3120xp vs 880 Magnum???

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Compared to a ported 660, or 395 the 880's and 3120 are over weight, over priced, slow cutting pigs.
The 880, and 3120 only have 3 uses as a chainsaw mill, a hotsaw and as a stump saw for tree removal.
In every other application they will be out cut by a ported 395 or 660.

I've owned a couple 088's 084's and 3120's, and they suck stock, they suck to carry, they cut slow, they are pigs.

Your ported 90cc's saw will make a 880 or 3120 look really bad.

At over 1600$ new they're a huge waste of money.

The 3120 is probably the easiest chainsaw to work ever produced, if you can't completely
disassemble a 3120 in under 20 minutes you're an idiot.

They do have limited coils, but that's easily cured by a flywheel and coil swap.

Right now I own 2, 3120's and a 088.

Will a stock 395 or 660 run with a ported 80cc saw?? Like the 681 Solo
or the 181 Husky ??
 
Kudos for putting the spreadsheet together, but the manufacturer's power and weight numbers aren't known for being entirely accurate.

Very true. And it does not say anything about acceleration, torque, handling etc, hence my 4th "fact".
But the manufacturers' numbers are nevertheless the ONLY source of factual comparative data. Everything else is mere opinions, influenced by personal preference.

Furthermore, the difference btw MS 880 and CS 3120 is minimal, and should NOT be the deciding factor at all.
 
I've ran several 3120s, 125s, 084s, and 088/880s at gtgs. The 3120 and 084 are the best out of the newer saws. The mac 125 and dolmar 166 are awesome if you can find a good one and aren't going to use it all the time. I would rather use a 395 and a 42" bar over a 3120 or 880. I owned a 3120 and used it once in the woods and a few times bucking wood in a pile. It's was alright for the bucking but I don't want to have to drag one through the woods for any amount of time.
 
Very true. And it does not say anything about acceleration, torque, handling etc, hence my 4th "fact".
But the manufacturers' numbers are nevertheless the ONLY source of factual comparative data. Everything else is mere opinions, influenced by personal preference.

Furthermore, the difference btw MS 880 and CS 3120 is minimal, and should NOT be the deciding factor at all.

If none of the numbers are accurate how can you expect to make an accurate comparison? You're quoting "facts" and yet you admit that some, if not all, of your data is inaccurate.

How does an 880 have the best power to weight ratio if the power number is inflated and the weight is not in ready to run condition?

I could care less what a saw weighs empty with no bar, clutch cover, airfilter, etc. because I can't use it in that condition.
 
Save yourself a grand or so and get a big inch McCulloch like a 797, CP125 or SP125.

:agree2:


I've always had my eyes peeled for an SP125, but they're hard to find in usable condition.

You need to look harder or go with a SP125C. SP125Cs are fairly plentiful and SP125s aren't rare. Ron
 
If none of the numbers are accurate how can you expect to make an accurate comparison? You're quoting "facts" and yet you admit that some, if not all, of your data is inaccurate.

All I claim, is that these are the MOST ACCURATE OBJECTIVE DATA available. I have no reason to believe that Husqvarna is any more or less honest than STIHL.

Do you, by any chance, have information that is any more credible than the manufacturers' published data?

If you had cared to read my 4th "fact", it negates the value of all the previous ones. It doesn't make much sense using power/weight ratios to make buying decisions if they are this close.

How does an 880 have the best power to weight ratio if the power number is inflated and the weight is not in ready to run condition?

I could care less what a saw weighs empty with no bar, clutch cover, airfilter, etc. because I can't use it in that condition.

I see absolutely no problem making a comparison between the weight of two chainsaws without bar, chain, fuel and oil. Unless, of course, you believe that the weight of a bar/chain/fuel/oil is somehow heavier on one brand than another.

Do you have any credible evidence that makes you believe that STIHL inflate their data any more than Husqvarna?

I take it from your comments, that you are a Husky fan, no? :msp_sneaky:
 
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From a builders stand point which saw is easier to get gains out of? I know the 660 takes some work turning down to get number where they need to be but there isn't a whole lot on the big boys
 
All I claim, is that these are the MOST ACCURATE OBJECTIVE DATA available. I have no reason to believe that Husqvarna is any more or less honest than STIHL.

Do you, by any chance, have information that is any more credible than the manufacturers' published data?

If you had cared to read my 4th "fact", it negates the value of all the previous ones. It doesn't make much sense using power/weight ratios to make buying decisions if they are this close.

That's what you're missing, the data you're quoting is not objective. It skewed in the favor of the respective manufacturers. You're trying to give the impression that you've done some sort of empirical testing when what you've done is looked on the manufacturer's sites and put that info into a spreadsheet.

Why put a caveat at the end when you told him to go look at your compiled "data"? You've got all the numbers, how could anyone come to a different conclusion?

mortenh said:
I see absolutely no problem making a comparison between the weight of two chainsaws without bar, chain, fuel and oil. Unless, of course, you believe that the weight of a bar/chain/fuel/oil is somehow heavier on one brand than another.

That would be fine if that was how the manufacturers arrived at their published weights. As we've seen though, the published weights and the weights in the condition you describe often are different, sometimes significantly so.

mortenh said:
Do you have any credible evidence that makes you believe that STIHL inflate their data any more than Husqvarna?

I take it from your comments, that you are a Husky fan, no? :msp_sneaky:

I have just as much credible evidence as you, which is zero. What you should say is "Go look at my chart, it will give you a rough idea of the specs for the saws, " rather than quoting "facts".

I am a fan of reality, which your "facts" seem to avoid.
 
From a builders stand point which saw is easier to get gains out of? I know the 660 takes some work turning down to get number where they need to be but there isn't a whole lot on the big boys

This is the 2nd time you've established a new account after being banned. The next time you register a new account your ban will be permanent.
 
Local tree/ stump guy had a 3120, sold it and bought the 880. He ended up wanting the 3120 back. Kind of surprised me, with him being a Stihl guy and all. I do like the 3120, fun to run but have never spent a day cutting with one either.
 
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