.325 vs. .375 on a ported 50 cc saw. Which is better?

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Stihlman, I see you have an extra set of dogs on your 261 -- can you tell me more about that retrofit? The 261 as it ships here doesn't have holes or a recess for extra dogs, and I was going to look and see what it would take to work up a set.
 
I tell you what When Dull neither one cuts verywell. All jokin aside from what I've been able to determine on my 5100 (bone stock including spark screen) the only clear looser is the .325 7pin, and when the wood gets large or tough enough it wins.
Go head and tell me whut a ####stick I am , an stuff...
 
We did the same testing with the same model saw, and came up with different results. That's why it's always best to try your saw, in your wood, with your chain. BTW, neither vid with the .325 shows a proper load being put on the saw. You will not get the fastest cut time unless you put a good load on it, just as you found with the 8.50 cut using 3/8.

IIRC Brad, you tested in bigger timber. I'm not at all surprised that 3/8ths was faster in that small wood. Bury that 16" bar in hardwood, and I'd bet good money that, all else being equal, 0.325 is faster due to it's narrower kerf.
 
Just a guess on my part, but a couple inches can make a big difference.

Anyhow, if that video is representative of what you're going to be cutting, then 3/8ths looks like the best option. Sure is easier to sharpen 3/8ths chain!
 
Walnut is not oak but how much more wood would you run a 16" bar in? If you watched the video there is not much bar sticking out the end.
Exactly, Thats what I told SawTroll when he said both his 346 and 5100 were faster in 8" Birch with a 7 pin .325 than either a 7 pin 3/8ths or a 8 pim .325. Mines faster in anything the 16 tip sticks tru with either the 7 pin 3/8ths or 8 pin .325 ,Oak or Hickory.
Now, with a 72 D/l and rounds big enuff you have to overbuck the 7 pin is better and easy to swap with an inboard clutch.
Of course, most of us will just grab a bigger saw, and stuff.
 
I have had varied results, depending on the saw:

My 028 super pulls an 18" .325" with more authority than an 18" .375".
I have two 026's, and both pull the 16" .325" better than the equivalent in .375".

That said, both my 346xp and my ms261 pull a 16" .375" extremely well. I have tried a 16" .325" on the ms261 and the .375" "felt" noticably faster. I've never run .325" on my 346xp, so can't say.

To me, saving half a second in a cut doesn't make much difference - I really think either a saw has enough guts to pull 3/8" with authority or not - and if not you need to run .325". Just my worthless opinion.

Waylan
 
I have had varied results, depending on the saw:

My 028 super pulls an 18" .325" with more authority than an 18" .375".
I have two 026's, and both pull the 16" .325" better than the equivalent in .375".

That said, both my 346xp and my ms261 pull a 16" .375" extremely well. I have tried a 16" .325" on the ms261 and the .375" "felt" noticably faster. I've never run .325" on my 346xp, so can't say.

To me, saving half a second in a cut doesn't make much difference - I really think either a saw has enough guts to pull 3/8" with authority or not - and if not you need to run .325". Just my worthless opinion.

Waylan

A very good assessment from where I sit. :msp_thumbup:
 
Well, if it is much bigger than that, a 50 cc saw is not what I'm grabbing. :hmm3grin2orange:

I figure there's no need to split hairs on differences between 3/8ths and .325 cutting speed unless the 346 XP is a one saw plan. If you limb with a 346 XP, pick up a 372 XP to buck the trunk, and then reach for the 395 XP when you get to the butt, who cares which chain is 0.6 seconds faster on the 346 XP for cutting 9" cookies?

The great variable here may be the porting. It seems that a ported 346 XP is right on the cusp of the ability to pull 18-20 inch 3/8ths with enough authority to out-cut .325. Mastermind takes the 346 XP to the limit with a pop-up, maybe that accounts for the different results with 3/8ths on his saw?
 
I figure there's no need to split hairs on differences between 3/8ths and .325 cutting speed unless the 346 XP is a one saw plan. If you limb with a 346 XP, pick up a 372 XP to buck the trunk, and then reach for the 395 XP when you get to the butt, who cares which chain is 0.6 seconds faster on the 346 XP for cutting 9" cookies?

The great variable here may be the porting. It seems that a ported 346 XP is right on the cusp of the ability to pull 18-20 inch 3/8ths with enough authority to out-cut .325. Mastermind takes the 346 XP to the limit with a pop-up, maybe that accounts for the different results with 3/8ths on his saw?

I believe that is the point of the thread.
 
I believe that is the point of the thread.

I'll bring a couple of both to the GTG, I gots a carlton I'm right proud of cause it was a bear to git right.
Also got a wore out .325 widnsor that holds its own but ther ani't no meat left and the rakers are a mite low for my stockers.
 
Go .325!!!:rock:

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/presprLbfpU?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="480" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/bqAcDc9VsvU?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>
 
Go Oak!!!

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/M4J3254FU_I?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>

<iframe width="640" height="360" src="http://www.youtube.com/embed/vMr7stjdR7c?rel=0" frameborder="0" allowfullscreen></iframe>



FYI, I love any good running saw, and don't care what chain you run. I'm just enjoying the banter:) Go 346XP
 
BTW, that's just a ratty old worn out loop of .325 in that Poplar:rock: I think it had been filed once or twice!

754170465_gQDVU-M.jpg
 
Stihlman, I see you have an extra set of dogs on your 261 -- can you tell me more about that retrofit? The 261 as it ships here doesn't have holes or a recess for extra dogs, and I was going to look and see what it would take to work up a set.

The 361 bumper spikes that fit the 261

11356640501
11356640500

On the inside of the clutch cover under the nylon chain guide thingys there is hex cast into cover for the nuts but no holes.Drill the holes from the inside of the clutch cover 5 mm dia,put some tape on the outside or the clutch cover where the holes are going to come out this will stop ya chiping the paint or casting as you brake through,allso sit it on a bit of wood so the drill doesnt grag as ya brake through.
On the other side just remove the bumper spike and put on the new one.
If you are going to add a roller chain catcher from a 361 you will find that on the end of the rooler pin with the shoulder,you may need a small washer or two to pack the pin out a bit because it may not be long enough to locate in the hole on the other bumper spike.

Andrew
 

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