jreed
ArboristSite Lurker
Ive been running an MS290 that is equipped with an Anti-kickback chain. What is the danger of putting a regular chain on? Is the chance of kickback increased that much?
Anti-kickback chain ?
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Kneejerk Bombas
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That's hard to quantify in words. It does reduce the tendancy to kickback when the tip makes contact with wood. The drawback is when cutting wood that is bigger than your bar is long, it slows cutting quite a bit. It's also hard to make plunge cuts.
If you are an experienced cutter and feel you need more, give a loop of pro-chain a try and see what you think. Be careful.
If you are an experienced cutter and feel you need more, give a loop of pro-chain a try and see what you think. Be careful.
ShoerFast
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Jreed
welcome to the site!
Yes, the potential goes up.
By hand, roll the chain around the bar and watch how the extended depth gauges extend in front of there trailing cutter, keeping that cutter from getting locking into the wood , as they pass the top half of the bars sprocket nose. (the danger zone)
That protection is gone with a "non" reduced chain, but you gain some cutting speed.
Understanding what makes a saw kick-back is perhaps the best way for you to decide what chain you want to run.
welcome to the site!
Yes, the potential goes up.
By hand, roll the chain around the bar and watch how the extended depth gauges extend in front of there trailing cutter, keeping that cutter from getting locking into the wood , as they pass the top half of the bars sprocket nose. (the danger zone)
That protection is gone with a "non" reduced chain, but you gain some cutting speed.
Understanding what makes a saw kick-back is perhaps the best way for you to decide what chain you want to run.
M.D. Vaden
vadenphotography.com
I suppose if someone sticks the "nose" of their bar where it doesn't belong, and keeps their face back behind a potential upward path of the bar, they need anti kickback.
Myself, I keep my head to the side, elbows locked straight.
There are some cuts that cannot be done with anti kickback that I don't know any other way of doing.
In other words, some things can't be done with anything else other than the tip of the bar - to big for a handsaw, and too tight for the flat part of the bar.
There is more than one reason why arborists may remove the nose gaurd and use chain that's not anti kickback.
Some shops will only sell non-pros the safety chain.
Myself, I keep my head to the side, elbows locked straight.
There are some cuts that cannot be done with anti kickback that I don't know any other way of doing.
In other words, some things can't be done with anything else other than the tip of the bar - to big for a handsaw, and too tight for the flat part of the bar.
There is more than one reason why arborists may remove the nose gaurd and use chain that's not anti kickback.
Some shops will only sell non-pros the safety chain.
Gark
ArboristSite Operative
Yes the likelihood of kickback (bar nose into wood) is increased. My MS290 came with reduced kickback chains (RM2) also. They're all used up now and the 'normal' (RM or RS) chains cut better, perhaps the humped safety tie straps interfere with chip flow. Suggest ya read all the articles (chainsaw safety- kickback) and view the video before proceeding with yellow chains. Safety first...
jreed said:
In addition to reducing the kickback from cutting with the tip/nose of the bar, the non-kickback chains will also bounce a bit more on your initial approach to the cut-like when you're bucking a log. This is not a major issue-it just reinforces the need to be firm and certain with your saw. If you had the same model saw, one with the anti-kick chain and one without, you'd notice a little more bounce or hop with the non-kick chain-especially on smaller, lighter weight saws.
fishhuntcutwood
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jreed said:
Ha, you're in danger of cutting wood faster. If you're familiar with kickback safety procedures, the reduced kickback chain isn't necessary.
Welcome to AS.
Jeff
Bermie
Addicted to ArboristSite
I did exactly what you want to do on my MS290 because I was felling trees bigger than guide bar length.
The first thing I noticed (which others have said) was more bounce and more kickback potential when boring. But once I got a feel for the difference it definitely cuts faster and more positively. If you change, do some cutting on some 'scrap' wood first just to get the feel, pay attention to your stance and let 'er rip.
The first thing I noticed (which others have said) was more bounce and more kickback potential when boring. But once I got a feel for the difference it definitely cuts faster and more positively. If you change, do some cutting on some 'scrap' wood first just to get the feel, pay attention to your stance and let 'er rip.
Sparky_NY
ArboristSite Member
fishhuntcutwood said:
This is my third year cutting firewood, about 10-15 face cords a year. I only have to buck the logs, 18-24 inch diameter being average. My saws came with anti-kickback chain and I later switched to woodsman pro round chisel chain. It was like the saw had a supercharger installed. I was amazed at the difference in cutting ability. Personally I did not even notice any added roughness or anything else, just the big difference in cutting speed.
