Thanks Randy, you are indeed one of the valuable resources on this website. I hope his problems are resolved quickly.
562xp Hesitation Question
- Thread starter Locust Cutter
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Thanks Randy, you are indeed one of the valuable resources on this website. I hope his problems are resolved quickly.
Locust Cutter
Sawing for Sanity
MustangMike,
I appreciate your concern. As soon as I get a few priority bills paid, I will be sending it to Randy or Terry and very much appreciate both offering to help me. I could ship it now, but I need to save up the money to have the saw hot-rodded while there. After having run a ported 562, there is no going back. I can't in good faith ship it to TN, just to get it fixed and have it come back un-ported... That's just wrong.
Randy and Terry,
Do either of you cut the bases or do you do pop-ups? I ask because I like the concept of a lowered cylinder better than a pop-up, although it's based off of theoretical assumptions on my part.
I appreciate your concern. As soon as I get a few priority bills paid, I will be sending it to Randy or Terry and very much appreciate both offering to help me. I could ship it now, but I need to save up the money to have the saw hot-rodded while there. After having run a ported 562, there is no going back. I can't in good faith ship it to TN, just to get it fixed and have it come back un-ported... That's just wrong.
Randy and Terry,
Do either of you cut the bases or do you do pop-ups? I ask because I like the concept of a lowered cylinder better than a pop-up, although it's based off of theoretical assumptions on my part.
Mastermind
Work Saw Specialist
I don't do pop ups in any engines anymore, but the end result is too close to say one is better than the other. I'm just used to my setup, and that's the reason I always cut squish.
we both cut the cylinder base. randy cuts the combustion chamber and i do a pop up piston. theres only a hand full of saws that i cut the chamber on. i will not cut the chamber on a 562xp or a 550xp. its not required to make one run well. if your looking for yours to have the chamber cut them randy is your man.send it to him he does good work.
Locust Cutter
Sawing for Sanity
Not trying to open a different can of worms but is a pop-up additional material added to the crown of the piston? If so, would that not not tax the crank bearings more than otherwise (granted modding any saw takes it well beyond design spec/expectations)... I don't mean to be obtuse, I'm simply looking for a modded work saw and am trying to learn the modification difference(s) between a work saw and a cookie cutter, as I just need a good work saw.
Hey, I am glad if I was of some help, but I am not the knowledge base on this website. Proud to be part of it though, it is nice to know we have experts available when a problem arises. That is the beauty of belonging to this website.
So tell me, how did the ported 562 run compared to stock? Obviously you were impressed. I started a Thread on ported 362s, but there has been very little response. Seems like Stihl 261s and 441s get all the attention, and in the 60 cc class the 562 is the star. I think part of it is that M-Tronic is so new on the 362. The saw is very strong stock, but I always want a little more!
Best of Luck with your saw, and keep us posted.
MustangMike
Locust Cutter
Sawing for Sanity
The biggest thing I miss about my old mm'ed 039 was the torque. My 562 has very good top-end, but doesn't quite pull the same (by my determination anyway) as the 039. The ported version spun up a bit faster than mine does (when not acting up) but really shined in the cut, the way it held RPM a good deal better than mine in 16" and bigger wood. It really was the missing piece of the puzzle to be the saw that I really wanted. I won't bash or brag on a 362 as I've only run one, once, to buck a 6" tree and the chain was toast... Not a fair test for that or any saw in any way. I like the feel of them and was raised on Stihl (after Mac's anyway), I simply liked the feel of the Husky a bit better. I would like to spend a day with a 362M-tronic, Dolmar 6100 and an Echo CS-600P, in a Hedge row to put them all through their paces and see if there truly was a clear winner, or loser to me, although I'll bet that they're all fine machines.
sunfish
Fish Head
Pop-up is done by turning down the edge of the piston. This gets the squish & timing where it needs to be after lowering the cylinder.
Stumpy was the one adding material to the top of the piston, but he stopped that pretty quick.
Locust Cutter, thanks for that feedback. I think AutoTune & M-Tronic are like stage one in improving a saw (to give it more power in the cut) and porting is like stage 2. I can't imagine my 362 would cut as well as it does w/o M-Tronic, and the feedback from individuals who have run 441s both with and without it support that viewpoint.
Sunfish, thanks for that info regarding cutting the piston edge to maintain proper timing, it all makes more sense now. However, as a "car" guy chainsaw engines still seem like mythical beasts to me. I don't know how you get away with removing stock from either a piston or crank without having the saw re-balanced, but apparently they do. I would not think of doing it with a car engine, and they only go to about 7,000 RPM. The chainsaw does 14,000, and no separate oil for the bearings, absolutely mystical!
Sunfish, thanks for that info regarding cutting the piston edge to maintain proper timing, it all makes more sense now. However, as a "car" guy chainsaw engines still seem like mythical beasts to me. I don't know how you get away with removing stock from either a piston or crank without having the saw re-balanced, but apparently they do. I would not think of doing it with a car engine, and they only go to about 7,000 RPM. The chainsaw does 14,000, and no separate oil for the bearings, absolutely mystical!
sunfish
Fish Head
Mike, removing weight from the piston is a good thing in a 2 stroke, adding weight is not so good. These saws have roller bearings on the rod & crank, where car engines have bushing type bearings pumped up with oil pressure. Take the oil away and the car engine dies very quick. The roller bearings can run for awhile with little or no oil, but the piston can't. Roller bearings are great for very high RPM also.
A.E. Metal Werx
Addicted to ArboristSite
Pop-up is done by turning down the edge of the piston. This gets the squish & timing where it needs to be after lowering the cylinder.
Stumpy was the one adding material to the top of the piston, but he stopped that pretty quick.
I've done 2 welded pop ups on 025s they gained a lot. Just gotta make sure to try and remove as much as you add from other places. I'm no pro by any means but some times there's no other option. Plus I like to weld on random things..
sunfish
Fish Head
Yep, it works. Removing what you add is key to it working.I've done 2 welded pop ups on 025s they gained a lot. Just gotta make sure to try and remove as much as you add from other places. I'm no pro by any means but some times there's no other option. Plus I like to weld on random things..
I've done 2 welded pop ups on 025s they gained a lot. Just gotta make sure to try and remove as much as you add from other places. I'm no pro by any means but some times there's no other option. Plus I like to weld on random things..
That 428 is not referring to the old FE Cobra Jet is it?
A.E. Metal Werx
Addicted to ArboristSite
No,
Really has no relevance to anything. Just a user name I picked 10-15 years ago. Never really planned when I joined to be very active. Just had a few saw questions but have been hooked ever since. Probably would change the name if I could.
Locust Cutter
Sawing for Sanity
Ok... That's why I was asking as I remember the results of some of that early work... Well, to be equitable, as soon as money allows, I will send the 261 to Randy and the 562 to Terry in order to spread the patronage.Pop-up is done by turning down the edge of the piston. This gets the squish & timing where it needs to be after lowering the cylinder.
Stumpy was the one adding material to the top of the piston, but he stopped that pretty quick.
Junkfxr
ArboristSite Operative
Well if your replacement saw has no issues, then there must be something more to it than the EL46
. . . . Hamish said he thinks Mapping may be the issue. Perhaps a combination of EL46 AND Mapping?
Please let us know how she runs asap.
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Well, I got a chance to take the new replacement saw out yesterday morning to cut a chestnut oak off of a fence. The tree was 30"+ diameter well over 12 feet up and I have a 20 inch bar so it was buried a great deal of the time. The temperature was in the mid 30's. Just like the old saw, it was really angry at the tree before it warmed up and stayed angry the whole time as long as it was at WOT. When I pulled the bar out of the cut after a few cuts and things were getting good and warm, let off of the throttle and the saw went back to idle at what sounded like 4000-5000 rpm. Interesting. Lets see how long it'll do this. Took most of a minute before it went back to normal idle. Hit the throttle for the next cut and it stumbled BAD, just like the old one. In fact, every time that I hit the throttle after idling, it would have the same huge hesitation if it didn't die. On one occasion, I sat it down to move some brush and it was idling just fine, then it died for no apparent reason. Had to use full choke to get it restarted. I did notice a puff of black smoke from time to time when it would hesitate coming off of idle, that sounds a little rich to me but it acted lean when it died idling. Does anybody know why the switch from EL44 to EL46 carbs? Emissions, hesitation, some other issues? This is two saws from different dealers that are doing the same thing. This sure is aggravating and getting old fast. I've heard from several different sources that Husky is working on a fix, sure wished they'd hurry up. I like the way that this saw handles and cuts when it's running good and want to keep it but I'm getting a little fed up with it.
I believe some of our Gurus on this website have identified the problem and several of our Saw Builders know how to fix it, so you may want to contact them. Can't help you as to when Husky will catch up, bummer that you got 2 bad saws in a row. Confirms my suspicion that the problem is more with the newer saws than with the older ones. It is a shame, because everyone that has one that runs right is in love with that saw. I personally think the new Stihl Ms 362 C-M is just as good, but I have never run a 562. However, there is another member who has one of each, and he agreed with my assessment.
Good luck with your saw.
Junkfxr, go see the posts at the end of the Thread "Anyone port a MS 362 C-M yet?" There is video regarding fixing your carb.
Ljute
Free Teak
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