338XPT questions?

[Joeypole]

I bought a box of parts which now resembles a 338XPT.

Question #1:
The air purge up in the handle is broke (atleast it looks that way) and I got a new one. But there are no lines to it and the top of the carb has a factory looking rubber plug over it and the nipples where the lines would go on the purge are snipped real close. There is no bubble on it. Where there some early ones that didn't have the air purge bubble. It starts right up so I'm not worried about it, just wanted clarification.

The unit is a 2003 I believe by the serial number.


Question #2:

With the saw off, should the clutch drum/sprocket spin freely? Mine binds a little bit and doesn't spin freely. With the bar and chain on I can feel a little binding as well. I pulled the bearing to look at it and it looks fine with no metal or wood in it and its all there. I cleaned it again and put it back on and it still binds.

So should it spin freely or be a little tough to spin?

Thanks,
Joe

 

[Nitro-Fish]

Question 1: The previous owner probably replaced the tank/handle assembly, I've seen a few of these where the front end has taken a beating and the oil tank started leaking.

Question 2: Yes the clutch drum should spin freely (provided the bar & chain are out of the picture).

 

[pgg]

possibly a bent oilpump shaft, can happen on those saws if the adjuster screw was cranked down without first pushing the spring-loaded shaft forwards. Plastic oilworm usually strips if the pump binds too much

 

[Joeypole]

Worm gear was shot and I'm replacing the pump shaft as well. And the binding noise was me frying the worm gear I believe!!!!

I'm so confused on this one. I get the oiler system now and its pretty cool how it works (sorry I'm amused easily I guess and my wife didn't want to see it), but my tank/handle assembly does not match any parts diagram I have found. Still haven't figured out the purge system. Time for another parts order.


My tank has 502 82 05 on it.

It has a tank vent on the bottom of the tank with a line that goes to the top of the tank. Now the parts diagrams show a vent on the other side (clutch side). Now over there there is a hex head plug that had what looked to be teflon tape on it. It is threaded on the tank and looks to be there factory.


It runs great but doesn't oil and the cap on the top of the carb looks to be cut with a razor knife.

Anyone have anything like this? I can get around the purge even though it would be nice to have and I'm wondering where the heck it goes. But my tank has the goofy vent at the bottom on the clutch side.

Here are some pictures.

 

[Joeypole]

More pictures

 

[Joeypole]

So what do I have?

Here is the tag.

Before:

And assembled but not oiling!!!!

 

[pgg]

the purge system is just unnecessary clutter you're better off without anyway. that tank vent intake below the fuel level is husky's failed breather system. Bad stifled design that doesn't work properly. The other existing plugged hole can take a breather valve, that position co-insides with the top of the fuel level with saw sitting upright, some came with the breather valve there already, here's another way to improve their ditzy tank-vent system with a one-way valve in the lid

 

[Nitro-Fish]

possibly a bent oilpump shaft, can happen on those saws if the adjuster screw was cranked down without first pushing the spring-loaded shaft forwards. Plastic oilworm usually strips if the pump binds too much

Good call pgg, I forgot all about the oil pump problems on this model and I even had to replace the pump shaft on my 335xpt, it was broken completely in half! It was a bear to get out too, lots of patience involved with that fix. In the picture right before the picture of the carb, the white disc at the bottom of the tank/handle assembly should be the vent, there is a duckbill valve behind the white disc on my 335.

Agree on the purge bulb being unnecessary too, just another thing to go bad.

 

[Joeypole]

I am an expert in taking this thing apart now, LOL!!!!

I've had it apart about 4 times.

Thanks for the info on it. I've got a nice list of parts that I need to order and I'm ordering two of the worm gears.


When installing the worm gear, I'm guessing put the adjuster in from top after you put the pump shaft in and then the worm gear is last and it should just thread in?


I haven't ran it long enough to figure out if my tank vents are working!!

Thanks for the info again.

Joe