266 refurb, questions in general

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Farmer_Nate

Better Saws are Better...and Gut that Muffler!
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Tearing down an old 266xp, I believe it is a 1988 model from the serial number. This is the first saw I have ever totally torn down and rebuilt.

A few questions:

Saw is old and had some use, but not much abuse it seems. Piston lower skirt on the intake side shows a bit of wear, as does the cylinder along that side. It isn't noticable marred or scratched, it is just that the original machining marks are gone and the cylinder and piston look smooth and shiny there. I am considering a new piston and ring...good idea?

Also, I have a spare Mahle cylinder I bought with the saw. The spare looks almost brand new, less wear than the other one. I bought the extra cylinder because I wanted to tinker with porting while in there and didn't want to mess up the OEM cylinder. The cyclinder looks identical to the one I took off, so I guess OEM was Mahle? I want to port the saw, but very mild stuff since this is my first effort a rebuilding a saw. I wonder the most bang for the buck there.

I know 266xps had different rings along their production, some the thin ring and some a thicker ring? Could I put a thicker ring and piston in this saw? Is there a benefit to the thicker ring? Also, if I buy a ring, will it be automatically the right size or will I have to check end gap at the end of the rings while the ring is in the cylinder? How much gap should there be cold? If I get it too tight, will it swell when hot and damage the saw?

I am familiar with how piston connecting rods work in cars. Typically they bolt it. However, it looks like the connecting rod is made in one piece as is an assembly along with the crankshaft? Are all saws made this way? Why?

How do I check the bearing between the connecting rod and the crankshaft? It seems to have a bit of play? How much is too much play? How do I know if I need a new crank?

Sorry if these are silly or if there are already answers on the forum. I'll continue using the search feature to try to find out.

Also, why are pistons oriented a certain direction? My piston has an arrow on it which was set up in the saw pointing toward the exhaust. The piston looks symmetrical, so why would it matter if the ring opening were toward intake or exhaust side? Would exhaust pressure open up the ring if it were put in backward?
 
OEM pistons are no longer available so if your considering a replacement you’ll have to go aftermarket. If the piston still fits nicely in the cylinder I’d hone it and replace the ring. You can measure the clearance with a feeler gauge if you’ve got really thin ones. .002-.003 thousandths is acceptable. Much beyond that I’d replace the piston. Early saws came with two .5mm thick rings, I’d have to check the old service bulletins but at some point they switched to a single 1.5mm ring. If your saw is a 1988 model it would (should) have had the single ring. No need to adjust ring gap as they’re all the same but it’s a good idea to check it. The piston must be installed with the arrow pointed towards the exhaust port due to the position of the locator pin. It’s in a specific spot so the ring won’t get hung up in a port. As far as the rod bearing goes, there should be almost no up and down “play”. It will move side to side a lot though. This is with the top end removed of course. I’d suggest posting pictures of everything once you’ve torn the saw down. We can give you better advice if we can see what your working with.
 
Are two rings better, in genera? Why would some saws have 2 and others 1?
The early two ring saws used .5mm rings. Being that thin they also had less tension in the cylinder. The idea was less friction would result in better performance. I believe they went to the single 1.5mm ring in later saws because the thin rings didn’t have good service life.
 
Guy I bought from suspected air leak, said saw ran poor on its side. I and originally planned to split the case check the bearings maybe replace the bearings and seals and gaskets just to do a full refresh so that I wouldn't have to go back in...for fun of course
 
OEM crank bearings and case gasket are no longer available from Husqvarna. I personally wouldn’t split the cases unless absolutely necessary. I’d bet dollars to doughnuts that bottom end is just fine. Do the crank seals, o-rings, piston ring, cylinder gasket, and carb kit. And the fuel hose and filter if it needs it. Do that and you’ll have a good running saw for many years to come.
 
Yeah, had that same thought last night. Why split the case if it isn't leaking and the OEM bearings are good. Though there are likely good quality crank bearings available, maybe as good or better than OEM, but those bearings seem fine.

Saw crankshaft bearings at the connecting rod and the two outboard at the shafts seem good in the bottom end and all seem smooth when rotating the crank without seals in place.

The leak described by the seller could definitely have been a crank seal because there was a lot of black gunk around the crank on the drive side when I took it apart. Could have been a leak in the fuel line, I guess, but fuel hose also looks very pliable and nice.

Wonder about the piston wrist pin needle bearings? Those wear any faster? These seem ok but while I am in there...?

The ones on there seem tight.

Any thought on rings?

Caber?

https://www.wolfcreeksawshop.com/pr...y-fits-husqvarna-372xp-371-372-jonsered-2071/
 
The cylinder...looks pretty good. The camera picked up some dust and dirt and a little carbon, but overall it is smooth inside with little wear and no large scratches. I have a direct replacement, a Mahle with same part number, ready to experiment with light porting. That replacement cylinder hardly looks touched.
 

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Ordered Today...

501 91 58-04 Sticker for Side of Chain Brake Cover?
501 52 25-04 Exhaust Gasket?
503 45 42-02 XP Sticker for side of pull start
https://www.sugarcreeksupply.net/collections/decal-sets/products/husqvarna-266xp-early-decal-set
Fuel Cap
Oil Cap


rubber mount smaller one
chainsawr
501 59 41-01

Fuel Line
501 28 59-02
The Duke...ordered

Piston ring
https://www.sawsalvage.co/products/...50x1-5mm-set-of-2?_pos=1&_sid=8b8165680&_ss=rThe Duke...ordered


Crank Seals
503 26 02-04
The Duke...ordered

Oil Pump O-ring
740 42 21-00
The Duke...ordered

Carb Kit
501 49 48-02
Tillotson HS-224A
Diaphragm Kit DG-5HS
Repair Kit RK-23HS
M&D Mower and Appliance
Ordered Repair Kit

Throttle Boot
503 44 50-01
The Duke...ordered
 
Sounds like you got everything you need. One thing about pistons and cylinders though. You’ll notice on the piston there’s a “A” stamped on top. The cylinder that came off the saw should also have a “A” stamped on the raised portion (top of cylinder) near the spark plug. Those are grade markings. The piston and cylinder must match. In other words, you don’t want to run a “A” piston in a “B” cylinder. This is how they set the clearance (piston to cylinder) from the factory. Reason I bring this up is your gonna want to check that spare cylinder for grade. If it’s A your good. If it’s B or C I’d be looking for a B or C piston to go with it.
 
Ah, wondered what that meant. I'll check em now...

The one with the spark plug is the cylinder which came on the saw.

KIMG0816.JPG


The one with the hole and no spark plug is the extra cylinder I plan to experiment with. The experimental cylinder has an A stamped on it also, but appears another more prominent stamp was placed over top of it. PD? No idea what that means.

KIMG0817.JPG
 

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