357XP Replace cylinder or just piston? (Pics)

Arborist Forum

Help Support Arborist Forum:

This site may earn a commission from merchant affiliate links, including eBay, Amazon, and others.
Well as an experiment I installed the $30 rebuild kit. It was listed for the 357/359. The design appears different from OEM but maybe that's how the head on a 359 looks. Of note the transfer ports are much smaller than the 357 OEM head. Hyway appears to have even bigger transfer ports than OEM but their prices are about the same as OEM. It's also a larger 47mm jug. I also installed the after market Zama carb.

IDK how much the difference in design makes. But if this is a big deal then it looks like Hyway or OEM are the only options.
transfer port 1.jpgtransfer port 2.jpg


The saw started second pull. The top RPM was much lower than stock. I could not get any adjustment out of the Zama carb because the cap limiters only allow for a 1/2 turn before hitting things. So I tossed the Walbro Carb back in and it starts first pull and runs reasonably well.

Here is a vid of the $30 rebuild kit running:



What do people think of how this looks/ sounds?

To me it's prob 80%? The top RPM seems lower, power seems a bit less, responsiveness seems a bit less. But it's close enough it could just be my imagination. Anyone think some carb adjustment would help or does it sound pretty good? I am not that savvy on how to adjust the carb, the screws did not seem to want to move much and I didn't want to force the matter with a little flat head. I think husky makes a special tool?

I imagine this rebuild kit prob turns your 357xp into a 359?

Could I reinstall the original cylinder with that degree of plating loss by the exhaust port?

I have heard of cutting the limit stops off the Zama for a 357xp. Will this work or should I stick to the Walbro and drill a hole in it as people here say?

Seeing the difference in the design I would say anyone considering the $30 rebuild kits should prob spend the money for the Hyway or OEM.
 
80% may be pretty good for that AM kit. The easiest way to get more out of it is opening up the bottom transfers and delete the gasket if you're using one. Plenty of threads on porting a 350/359. One could use a cutting bit in a drill or even files if they don't have a rotary tool.
 
Agree, may have missed it, but where did he state, case was vacuum checked? Throwing new or low grade p/c kits on an air leaking case will always end bad.
What is the procedure for vacuum checking the case and where can one get the supplies for that? I did notice that the bolts on the head we're not very tight when I took it off. Perhaps it was an air leak?

Video fixed
 
What is the procedure for vacuum checking the case and where can one get the supplies for that? I did notice that the bolts on the head we're not very tight when I took it off. Perhaps it was an air leak?

Video fixed

Remove muffler and carb. Block both intake, exhaust, compression release, spark plug hole and draw vacuum through impulse line. Should hold 7 lbs of vacuum. If not find leak.
 
That's an easy answer...... OEM saw, put an oem cylinder on it. Unless it was my saw, or one I didn't want to sell......

Is my oem cylinder toast?

If so are the 47mm "big bore" hyway's a better option than oem or should I just buy the oem top end?

As for pressure testing... any tricks or does one need to purchase a kit with the saw port adapter plugs? I could just take it to a saw shop and ask if they would do it I guess.
 
Is my oem cylinder toast?

If so are the 47mm "big bore" hyway's a better option than oem or should I just buy the oem top end?

As for pressure testing... any tricks or does one need to purchase a kit with the saw port adapter plugs? I could just take it to a saw shop and ask if they would do it I guess.
Do you have a mityvac or access to one? Make a gasket to mount behind muffler to close port or you can use duct tape, couple layer over exhaust port and install muffler. Make sure to plug decompression valve. Cover intake and pull vacuum from impulse port under intake port. Don't laugh duct tape works and you can plug intake with your thumb. You could cover both intake, impulse ports and pull vacuum from spark plug or decompression holes.
 
Is my oem cylinder toast?

If so are the 47mm "big bore" hyway's a better option than oem or should I just buy the oem top end?

As for pressure testing... any tricks or does one need to purchase a kit with the saw port adapter plugs? I could just take it to a saw shop and ask if they would do it I guess.
I'd say so..... How much you want for the rest of the saw?
 

Latest posts

Back
Top