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r62ewa

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Quite a Newb question but I want to be 100% sure, so here it is.

I run a chain on my husky with a .325" pitch, .050 gauge and use a 3/16" chainsaw file. The reason I am asking these questions is that I'm looking at buying a file kit from husky that says it's for a .325" pitch chain.

First question: If it's a .325" pitch chain does that mean it will use a 3/16" file?

Second question: Does it matter what the guage is for filing purposes, wouldn't it only require you have the correct pitch?

Here's the kit I'm looking at buying, I'm looking for assurance it's the correct one for the chain I mentioned I am running,

http://cgi.ebay.ca/ws/eBayISAPI.dll...57910&_sacat=See-All-Categories&_fvi=1&_rdc=1

Thanks in advance
 
Thanks guys, but any insight into my questions, would the kit I was looking at being the correct one for my chain?

I'm looking at the husky one because it also has the depth gauge but I am very open to other kits if they are just as effective, but I want the depth guage as well.
 
Every chain manufcaturer has their own specs. You need to check and determine what size and any specifics on how to file each one. I use this file guide on my .325 and I use a 3/16 file. I use Oregon 95VP (same as Hq. H30 I believe). On this chain the manufacturer suggests a 10 degree down handle while filing. The guide automatically provides for this. Other man. may suggest flat across (90 degree across the top(no down handle)). With the Oregon guide (Stihl has one too) you have to eye ball the 10 degree down handle. Some will say that the down handle thing doesn't mean anything and just file straight across. Each to his own.

I get very good results off this guide. However, I am anal about keeping chain sharp. Every tank full finds me touching up the chain. I believe the trick to sharping a chain is to never let it get dull.

Later,
 
As far as filing goes , the gauge doesn't matter. Gauge is the thickness of the drive link where it rides in the bar groove, nothing to do with the teeth.:spam:
 
Thanks Daddy66, that's what I thought as well and was thrown off a little by the Ebay listing I was looking at where he stated the gauge, I figured that wouldn't affect it but wanted to be sure.
 
Be carefull on which kit you get , because there is a Pixel version of that kit as well and the pic on the ebay link you provided is for the pixel version.
 
Pixel version? Meaning that it's not actually Husqvarna?

This site is so great, the knowledge that can be tapped into is amazing!

Trigger Man, I'm coming to Nova Scotia this week for a week on vacation and would love to know if there is any good places to shop for chainsaw gear such as these file guides, depth gauges, etc.

I may just have to look for the Husqvarna file guide with depth gauge attachment as that is the part I am interested in, I don't really need the files and handles.

I'm just getting my feet wet with filing and want to become more proficient at it. I was using a dremel but want to be able to get good at it using a file and guide, back to basics more so.
 
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I'm currently using Stihl Oilomatic chains, .325", .058, 15" on my Husky 351. I usually order them from a place in Wolfville, NS.
 
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I think the file gauge you want is the non pixel one, You can buy them separate without the files. The part # 505 69 81-09. I'm not really up on stihl chain but, I would assume that the chain your running is not Pixel(narrow kerf)


You can use this file gauge with Oregon 20lp,21lp and 22lp chain.
The guages work good for sharpening, the depth gauge is not really that great but it will work.
 
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Now knowing the difference between a standard and Pixel chain I see in the Ebay listing that it is indeed for a Pixel chain.

Thanks Trigger Man for pointing that out and saving me some money!
 
I know these kind of gauges
attachment.php

are easy to use but all they do is to create a constant depth raker which eventually leads to poorer and poorer cutting performance.
As a cutter wears the raker depth need to be filed down much further than what these gauges provide.

The Husky or Carlton file-o-plate gauges are better but will still become less effective with cutter wear, The best chain performance through out the life of a chain is obtained by fully progressive raker depths - see the sticky above on FOPs - there's a bit of fluff and dross so you have to wade your way thru it a bit before you get the point.
 
Thanks BobL. I did read through it once so far but will definitely have to take a second and possibly third read. I will admit as well I didn't know what FOP stood for and all the terms are quite new to me so with the bit of info I'm starting to put together reading it again now means it'll probably make more sense to me.

Thanks for the input.
 

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