Alaskan Sam Mill questions - Please help

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flashhole

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I've been following a few threads in this forum but none seem to answer my specific questions so I thought I'd start another one.

I have 30+ acres in upstate NY. On the bottom 10 acres I have a lot of Hemlock and hardwood. It's not convenient or even possible to get my tractor in that area as I have to cross a shallow creek and there are steep hills to traverse. So ... if I want to harvest the trees in that part of the property I have to mill them where they are and muscle the cut lumber out to a location where I can hook them to my tractor.

There are 8 large blow-downs that I want to harvest. Two are over 100 feet long and still have the root ball attached. The largest circumference I measured was 76 inches which calculates to just over 24 inches diameter. There are much bigger trees in that stand but I'm focused on the blow-downs. I have a Husky 394 XP with a 32" bar. I will pick up a couple of ripping chains and have an opportunity to get a good deal on a 36" bar and chain combo for $75.

My questions are:

If I buy an Alaskan Mark III mill, what size should I get 30" or 36"?

Does the mill (30" or 36") adjust down to smaller bar lengths?

Thanks in advance guys. I'm a noobie at this but want to get into it and build some out buildings for livestock here on the ranchita.
 
Sorry, I don't have any advice on the Alaskan mill, as I build my own mills, but all I can add is please TAKE PICTURES :D and post them of course.

Even slabbing the logs into boards they are going to be really heavy to lug out, is there any way you could build a sled and then drag the board out with an ATV or even a grab with a long cable from your tractor? Humping out those slabbed wet boards is going to be a lot of work in itself.

Best of luck, and please take pictures!
 
A 36" bar on a standard alaskan will cut ~30" wide.
A 394 will comfortably pull up to a 42" bar which will still fit on a 36" alaskan although the nose will be sticking out the end a fair bit.

If you can get a good deal on the 36" B&C then go for it , otherwise you might want to consider maxing out on bar length from day one. I have several 30 and a 36" bars but cut everything between 20 and 39" with my 42" bars and the 880/076 saws, smaller than ~20" and I use a 25" bar with lo-pro chain and a 441.
 
This is exactly the kind of input I was hoping for ... very helpful.

My second saw is a Stihl MS460. I wasn't sure if the mill would allow use of shorter bars but sounds like it is able to accommodate a variety of lengths, just have to optimize to the size of log being cut.

Yes, when I do this I will take plenty of pictures. Years ago I rigged up an overhead pulley system using a long length of "zero stretch" rope. I was hauling large firewood rounds up out of a gully. Much to my teenage sons surprise it worked really well and I still have the rope. I may try that again or something like it.
 
. . . . Years ago I rigged up an overhead pulley system using a long length of "zero stretch" rope. I was hauling large firewood rounds up out of a gully. Much to my teenage sons surprise it worked really well and I still have the rope. I may try that again or something like it.

If you are referring to using a winch to move the mill along the log then zero stretch rope is not really what you should use. The rope should have some give in it so the force is applied to the saw is gradual otherwise you will end up with a rougher finish.
 
I run a 288xp with a 30'' bar usually, and a 36 inch granberg mill attachment. I mill log diameters from 24'' to 30'' diameter. However I have purchased a longer bar for 30''diameter logs to allow my saw to cut the center of the log with out pinching the nose sprocket with the mill mounts at the front.. I would recommend A 32'' to 34 '' bar with a 36'' inch mill with your power head size. Bob Has a solid point, if you have logs that are 36'' diameter use a 42'' inch bar with a 36 inch mill. Your saw has the power to max out the 36'' mill. Keep the chain sharp.
 

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