261 with 3/8 chain, what do ya think??

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HemiMoparGuy

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Hey Guys,

Just wondering what you think about running 3/8 chain instead of the .325 that Stihl recommends on a 260 or 261. I know it takes a bit more power, but as long as I stick to the bar length recommendations, would the 3/8 pull just fine? I understand that the sprokets and everything have to match...I'm just curious about the pitch being different and how it will run...Basically I want to be able to have different bars and chains interchangeable with the other saws that I want that will for sure use 3/8 chain
 
I can only talk about the MS260 but as most I suppose my came with .325. I switched over to 3/8 many years ago and have been much happier. I cut mostly sort woods including redwood and D-fir and like the wider kerf 3/8 leaves. I also cut a long project in a river channel where everything is sandy from high water flow and I along with rest of the crew have found 3/8 to stay sharp longer. I run an 18" bar but the company saws all run 20" bars for a bit of extra reach.

BTW I will probably buy a 261 this summer because of the better filtration. The 260's tiny little filter sucks in dirty conditions. My saws run hard nose bars during dirty conditions and Cannon sprocket nose bars the rest of the time.
 
I run 3/8 chain on my 261 and like it just fine. I run 3/8, .063 ga on all my stihl saws for interchangability.
 
I've already played around with mine. I would tell you that at 16" it is just fine, can't tell a difference. I think it slows it just at tad at 18" and at 20" you can tell a difference as it slows it down.

I actually like the .325 with an 18", but there is really no difference between it and a 3/8 set up with a 16" bar. It doesn't take 5 minutes to switch out the rim sprocket and bar, the sprocket is about 5 bucks.

Try it, it's not going to hurt anything. Imho the 261 handles the 3/8 much better than a stock 346, due to the 261 having a wider power band, more on the low end.
 
The question is what is "just fine" - .325 will probably cut faster and smoother, if you use the right chain. :msp_smile:
 
The question is what is "just fine" - .325 will probably cut faster and smoother, if you use the right chain. :msp_smile:

Basically by "just fine" I mean will there be a significantly noticeable difference...Actually I guess that would be a "no" cuz if I buy the saw with 3/8. I'll never have run it with .325 to tell a difference...so I guess, will I be disappointed with the performance of the 3/8 regardless of the fact that the .325 would be faster.

I also didn't realize it was super easy to change out the sprocket...I dunno, still think it'd be easier to have every saw the same
 
similar to what's been said

I run 3/8 .063 yellow chain 16" bar on my 261...

like the wider kerf, interchangeability, and not having an extra file

I wouldn't run any longer bar with 3/8 at this point...maybe after a few more tanks I'll change my mind

cheers!
 
.....

I also didn't realize it was super easy to change out the sprocket...I dunno, still think it'd be easier to have every saw the same

It is very easy to change the sprocket, and cheap - you really should try 3/8"x7 vs, .325x7 and .325x8 if you are interested - but the difference in cutting speed most likely will be small.......:D

..but .325 surely will be smoother, and better suited for limbing etc (but the MS261 is not, really)....
 
I've found that when using 3/8" chain on smaller saws that skip-tooth chain works well,it doesn't take quite as much power,and less filing.
Also a consideration is that where I live chain is priced by how many drivers it has,3/8 chain has less drivers than .325 and can be cheaper to buy,depending on how the dealers price it.:)
3/8" chain is stronger, stretches less,rides deeper in the bar groove,I prefer it over .325 any day.
 
When I purchased my 260 last year, the dealer set it up with 3/8" chisel and 16" bar. I have about thirty tanks of fuel thru it cutting a lot of ash, cherry, and some oak. It handles it all so I only break out the 361 when I run out of bar? I guess if I was a pro, I'd want more speed, but for firewood cutting, it works great for my needs.
 
Glad you have dealers who entertain the reality that it is possible to put 3/8s on the 261. Locally, they refuse.

The bigger question I have been wondering while debating a 261 is if I run .325, does Stihl make an ES bar in that pitch. Looks like no at this point and the E bars have been a disappointment on my bigger saws.
 
Glad you have dealers who entertain the reality that it is possible to put 3/8s on the 261. Locally, they refuse.

The bigger question I have been wondering while debating a 261 is if I run .325, does Stihl make an ES bar in that pitch. Looks like no at this point and the E bars have been a disappointment on my bigger saws.

Last I knew Stihl did not make an ES bar in .325, only 3/8 with the 3003 mount.
 
Glad you have dealers who entertain the reality that it is possible to put 3/8s on the 261. Locally, they refuse.

The bigger question I have been wondering while debating a 261 is if I run .325, does Stihl make an ES bar in that pitch. Looks like no at this point and the E bars have been a disappointment on my bigger saws.

Do you need a dealer to change your bar and sprocket? Ask for advice here on how that is done. I say that because others probably are better at explaining the operation. Here is how it is done in my world. First off clean and inspect each part as necessary. Remove the clutch cover and bar an chain. Then pop off the e-clip and remove the washer from the clutch drum. Remove the sprocket. Make sure the brake is off and pull the clutch drum. Grease the drum bearing. Replace the drum, put on the new 3/8 sprocket, washer and e-clip. Now put on your new bar and chain and cover. It will take you less time to do it than to read about it. BTW when you are at the dealer buying a new sprocket pick up an extra e-clip, just in case yours goes into orbit when you try to remove it.

Also, you can just skip the dealer altogether and order everything from Bailey's and pay half the dealer price.
 

Heck ya!! How do you get your angles right on the .325 chain? I tried it and it seemed like the lower tooth height made it almost impossible to get the correct angle. The file hits the tie strap long before I can get the angle close to right. It cut better than round, but It could be way better.
 
A good dealer is worth it's weight in gold.

There are things that are more important than price and for the most part are intangible and not easily measured by metrics.

Advice, job leads, used equipment leads, loans and many more are some of these intangibles.

I don't begrudge someone trying to make a living.
 
A good dealer is worth it's weight in gold.

There are things that are more important than price and for the most part are intangible and not easily measured by metrics.

Advice, job leads, used equipment leads, loans and many more are some of these intangibles.

I don't begrudge someone trying to make a living.

Sorry pal but your dealer is a sham if he won't change out a .325 sprocket for a 3/8 sprocket. You need to wake up.
 
Sorry pal but your dealer is a sham if he won't change out a .325 sprocket for a 3/8 sprocket. You need to wake up.

I said a good dealer.

I am lucky where I have two good dealers within a twenty mile radius.

A good dealer provides SERVICE.

A stealership is to be avoided or a last resort.
 
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