268 Help Needed

[Jimmy in NC]

Was looking for some parts for a 372 project that I'm working on and someone told me of a great little saw shop that only deals in Husky. I stopped in and sure enough, he's got a bunch of Husky. I started **** chatting with him and then asked if he had any of the things I needed for the 372. He slowly got up and wandered around and dug around. No dice but we did keep talking. I mentioned what I was building and that I mess around with older saws for fun. After about 30 minutes and a Coke, he asked me if I knew anyone that wanted a 268. Said he gave trade in credit for it and it came in with no spark. Well he fixed the ignition on it and now it wasn't getting fuel and he was tired of messing with it. He told me where it was behind the bench and go look at it. I picked it up and quickly noted it had plenty of compression. He got in the truck.

I picked up a carb kit and got it running in short order and it seemed to run good. The next morning I took it out to run a few test cuts and the idle was off... and it didn't want to tune. I know that screams air leak. I also noticed the clutch side moves more oil than Exxon Valdeze and oil is going everywhere under the clutch cover. I have read the oil pump seals the crank case but will a leaking crank seal cause major oiler issues too on a 268/272 style saw? I'll order up crank seals and the O-rings but should I also put in an oiler too while I am in there? Can the oil tank vent be cleaned with out splitting the case if it is clogged?

I know with out pictures it didn't happen, will get them later today.

 

[ckelp]

it's sounds like you've got it handled,
the only suggestion i have is check the carb again sometimes crap gets dislodged
there good runners

 

[SawTroll]

Just curios, is it a SE/XP/Special, or is it one of the later open port ones?

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Just curios, is it a SE/XP/Special, or is it one of the later open port ones?

It just says "268" and I think it's a '95 model from my decoding of the serial number. Am headed to the shop right now to get some pictures so you can see what I'm working with.

Didn't mention earlier that the fuel line was replaced by someone else earlier in life with a Husky curly hose instead of the molded line. It will get a molded line from me, but would that also create lean conditions?

This style line was removed:

View attachment 262867

 

[SawTroll]

A 1995 one is one of the open port ones, that used the top end from the earlier model 66 = less power than the earlier versions. It is still a good saw though!

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Finally.. pictures!

And a little character if you will....

So can the leaking crank seal push oil from the oiler all over the place or are there two issues going on here?

Should I just replace all of the bar oiler components while I'm in there and be done with it so I'm not back in there?


I was just hoping for a two saw plan, 026 and a 372 ported.... now I'm on to a 3 saw plan adding the 268... I'm pretty sure CAD has set in!

 

[SkippyKtm]

So can the leaking crank seal push oil from the oiler all over the place or are there two issues going on here?

Should I just replace all of the bar oiler components while I'm in there and be done with it so I'm not back in there?


I was just hoping for a two saw plan, 026 and a 372 ported.... now I'm on to a 3 saw plan adding the 268... I'm pretty sure CAD has set in!

Nice saw!..
Sounds like you have two separate problems, (although they're conveniently placed near each other). Check the oil pump output o-ring and make sure its there, if the oiler is removed sometimes that o-ring gets lost and put back on without it.

The PTO side crank seal is real easy to change on that saw, once you pull the pump you'll see why! Make sure the large o-ring going around the circumference of the seal is replaced too.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Nice saw!..
Sounds like you have two separate problems, (although they're conveniently placed near each other). Check the oil pump output o-ring and make sure its there, if the oiler is removed sometimes that o-ring gets lost and put back on without it.

The PTO side crank seal is real easy to change on that saw, once you pull the pump you'll see why! Make sure the large o-ring going around the circumference of the seal is replaced too.

Is the output O-Ring the one I have the blue arrow pointing to?

The other seals I think I need to order are marked with red correct?

Anything else I should do while I'm in there? New pick up line?

Overall I think even with the character mark I did ok for $50.00... ohh yeah it does need a new loop of chain.

 

[jockeydeuce]

The oiler has a little black screw on the side of it to adjust the oil flow.....If it's set on "4" they oil pretty heavy.

Is there lots of oil making it to the bar rails?? Or is it all barfing out everywhere else??

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Oiler is set at 3 right now. Oil is everywhere in a matter of 2-3 minutes. Some on the rails, some on the clutch drum, etc. It oils so heavy, it comes out the hole in the clutch cover that is drilled between the mount studs. If pointing the bar at a piece of cardboard, no sling off the tip so I'd guess there is just a sea of oil in the clutch cover coating everything.

 

[jockeydeuce]

If you're getting that much oil and no sling off the tip, there's a problem....Could just be the little quad ring between the pump and the case leaking.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

If I get time in the shed tonight, I'll go ahead and pull the pump off and see what's going on in there. Hopefully it's blatantly obvious what's missing or wrong.

 

[rburg]

I had a jonsered 670 which is similar to the 268 and I believe you will be happy with it once you get it up and running.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

I think it will be a nice saw to add to the collection. I plan on running a 20" bar on it and using it for my "in the truck saw." It already has enough character that I won't mind a little more.

 

[SkippyKtm]

Is the output O-Ring the one I have the blue arrow pointing to?

Yes

The other seals I think I need to order are marked with red correct?
Yes

Anything else I should do while I'm in there? New pick up line?
Yes, Sometimes the pickup line can leak and the entire tank of oil will drool out over time, leaving a giant puddle on the shelf. I've had a few leakers like that. A new pickup line will do the trick.

Overall I think even with the character mark I did ok for $50.00... ohh yeah it does need a new loop of chain.

Answers are in BLUE:msp_thumbup:

 

[eat a peach]

great saw

I stumbled across a 268 on CL cheap ,looked real rough. After a bar and chain and couple of other minor things it also is my "truck saw"
It always seems to end up going cutting. I think I like the feel of it better than my 372xp. Might be the minimal amount of money I have invested.:hmm3grin2orange:Enjoy it

 

[smilin possum]

Have you give the bar a good look sometimes when the holes in the bar get clogged and then they'll oil everywhere else. Just a thought before you get to far into it.
Joe

 

[SkippyKtm]

Have you give the bar a good look sometimes when the holes in the bar get clogged and then they'll oil everywhere else. Just a thought before you get to far into it.
Joe

Good advice!

Although it sounds like you don't have this issue, but while you're in there check the plastic oiler drive gear to be sure the drive splines in it aren't buggered up. If someone's worked on it before you, they sometimes fail to line it up properly before they tighten up the clutch.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Have you give the bar a good look sometimes when the holes in the bar get clogged and then they'll oil everywhere else. Just a thought before you get to far into it.
Joe

That was my first thought. I always clean bars first thing when they come in. I then had to dress the rails pretty heavily as they were in sad shape. I wanted to run it longer but with a leaking crank case, no need to push my luck.

 

[Jimmy in NC]

Good advice!

Although it sounds like you don't have this issue, but while you're in there check the plastic oiler drive gear to be sure the drive splines in it aren't buggered up. If someone's worked on it before you, they sometimes fail to line it up properly before they tighten up the clutch.

I'll do it. The evidence I've found so far says the previous owner or who ever was working on it wasn't the most meticulous.

I will probably also replace the pick up just for security. I would hate to think it dribbles over trying to save a few dollars.