288xp for milling?

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Cowboy Tom

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Hey guys,

New to the site and milling lumber. Long story (I was able to stop them from hacking it into firewood...mercifully), but I've got 7 english walnut stumps to mill that are 24" to 35". Will try to cut most to gun stocks. Now, the biggest saw I've got is a good clean 288 with a 32" bar. My question, will I kill this saw when working through these stumps? This is a great saw but I would just as soon not waste it. I've read most of the threads on the topic and obviously, bigger is better.

Since I will only be doing this on occasion I'm not anxious to spend $ 1,000 or more on a big saw. So, my second question; is it worth trying to find an old Husky 2100 or Stihl 076 and hope you can find parts to keep them going?

Thanks, Tom
 
Hey guys,

My question, will I kill this saw when working through these stumps? This is a great saw but I would just as soon not waste it. I've read most of the threads on the topic and obviously, bigger is better.......

Thanks, Tom

I've used my 288 for milling and it did ok.....I've not milled walnut before so I don't know how hard it will be on your saw. If the saw is good shape and it will only see 'occasional use' then you're probably good to go. BUT...(and others will tell you as well) once you start milling you will be hooked. If you can - find a bigger saw - 066 / 394 / 395 to use as milling saw. Bigger is better!
 
And from what I have read you will need to run it richer.

Waylan

+1 That's not bad advice, too richen it up a hair. You lose a little power, but the saw runs cooler. I think your 288xp will be fine for what you want too do on those few logs that are quite short anyways. The rule of thumb I've always used when milling is too run the saw almost like I would (time wise) bucking large wood. In other words, 4-5 min then stop and idle down for a 30 seconds or a min, then another 4-5 min etc......Gives the oiler a chance too catch up a hair too. Razor sharp chain will also be helpful. :cheers:
 
If you decide to get a granberg mill, get the auxillary oiler. It makes a huge difference. I can tell as the tank is out that there is no oil going to the bar. The saw doesn't put out near enough oil in my opinion. That is when I am using the 36" bar and cutting thru +20" of wood.

I have cut oak, cherry, elm, maple, hickory and walnut with my stihl 066. I would say that as far as hardness go hickory then walnut are the hardest I have cut.

Chris
 
We ran RandyinLangley's 285 for some time before I got my 2100 going, and he converted his 285 to a 2100 top end. His saw did fine. A little bit slower, but it was well within the capability of the saw.

Just make sure you use a lot of bar oil, and after you come out of a cut, let the saw idle for a minute or two before you shut it down. That, and good fresh mix, coupled with a sharp chain should get you some lumber.

Nikko
 
Lots of good advice given so far. Ive never owned or ran a 288 but Ive heard nothing but good things about the quality of the saw. I think that you will be just fine, ive milled with a lot less saw, its just a little slower but very doable. When I first started milling I would have loved to have an 88cc saw. I say go for it!
 
Lots of good advice given so far. Ive never owned or ran a 288 but Ive heard nothing but good things about the quality of the saw. I think that you will be just fine, ive milled with a lot less saw, its just a little slower but very doable. When I first started milling I would have loved to have an 88cc saw. I say go for it!

+1 Dusty,

Your darned right about that! Since my 143MX went missing, I've used my Dolmar 120si with a 24" bar and it mills pretty good for a 70cc classer.
 
I have a 288 husky that mills just fine with a 32" bar.I have no problem running it all day in the mill.It's like using an 066.The piston is the same size.Mark
 
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