chain stretching
Admittedly, this is an old post but I felt like I needed to reply. Out here (West Texas) link removal is a very common practice. I will have the links taken out until I run out of cutter. I run good equiptment in good working order and sharpen after every tank of gas. I cut basically every day that I am not at my main job. I will probably stretch a chain once every two weeks or so. It may be longer than that, but I do a minimum of one a month. This can be exacerbated by poor practices/equiptment/supplies/dirty wood but these are not the only causes of chain stretching.
Admittedly, this is an old post but I felt like I needed to reply. Out here (West Texas) link removal is a very common practice. I will have the links taken out until I run out of cutter. I run good equiptment in good working order and sharpen after every tank of gas. I cut basically every day that I am not at my main job. I will probably stretch a chain once every two weeks or so. It may be longer than that, but I do a minimum of one a month. This can be exacerbated by poor practices/equiptment/supplies/dirty wood but these are not the only causes of chain stretching.
