357xp tank vent or other possible problem

[AZLOGGER]

Gentlemen: Here is another fix for the fuel tank venting problem, get the oil tank cap for a 2100 saw and replace your fuel tank cap with this cap. The 2100 oil cap is a vented cap and will work great as a fuel cap, (venting problem solved)!

Husqvarna 2100 oil cap part#501 56 45-02

 

[wkpoor]

They can be bad new as well. It should have been a warranty item.

Yes maybe it should have but here is what would have happened.......
I would have taken my saw to a dealer and dropped it off. Because I didn't buy it there they would have stuck it on the shelf for at least a day or two or maybe longer or whenever they felt like getting around to it. Then they would have made a few carb adjustments called me up to come and get it telling me all was fine. Loss use of the saw for about a week already. Then after it quit on me in the field ( and by now I'm real pissed off ) I would have to drive back and drop it off again. All in all they would end up pricking with it for days and I would have drivin back and forth countless times before it was fixed only after I suggest they look into the tank vent. Been there done this before with other things. It's always easier to just at least diagnose it myself first and only go in if the fix is expensive. I don't even take my cars back if I can help it because its always the same old song and dance. Nobody can fix anything the first time. I don't really blame them but guaranteed if I went in and said the tank vent must be bad they would say " well we've never heard of that before"

 

[deezle_dog]

Since you have the newer style vent with the hose that routes into the air box I would check the flow through the nipple that the vent line goes to in the air box. The hole in the nipple is very small and can clog pretty easily.

I have seen some brand new that the hole is almost closed tight with plastic flash.

I also did that. The hole is slightly smaller than 1/16", and I ran a 1/16" drill bit through the hole so I could knock the guts out of the vent with the back side of the drill bit.

Also good info on the vented fuel cap.

Thanks
Deezle

 

[PES+]

Yes maybe it should have but here is what would have happened.......
I would have taken my saw to a dealer and dropped it off. Because I didn't buy it there they would have stuck it on the shelf for at least a day or two or maybe longer or whenever they felt like getting around to it. Then they would have made a few carb adjustments called me up to come and get it telling me all was fine. Loss use of the saw for about a week already. Then after it quit on me in the field ( and by now I'm real pissed off ) I would have to drive back and drop it off again. All in all they would end up pricking with it for days and I would have drivin back and forth countless times before it was fixed only after I suggest they look into the tank vent. Been there done this before with other things. It's always easier to just at least diagnose it myself first and only go in if the fix is expensive. I don't even take my cars back if I can help it because its always the same old song and dance. Nobody can fix anything the first time. I don't really blame them but guaranteed if I went in and said the tank vent must be bad they would say " well we've never heard of that before"

I can understand that.

The quality of the dealer is important.

The same can happen with any brand of saw.

The tank vents are a well known issue with Huskies and Jonsered with any dealer that does any kind of volume and quality diagnosis and repair.

There are also some problems with leaking oil pump housings but both problems are not wide spread.

The other issue with the new remote type vent which runs a line back into the air box is the ends can break off the vent housing at the tank when the saw is pulled hard against the AV mounts or jerked hard clearing a pinch.

I do agree that the vent problems seem to be getting more common and hopefully will be addressed.

In the remote vents if the nipple inside the air box plugs too often you can pull the hose off the nipple and just let it lay in the air box.

The new vents do not make any sense that I can see since they are still vented to the outside but now to the space between the case and the tank so as far as emissions goes I see zero point.

 

[wkpoor]

I went to the Husky web site and located dealers in a 50mi radius. Only one had a wrench symbol. I figure the others must just sell them and don't do much servicing. I called the one with the wrench up and he said just put a drywall screw in the hose :jawdrop:

A week ago I took my Father-In-Law's new Echo in for a problem and watched as the guy took the saw in the back ( I followed ) and preceded to work on it on the floor of the shop next to a lawn tractor with grass clippings all over the floor where they had cleaned out from under the deck. I left and just said call me when its done. I knew what the scoop would be. Got it home and it ain't no better. Told FIL I wouldn't let them fix anything of mine. He hasn't said yet if he wants me to look into it or what.

So as you can see why my attitude is such for taking my saws back to a dealer for service. And these are warranty saws. I would hate to be paying for such bad service. I just need to find me a good repair shop I can trust.

 

[Poley4]

On the 306A you have a bad needle and seat seal, a soft lever spring and possibly a leaky governor valve or all of the above.

Pressure test the carburetor and see if it will hold pressure.

PES+,
I have a Tillotson HS series manual and there isn't any specs on pressure testing. How much pressure should it hold? I recently rebuilt this carb and it seems to run fine with the exception of the flooding issue when sitting warm unless you vent the tank. Yes, I agree there's something wrong. Also you mentioned a governor valve, I'm looking at the carb schematic and I'm not seeing one. What am I looking for? I have seen in an old Poulan brochure that they were "speed governed". Any help would be appreciated.

 

[PES+]

It should hold to well past 15 PSI

Take the carb back off and remove the metering diaphram and the cover so you can see the needle and lever.

with fuel or WD 40 in the chamber, pump up the fuel inlet and look for bubbles around the needle you need to do this several times and manually kick the lever to release pressure to see if the needle seats and seals every time.

Watch the fuel and or WD 40 spray when you kick the lever or if it pops off on it's own too soon as it sprays quite far and can blind you pretty easily if you are not careful.

If the needle walls are worn the needle can tilt and not seal well in the seat.

This kind of wear was common on solidly mounted carbs on engines where the engine vibrations are transmitted directly into the carb. (the 306 carb is mounted right to the metal reed plate)

If you can't get the carb to hold any pressure and the needle is sealing properly the problem is in the governor.

The carb should hold 15 lbs or better and the needle should not drop at all.

The governor is the brass screw right behind the choke shaft but they are difficult to remove as the threads are glued to seal the threads.....don't bother to try to remove it unless you have too.

 

[Poley4]

It should hold to well past 15 PSI

Take the carb back off and remove the metering diaphram and the cover so you can see the needle and lever.

with fuel or WD 40 in the chamber, pump up the fuel inlet and look for bubbles around the needle you need to do this several times and manually kick the lever to release pressure to see if the needle seats and seals every time.

Watch the fuel and or WD 40 spray when you kick the lever or if it pops off on it's own too soon as it sprays quite far and can blind you pretty easily if you are not careful.

If the needle walls are worn the needle can tilt and not seal well in the seat.

This kind of wear was common on solidly mounted carbs on engines where the engine vibrations are transmitted directly into the carb. (the 306 carb is mounted right to the metal reed plate)

If you can't get the carb to hold any pressure and the needle is sealing properly the problem is in the governor.

The carb should hold 15 lbs or better and the needle should not drop at all.

The governor is the brass screw right behind the choke shaft but they are difficult to remove as the threads are glued to seal the threads.....don't bother to try to remove it unless you have too.

Thanks man, I appreciate it! I will check it out.

 

[hornett22]

ship it to me and pay shipping back.

I went to the Husky web site and located dealers in a 50mi radius. Only one had a wrench symbol. I figure the others must just sell them and don't do much servicing. I called the one with the wrench up and he said just put a drywall screw in the hose :jawdrop:

A week ago I took my Father-In-Law's new Echo in for a problem and watched as the guy took the saw in the back ( I followed ) and preceded to work on it on the floor of the shop next to a lawn tractor with grass clippings all over the floor where they had cleaned out from under the deck. I left and just said call me when its done. I knew what the scoop would be. Got it home and it ain't no better. Told FIL I wouldn't let them fix anything of mine. He hasn't said yet if he wants me to look into it or what.

So as you can see why my attitude is such for taking my saws back to a dealer for service. And these are warranty saws. I would hate to be paying for such bad service. I just need to find me a good repair shop I can trust.

and i'll fix it for free.