another new guy with ???'s

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Pooh

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being a new guy and doing some looking at saws, gives me more and more questions. heres my deal.... im looking at an 034 super. i did a search on pervious forums to find some answers. what i found was a guy talking about electronig ignition. do all saws have it? how can i tell if the saw im looking at has it? and anything you can tell me about this saw would be great.

BTW im planning on buying this saw, a guy i work with wants it out of his garage, but its not his. Its his friends but hes had it for 3 years.

thanks in advance
Pooh
 
I bet his friend will be pissed when he learns that guy sold it. The 34 is a good saw. tell the guy you want to check it out for a couple days. Pull the muffler and see how tings look it there. And go to auto zone and get a $25.00 compression checker. WDO
 
:computer: My very first STIHL was a 034. Man I loved that saw. Then it was a 021 to replace my Polan woodshark climbing saws and I haven't strayed yet.
 
ive already got the gas mixed up and ready to go. the guy that has it, has wood ready for cutting in his back yard if i want, He already offered it to me to use for a couple days to see if that was in the ballpark of what im looking for, so getting it isnt a problem.

another friend of mine is a small engine mechanic, hes got a tester i can borrow. what should a saw like this have for compression??

asking price is what im waiting on. the owner of the saw borrowed it to the guy thats has it because he lost his house and other things due to fire last fall, and needed a saw unill he got things rolling again. whats a saw like this going for?
 
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so i got it from him to check out. looked at the piston throught the exahaust port and the piston looks good. no compresson test yet. he said it hadnt been started in about a year, 6th pull fired right up on old gas. took it out in the woods and i love it. Runs great, LOTS of power compared to my husky 40. just would have been nice to see what it really had with a sharper chain


it has a 16 inch bar on it now but the chain only has 1 maybe 2 grinds left in it, and it needs to be sharpened BAD. i usually hand file 3-4 times or more dependin on how it cuts cause im not the best at hand filing yet, then take it to someone for "grinding." i think i will put a bigger bar 18-20 inch on it cause the other chain is about shot, and my husky already has a 16. will i be dissapointed with a bigger bar? anything else i should give a look at?
 
18 is about right in hardwood. Sounds like a good saw. Worth a couple hundred dollars. Use Stihl Ultra mix oil at 45-50:1 and it will stink SOOOOO much less than standard mix oil, AND it wil not only not produce piston-scratching carbon deposits, but it will also gradually soften and remove old deposits as it is used. Lakeside53 reports finding old saws run on it being totally clean inside!
 
I do believe the 034Super was 61.5cc. The 034's were 56cc. Also, I'm not sure but I think some left the factory with .325 b&c and some had 3/8 b&c. An 18 would seem like the most logical choice. But, I think the super would be fine with a 20 as well. That is if you keep your chains sharp(sounds like you do) and your not cutting Hedge all day. I think Bailey's had some great pricing on 18-20 B&C combos. BTW, Get some good mix.
 
I have an 036 that I just got several weeks ago, and I love it. It is basically the exact same as an 034 Super, so you're pretty close in performance. I run an 18" .325 bar and chain, and it works well. If the 16" B/C you are already running will fit the 034, then I'd keep it the same so that I could use the same parts on both saws. If you need a longer bar on occation, it's easy enough to keep a longer bar and chain and a rim to match. For firewood, 16" should be more than enough, and on an 034 it should be tough to bog it down.

Just 2 bits from another new guy,
Mark
 
thanks

i think im gonna start with the 18 in bar, i dont cut too many hard woods, mostly poplar yes i know that poplat is considerd a hardwood, but its really not a hard wood. am going to try to get into some ash and oak. so i dont see a reason to go to a 20, but may have its use some day.

i put some fresh gas and oil in it. i run ams oil in all my stuff and have had good luck with it. from weed eater, ice auger, lawn mower, and my other saw. should i stray away from the ams oil and go to the stihl ulta? ive been running the ams oil at 45-50:1, and what i read there is no reason i cant go even leaner that that, but i dont trust it.
 
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If you're running a .325 chain now you might want to switch the rim and run 3/8. WDO
 
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They are excellent saws, one of those saws where everything came together and they really got it right.. weight, power, balance, etc.

Provided he doesn't want too much for it, you really can't go wrong.
 
i think im gonna start with the 18 in bar, i dont cut too many hard woods, mostly poplar yes i know that poplat is considerd a hardwood, but its really not a hard wood. am going to try to get into some ash and oak. so i dont see a reason to go to a 20, but may have its use some day.

i put some fresh gas and oil in it. i run ams oil in all my stuff and have had good luck with it. from weed eater, ice auger, lawn mower, and my other saw. should i stray away from the ams oil and go to the stihl ulta? ive been running the ams oil at 45-50:1, and what i read there is no reason i cant go even leaner that that, but i dont trust it.

Ams Oil or Stihl Ultra, That's a good ? for Gary also known as Gasoline71 but I digress. I don't know about Ams Oil but I run my 361, FS80 trimmer , and BG86 blower all on Stihl Ultra and it seems to really work well. If it was me I'd just run Ultra in everything you have and be done with it. JMO. :givebeer::givebeer:
 
... just run Ultra in everything you have and be done with it...

No good argument against that can be made...:) Run Ultra 50:1, Amsoil Sabre is not bad oil but Ultra or Husky XP is straight up specifically for saws. As Teacherman brought up, the smell of Ultra with some nice hardwoods can actually smell pretty good. I suppose you wouldn't be hurting anything if you burned up the last of the Sabre before you get some Ultra if you want to be cost effective, just make sure the carb is tuned properly.
 
WDO.. i already looked into puting the 3/8 on it. its looking like its gonna cost me around 100 to switch it all including B/C. cool thing is i can salvage the chain and use it on my "little" saw and possibly the bar too. i definatlty want to get into a 18 or 20" bar but is 20 too big??
 
WDO.. i already looked into puting the 3/8 on it. its looking like its gonna cost me around 100 to switch it all including B/C. cool thing is i can salvage the chain and use it on my "little" saw and possibly the bar too. i definatlty want to get into a 18 or 20" bar but is 20 too big??

:confused: A new Stihl Rollmatic should be like $35 to $40, chain $20 to $25, and new rim sprocket no more than $10. Even less if you order stuff from Bailey's...
 
i just went to the local stihl dealer bar was 40 chain was 20 and sprocket kit was 35. but this bailys is less expensive? does baileys sell om stuff or is it after market? (eg. stihl/rollmatic bar not a carlton or windsor) what do you do, im still in the dark when it comes to these machines, but am picking it all up farly fast.
 
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