346 XP problems

[Big Block]

So my 346 has been temperamental the whole time I've owned it. The previous owner drilled behind the tank vent when it was the hot thing to do. He disclosed this and gave me directions on how to plug it. So I bought this at the same time I had Randy on the phone talking about my 372. He gave me the same advice on how to plug it and said he was drilling them out when making race saws.

Back on point I disassemble the 346 and black RTV the hole. Throw it back together and she runs good no more flooding when I'm felling anymore. Then I try and use it yesterday and it's got a wicked bog won't stay running hard to start. I burp the tank thinking I may have gotten heavy handed with the RTV. Then she seems to run good.

So I didn't gut the tank vent when I was in there. Is this what I need to do? I didn't read about any of this gutting the tank vent until after the fact.

On top of all that yesterday my case broke on my 372 at the bucking spike bolt

 

[sunfish]

The tank has to vent, so maybe ya got it too plugged up?

 

[Westboastfaller]

OK...I never have heard of the hole in the tank before? Too bad they didn't fit it for a line then all you would have had to do is feed it into the air box, pull the tank vent and 5 min approx it and put an air box vent in. Anyway that is the best thing to do then it's easy access and you can put on a superior vent. Brad had a thread asking for suggestions on a smaller inexpensive two-way vent for that purpose about 7-8 months back.
The one they decided on,
Echo puts out. Try bring up the thread.
Don't mess with the stock one by pulling the small stone. It's likely going to leak.

I would always use vented caps then they took them of the market about 8 yrs ago or so. The stock always freeze in the winter and I have to crack the gas cap sometimes under a minute time all day long.
So the Mechanic I worked closely with for years started putting the vents in the air box. I think most of mine were Stihl and about $18-25
I've done them too at his shop.

I believe the echo ones are a few bucks.
The way he showed me was use a long bit but (snug) smaller than the line
and drill through the top plate & tank on an angle backwards. on the same side as the existing line. Drill top plate bigger to fit the grommet.
Pull the tank part way off. Pull old vent then 5 min appoxy. Cut line on a super sharp angle and grease then feed with forceps.

The first few he just pulled the vent and drilled the existing hole and stuffed the line I'm certain then just stuffed the air box vent on.
Most of the saws were 3 series Husqvarna. All mine were 372 and 357. He did lots of 346 too. It was a standard package for saws going off the coast for winter work.

 

[Westboastfaller]

Anyway be did use the existing hole on some. Couldn't be certain anymore as to what that entails. A haven't being interested in playing around with saws much for years. I got burnt out being his crash test dummy on combinations of AM builds and parts before I came on this site. Sucks having to swap blown cylinders out after a days work in my camp room or chase down problems.
I am definitely a fan of drilling and stuffing the line in the top without fittings or anything to screw up or come out. It's a nice touch to get or have a saw like that.
You can try hit it with air if you haven't already possible for a quick fix but I hear they don't keep up on a mod saw anyway.

 

[Big Block]

OK...I never have heard of the hole in the tank before? Too bad they didn't fit it for a line then all you would have had to do is feed it into the air box, pull the tank vent and 5 min approx it and put an air box vent in. Anyway that is the best thing to do then it's easy access and you can put on a superior vent. Brad had a thread asking for suggestions on a smaller inexpensive two-way vent for that purpose about 7-8 months back.
The one they decided on,
Echo puts out. Try bring up the thread.
Don't mess with the stock one by pulling the small stone. It's likely going to leak.

I would always use vented caps then they took them of the market about 8 yrs ago or so. The stock always freeze in the winter and I have to crack the gas cap sometimes under a minute time all day long.
So the Mechanic I worked closely with for years started putting the vents in the air box. I think most of mine were Stihl and about $18-25
I've done them too at his shop.

I believe the echo ones are a few bucks.
The way he showed me was use a long bit but (snug) smaller than the line
and drill through the top plate & tank on an angle backwards. on the same side as the existing line. Drill top plate bigger to fit the grommet.
Pull the tank part way off. Pull old vent then 5 min appoxy. Cut line on a super sharp angle and grease then feed with forceps.

The first few he just pulled the vent and drilled the existing hole and stuffed the line I'm certain then just stuffed the air box vent on.
Most of the saws were 3 series Husqvarna. All mine were 372 and 357. He did lots of 346 too. It was a standard package for saws going off the coast for winter work.

Thanks I'll see if I can find the thread and give it a shot.

 

[Big_Wood]

OK...I never have heard of the hole in the tank before? Too bad they didn't fit it for a line then all you would have had to do is feed it into the air box, pull the tank vent and 5 min approx it and put an air box vent in. Anyway that is the best thing to do then it's easy access and you can put on a superior vent. Brad had a thread asking for suggestions on a smaller inexpensive two-way vent for that purpose about 7-8 months back.
The one they decided on,
Echo puts out. Try bring up the thread.
Don't mess with the stock one by pulling the small stone. It's likely going to leak.

I would always use vented caps then they took them of the market about 8 yrs ago or so. The stock always freeze in the winter and I have to crack the gas cap sometimes under a minute time all day long.
So the Mechanic I worked closely with for years started putting the vents in the air box. I think most of mine were Stihl and about $18-25
I've done them too at his shop.

I believe the echo ones are a few bucks.
The way he showed me was use a long bit but (snug) smaller than the line
and drill through the top plate & tank on an angle backwards. on the same side as the existing line. Drill top plate bigger to fit the grommet.
Pull the tank part way off. Pull old vent then 5 min appoxy. Cut line on a super sharp angle and grease then feed with forceps.

The first few he just pulled the vent and drilled the existing hole and stuffed the line I'm certain then just stuffed the air box vent on.
Most of the saws were 3 series Husqvarna. All mine were 372 and 357. He did lots of 346 too. It was a standard package for saws going off the coast for winter work.

346's, like all the other 3 series had the same hose vent passed a certain year. you never heard of the hole in the tank because it was drilled by someone who thought he would try fix an issue that wasn't there lol something tells me cody's 346 has a zama on it.

 

[Deleted member 117362]

So my 346 has been temperamental the whole time I've owned it. The previous owner drilled behind the tank vent when it was the hot thing to do. He disclosed this and gave me directions on how to plug it. So I bought this at the same time I had Randy on the phone talking about my 372. He gave me the same advice on how to plug it and said he was drilling them out when making race saws.

Back on point I disassemble the 346 and black RTV the hole. Throw it back together and she runs good no more flooding when I'm felling anymore. Then I try and use it yesterday and it's got a wicked bog won't stay running hard to start. I burp the tank thinking I may have gotten heavy handed with the RTV. Then she seems to run good.

So I didn't gut the tank vent when I was in there. Is this what I need to do? I didn't read about any of this gutting the tank vent until after the fact.

On top of all that yesterday my case broke on my 372 at the bucking spike bolt

Oversized spikes on 372?

 

[Big Block]

Oversized spikes on 372?

Nope I wish. Just the one inboard small one.

 

[Big Block]

346's, like all the other 3 series had the same hose vent passed a certain year. you never heard of the hole in the tank because it was drilled by someone who thought he would try fix an issue that wasn't there lol something tells me cody's 346 has a zama on it.

I'll go look at the carb now

 

[Big_Wood]

I'll go look at the carb now

i noticed after your saw is listed as an NE in your sig so it will have a zama if not tampered with. if it's done any sitting it's almost guaranteed that carb needs a kit.

 

[Big Block]

EL32
151A

That's all I can see on the carb

 

[Big Block]

i noticed after your saw is listed as an NE in your sig so it will have a zama if not tampered with. if it's done any sitting it's almost guaranteed that carb needs a kit.

Ya it sat all summer.

 

[Big_Wood]

Ya it sat all summer.

if the carb was fresh before, sitting for the summer would not do anything to it. if you don't know when that carb was rebuilt last it almost certainly needs a rebuild. the pump diaphragm in those carbs are garbage.

 

[Big Block]

if the carb was fresh before, sitting for the summer would not do anything to it. if you don't know when that carb was rebuilt last it almost certainly needs a rebuild. the pump diaphragm in those carbs are garbage.

Is there a better carb setup?

 

[Big_Wood]

there is a walbro model i forget but it requires no purge bulb and the venturi is much smaller. the zama does fine when they work, they just need the pump diaphragm replaced more often.

 

[sunfish]

I use walbro 199 or 191 on all my 346s'.

 

[blsnelling]

you never heard of the hole in the tank because it was drilled by someone who thought he would try fix an issue that wasn't there lol

I've seen numerous 346s that would run lean in the cut until the tank vent was modded.

 

[Big_Wood]

I've seen numerous 346s that would run lean in the cut until the tank vent was modded.

somebody on the internet wanted them to sound so bad ass that their tank vents couldn't keep up lol.