920 No spark

[Soby1]

I lost spark on my 920.Took it apart checked the wires all was good.Pulled the wire from the kill switch on what I would call the pickup coil or cdi next to the flywheel and ohmed it between the saw case and the coil terminal and it was closed.I'm thinking that should be open unless the kill switch is hooked up and in the off position.A friend stopped at a Jred dealer that has a lot of used parts (new parts are N/A) and talked with the tech there he said he had nothing used that were any good sounded like a common problem.Then he dug the books out and started looking and found that the Husky model 181 188 281 288 ignition parts looked the same as the 920 parts.He thought but was not 100% sure they used the same setup.Those parts are still available for the Husky.Has anyone ever done the swap?I found the 920 in a dumpster and got it running and it ran great when it had spark so I don't mind throwing a few bucks at it if it will work.

 

[bama]

Not sure about the compatability. Maybe someone else has checked this out. But, there is a NEW one on eBay right now.

 

[Soby1]

Thanks for the reply bama,I don't claim to be the sharpest dart in the bar when it comes to computers but I did a search on ebay found everything but the coil for the saw.Would you have a link by chance?Or am I to late?
Thanks again Soby

 

[PB]

Here is the link to the one I think Bama is talking about.

http://cgi.ebay.com/Jonsered-electr...ryZ85915QQssPageNameZWDVWQQrdZ1QQcmdZViewItem

It is for a 910E, different part numbers. Not sure if it will work or not, bama will know, or Spike.

 

[PES+]

Yes.....that one will work.

You should read 3 ohms = or - a tenth or so between the kill switch terminal on the coil and saw frame.

double check.

I have used modules and coils for them if you need and don't win that module.

The 288 stuff also works but new very $$$$$$ (module around $70)

Check your wiring for continuity from the module output to the transformer/ignition coil terminal under the air cleaner and make sure it is not shorted to frame.

There should be around 1 ohm between the input to the transformer/coil terminal and ground.

I call it a transformer but Husky calls it a coil. (and now price it around $80!)

Also check to make sure the rear screw that holds the transformer/coil is making a solid ground connection with the frame as this rear screw is the ground point.

 

[Soby1]

Thanks for the reply's...PES I'm pretty sure my meter zeroed out between the kill switch terminal and case but I will double check when I get home this afternoon.The wireing is in good shape thats what was wrong with it when I rescued it from the dumpster.I went through and pulled the coil under the air cleaner all connections were clean and tight.If I read zero between the coil terminal and the case am I on the right track thinking my (pickup coil) crapped out?
Again thanks for the reply's
Soby

 

[spike60]

Yes.....that one will work.

You should read 3 ohms = or - a tenth or so between the kill switch terminal on the coil and saw frame.

double check.

I have used modules and coils for them if you need and don't win that module.

The 288 stuff also works but new very $$$$$$ (module around $70)

Check your wiring for continuity from the module output to the transformer/ignition coil terminal under the air cleaner and make sure it is not shorted to frame.

There should be around 1 ohm between the input to the transformer/coil terminal and ground.

I call it a transformer but Husky calls it a coil. (and now price it around $80!)

Also check to make sure the rear screw that holds the transformer/coil is making a solid ground connection with the frame as this rear screw is the ground point.

Good advice Pest.

When checking the ground, get some 400/600 grit sandpaper and clean up the contact surfaces on both the coil and where it mounts on the crankcase.

This spark problem is probably why the thing went in the dumpster to begin with.