272xp is killing me

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cabin16

cabin16

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Hello all,
Inherited a 272xp that wasn't running . No spark ended up being bad switch, changed coil and plug with oem for good measure. Set gap with business card. Bad gas cleaned out tank replaced gas line and rebuilt carb. Couldnt' find a filter locally so cleaned it in an ultrasonic cleaner and blew it out. Will not start, pulled plug seems dry.
Any suggestions would be appreciated
 
cabin16

cabin16

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Will try mix in the hole in the morning. Getting good spark, When I had the muffler off the piston looked beautiful no scoring at all. Impulse hose? Solid manifold? Not sure
Almost ready to break out the bow saw
 
weimedog

weimedog

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DO the standard stuff... carb kit and make certain (as was said already) the pulse circuit from cylinder through intake manifold "block" to carb is clear. One place to pay attention to is the gasket between the carb and manifold block... there is a really thin area between the impulse channel and actual intake port I've seen the gasket fail there. AND if the carb is plugged internally with dirt or corrosion that can drive you nuts as well. I've also been frustrated at times with a sticky needle (sticks in the seat) in those carbs.
 
Big_Wood

Big_Wood

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if you reused to gaskets for the intake it could be as simple as you installing one upside down plugging the impulse passage. don't take offense to this as i don't know your level of experience but i have also seen newbs rebuild carbs closing both needles pulling and pulling wondering why it won't even fart LOL.
 
cabin16

cabin16

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Ah, no offense taken. The gasket between the carb and the block has a small hole either side so it doesn't appear that orientation should matter. Is there a picture or exploded view some where that shows this detail?
Thanks for all your help, this site is pretty amazing , the knowledge that is freely shared here is first rate.
 
Big_Wood

Big_Wood

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the one in between the intake and cylinder is the one you wanna check out. if it didn't end up that far apart another possibility is the gasket slipped out of position.
 

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huskihl

huskihl

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When you rebuilt the carb, the metering diaphragm gasket goes on the carb first. Then the diaphragm. (Cant remember if the metering diaphragm sits flat on top of the needle or if theres a fork on the needle that the diaphragm sits into.) Then cover.
On the other side, the reed (or pump) diaphragm goes on first, then gasket, then the cover.
 
griffonks

griffonks

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Feed some mix into the cylinder head. Replace the spark plug. Pull the recoil choked once or twice then try it again unchoked.

If it won't bark then pull the muffler and look for scarring. Verify that the muffler is not plugged

If that's ok, verify spark at the electrode.

If that's ok check the flywheel.



Sent from my SCH-R530C using Tapatalk
 
griffonks

griffonks

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i just had the same problem it was a bad air leak not allow enough inpulse to work pump diaphragm see if this help
This is quite possible, especially at the o-ring on the pto oil pump seal.

But it should fire under prime if there's a leak.

Sent from my SCH-R530C using Tapatalk
 
backhoelover

backhoelover

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i had one leak so bad one time wasnt fueling carb matter of fact i have a 272 on the bench complete rebuild
oring is 1-1/4 x 1-1/8 x 1/16 that way you dont have to pay 3 to 10 dollars for a dang o ring
 
Oldsawnut

Oldsawnut

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Hmm something killing me I kill it back :)....Could be a lot of things... As mentioned before a little mix in the carb throat will narrow things down greatly.. Just make sure no starting fluid and not too much mix you don't want to flood it out. But you sound savy enough to know that anyhow :)
 
cabin16

cabin16

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Tied up with graduations this weekend, will try the mix directly into cylinder and then go from there. I'm pretty sure I did the carb rebuild properly, took some pictures and just reversed the process. The fact that the plug is dry seems to point to one of the airleak issues. I will soldier on and keep you guys posted. Thanks again for all the great information.
 

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