A primer on drying?

[JFRees]

I had my first slabbing experience yesterday on a cherry tree - I much appreciate everything I've read on the site. I did a quick search for drying and am not exactly sure how to get started. The log was about 5 feet long and 24" across and I've cut two slabs at 2". I have more to go but want to get the stack started. Can I just "rebuild" the log with stickers? Should I rip the slabs to narrower pieces? It would be great if someone could give that A-Z on drying but I'll take what I can get.

I live in a suburb of NYC so my plot is pretty much a postage stamp; I don't have a lot of room to give but want to be successful.

It's been a lot of fun and a tree across the street has the town's "marked for death" sign on it. I hope I'm around to get a piece that maple!

 

[dustytools]

I had my first slabbing experience yesterday on a cherry tree - I much appreciate everything I've read on the site. I did a quick search for drying and am not exactly sure how to get started. The log was about 5 feet long and 24" across and I've cut two slabs at 2". I have more to go but want to get the stack started. Can I just "rebuild" the log with stickers? Should I rip the slabs to narrower pieces? It would be great if someone could give that A-Z on drying but I'll take what I can get.

I live in a suburb of NYC so my plot is pretty much a postage stamp; I don't have a lot of room to give but want to be successful.

It's been a lot of fun and a tree across the street has the town's "marked for death" sign on it. I hope I'm around to get a piece that maple!

Seal the ends of your boards with 2 to 3 coats of latex paint, this will slow down the drying on the ends and help to prevent checking. Yes, you can just stack it as it comes off of the log with stickers evey 16" to 18" apart with the ones on the ends being about an inch or so from the end of the board. The width of the boards will depend on what you are planning on doing with the boards. The wider the board the more likely it will want to cup. Placing weight on your stacks or strapping them will help to minimize movement. Good luck. Welcome to AS!!

 

[Adkpk]

Welcome JF. 18" off the ground, stickers should be at least an inch placed 16" apart and try to keep them lined up. Depending on the weather conditions and what you cover the pile with (canvas, plastic, plywood) should be nicely dried in 4-6 months. Yes just restack the log and 2" inches is a very good thickness for drying size.

What's your milling setup?

 

[JFRees]

My milling setup

For starters, the tree I slabbed had just died and I had a professional take it down. I have a too small woodshop in my basement but cherry is expensive and difficult to find locally so I thought I'd try my hand. I bought an Alaskan MK3 but didn't own a chain saw. Based on what I read here, I wanted a saw that I could put a 30" inch bar in and I shopped eBay for a used one. No luck.

I went to a local Stihl dealer and the saw I wanted was close to a grand - I didn't think my wife would be happy with that choice - and I probably won't use it that much - so I bought an MS390 and had a 25" bar put on it. Frankly, it was a little too short for the log so I ended up having to chop out some space for the mill, cut the first slab and then rotate the log 90 degrees to cut the next two. I'll have to rotate the log back to finish.

All in all, I figure that the amount of usable cherry I'll get will still be cheaper than buying it. I have a friend with a place a couple hours north who has offered me a few of his cherry trees so I'll come out ahead AND have the benefit of doing it myself.

 

[JFRees]

Another drying question

Thanks for the stacking / drying tips! I'm thinking of putting a couple of cinder blocks down to keep the stack off of the ground. You suggested I could cover it with canvas, plywood or plastic. I assume that means only the top - I don't really want to cover it like firewood, correct? What about burlap? Is it too porous so the top later would continuously get wet / dry?

The strapping idea... I have a few ratcheting straps. If I use those to hold the stack tight will that help prevent cupping? So I don't cause bowing, I figure I should strap close to the stickers? Does it matter what wood the stickers are? I have a lot of scrap pine and it's cheap but if hardwood is better, I can do that as well.

Thanks for the help!

Jim

 

[dustytools]

Thanks for the stacking / drying tips! I'm thinking of putting a couple of cinder blocks down to keep the stack off of the ground. You suggested I could cover it with canvas, plywood or plastic. I assume that means only the top - I don't really want to cover it like firewood, correct? What about burlap? Is it too porous so the top later would continuously get wet / dry?

The strapping idea... I have a few ratcheting straps. If I use those to hold the stack tight will that help prevent cupping? So I don't cause bowing, I figure I should strap close to the stickers? Does it matter what wood the stickers are? I have a lot of scrap pine and it's cheap but if hardwood is better, I can do that as well.

Thanks for the help!

Jim

For the stickers I tend to use a lot of pine from 2X material that I have left over from projects at work. I usually cut then 3/4 X1". Whatever you use make sure that it is seasoned (you dont want to use green wood that you have recently milled). Just cover the top of your stacks with whatever you choose to use and leave the sides open for airflow. The strapping idea should help to hold your wood from moving some, or weight on the stack should help, just keep in mind that wood has a mind of its own and some things such as checking, cupping and warping will happen to some degree with all woods no matter what you do. Do some searching here for drying,stickering and stacking and you will have a lot of reading to learn from.

 

[Adkpk]

Like dusty said and I forgot, paint the ends with latex paint to prevent checking. This should be done before you slab it though. Cherry will check quite a bit. I always try to buck my logs several inches and more then I plan to use it for to allow for the checking to be cut off before I use it. Leave the pile as open as possible with the top covered to keep it dry. Cinder blocks are perfect to keep them off the ground. If you strap it keep an eye on the straps, you'll be surprised how fast it will shrink needing you to rachet the straps tighter. I would just pop a couple of those cider blocks up on top to give it weight maybe a log on top of them for extra weight. Good luck.

Did some dart playing up there in Pelham Bay in my day. Frick'n Irish , order and 1 beer and two or three freebies would follow. Why I put myself through that I'll never know. :hmm3grin2orange: :hmm3grin2orange:

 

[woodshop]

JFRees, welcome to AS, not much to add to dusty and adrpk, they have it covered (no pun intended). I too have a small woodshop in the basement, and my milling feeds that woodshop. Your saw is a bit on the small size for milling, but understand the financial limitations given your circumstances. If you take it easy, go slow and keep a sharp chain on it you can mill with that setup on a limited basis.

 

[Zodiac45]

I think Dusty or some one mentioned too have the outboard stickers about an inch from the ends. Sometimes where you place these will determine the end checking depth. Good advice too always mill longer (3-6") than you want your boards. Any old latex paint will work but you'll need those extra coats. End checking happens due too the faster (than the rest) drying of the exposed end grain. I've restacked my pile at halftime (3-5 months) and turned the boards opposite side up too what they were. Don't have a clue if it helps (works well in my wine cellar though) All 30 bottles. )

 

[JFRees]

Thanks all for your advice... I managed to get four more slabs cut between thunderstorms today and have the stack started. I probably have enough log left for 2 or three slabs but as you all know, it's pretty heavy work and it will have to wait until next Thursday. There is so much sawdust in the corner of my backyard that I was tempted to get the shop vac out. As if my neighbors didn't already think I was nuts!

Woodshop, the saw probably is a little small for this but it's definitely sufficient. Since it's my first go at milling, I really don't have a sense for how fast it could go if I had a bigger saw. That said, now that the fear of killing myself is gone, it's going more quickly !

If not before, you'll hear from me in a few months with the outcome of the effort. It's been an enjoyable ride so far.

Jim

 

[dustytools]

Post often, we love to talk about milling and even woodworking in here. Pictures are a must so if you have any be sure to post them too.