I have a 23HP grinder which cuts well but takes a while to get the job done. Has anyone modified their small grinder with good results? I have considered fitting the machine with different teeth, changing the flywheel to a cast iron one, making internal mods, etc. Wanted to get some ideas from other tree guys who use these machines as a part of their business.
Any Way to Improve Stump Grinder Performance?
- Thread starter beaverb01
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Totally Stumped
ArboristSite Member
Buy a bigger machine. No substitute for cubic inches in the grinding business.
Scars2prove-it
ArboristSite Operative
Totally Stumped said:
I agree. I used to own a Vermeer 252 when I started out. Later, I bought a used Vermeer 665 that would grind the same stump in 1/10 the time. Now, I sub out my stump work to someone with a 60 hp Carlton.
There is really nothing you can do except have very sharp teeth. Even then, you will still be fighting the stump and won't be doing as good a job as a bigger machine would on larger stumps.
Ekka
Addicted to ArboristSite
BeaverB01
Can you please tell me more about your machine.
What type of engine?
Belt or hydo drive?
Cutter wheel dia?
No. of teeth?
Air filter/carby etc.
Picture please.
I got lots of ideas and whilst bigger may be better there's nothing wrong with a better smaller machine ... it's not only the big chainsaws that get hotted up is it?
Can you please tell me more about your machine.
What type of engine?
Belt or hydo drive?
Cutter wheel dia?
No. of teeth?
Air filter/carby etc.
Picture please.
I got lots of ideas and whilst bigger may be better there's nothing wrong with a better smaller machine ... it's not only the big chainsaws that get hotted up is it?
xander9727
The Silverback
Get ahold of Dave Mattison at New River 330-669-2444. The Sandavik wheel alone will improve your cutting speed by at least 30%. If you want more performance you can then change your pulleys to slow the wheel down 25%-30%. This will give you a proprotional increase in torque at the wheel while giving you longer tool life. The Sandavik cutters are designed to run at a slower speed and have very compact pockets that limit parasitic drag. This is the least expensive and most effective way to improve performance without increasing horsepower. I have been doing a lot of testing with the new wheel and feel it has huge possibilities.
woodchux
Addicted to ArboristSite
N2o
Ekka
Addicted to ArboristSite
Can anyone post a picture of that Sandvik wheel?????
And the teeth that go in it????????
Ta
And the teeth that go in it????????
Ta
Ekka said:
EKKA,
This machine is the same as a Carlton 2400 except it is an older model (1998) and has a kohler 23hp cast iron engine with opposing cylinders, carb., points and condenser (which I would like to upgrade to solid state) I just got this machine, so can't afford to run out and buy a new one. This should do fine with some mods. Besides, I love tinkering with engines anyway and the mods would be much cheaper than a new grinder.
Beaver
l2edneck
Small Job Specialist
I used to run a rayco super jr.I found that when i took a bunch of unneeded guards and just overall useless metal off the machine.(guard belst,bearing covers etc)It perked it up a bit after droppin prolly 35 pounds off the wheel housing.Made it a lil more dangerous ,but then again i dont let ppl hang out in my grindin' area.(unless there holdin plywood to deflect the chips)
xander9727
The Silverback
Ekka,
Here is New Rivers website. I can post a pic of my wheels (I have two grinders with them) if I remember tomorrow. I have my Carlton grinder at my house.
Here's the link http://www.newriverequipment.com/
Hope that helps.
Here is New Rivers website. I can post a pic of my wheels (I have two grinders with them) if I remember tomorrow. I have my Carlton grinder at my house.
Here's the link http://www.newriverequipment.com/
Hope that helps.
Ekka
Addicted to ArboristSite
That Sandvik cutter wheel looks space aged!
Some pics would be good, I wonder if the bolt holes etc line up for a straight swap or what?
BeaverB01 maybe yours is older but it looks like 3600 rpm for you also, probably drops down to 3200rpm working. Get a tach on it and see how it's going. Can you take the guards off and measure the pulley sizes OD and the cutter wheel dia to the tips of the teeth.
Also, any chance of pics?
What sort of air cleaner is on it? I find that switching to Donaldson with centrifugal pre cleaner helped for sure. Here's a pic of one on an RG20 but it only has the hat not a centrifugal
http://www.raycomfg.com/rg25hdsolo.htm
Also have a look at where the Govenor spring is attached, I find moving the spring out to the furthest setting is best, on my Honda engine I actually had to put kinks in it with pliers so it was tighter ... govenor works better then but Honda's govenor is nothing like Kohlers for response.
Some pics would be good, I wonder if the bolt holes etc line up for a straight swap or what?
BeaverB01 maybe yours is older but it looks like 3600 rpm for you also, probably drops down to 3200rpm working. Get a tach on it and see how it's going. Can you take the guards off and measure the pulley sizes OD and the cutter wheel dia to the tips of the teeth.
Also, any chance of pics?
What sort of air cleaner is on it? I find that switching to Donaldson with centrifugal pre cleaner helped for sure. Here's a pic of one on an RG20 but it only has the hat not a centrifugal
http://www.raycomfg.com/rg25hdsolo.htm
Also have a look at where the Govenor spring is attached, I find moving the spring out to the furthest setting is best, on my Honda engine I actually had to put kinks in it with pliers so it was tighter ... govenor works better then but Honda's govenor is nothing like Kohlers for response.
Xander9727 I spoke to a dealer about this wheel and he told me unless I misunderstood him that the wheel has rock teeth on the outer edge .This seems to me like the absolute best wheel setup you could have. The way i understood it was those rock teeth would do the plunge part of the cut and the side teeth did most of the stump grinding. That looks like it would save a ton on changing or sharpening teeth . Is this correct or did I misunderstand him? Thanks
xander9727
The Silverback
On the bigger machines this works fine. I don't run rock teeth on either of my machines and I break one every 10 hours of run time on the average. The rock teeth don't cut as fast and the standard teeth aren't affect much by rocks.........metal is a different story.
xander9727 said:On the bigger machines this works fine. I don't run rock teeth on either of my machines and I break one every 10 hours of run time on the average. The rock teeth don't cut as fast and the standard teeth aren't affect much by rocks.........metal is a different story.
im confused. you are recommending the Sandvik, but at the same time are breaking teeth on the average of every 10 hrs? that doesnt sound so great to me
what is the cost of Sandvik setup on self propelled machine i.e SC352?
how about the upkeep of replacing parts? more or less $$ as opposed to regular grinder tooth setup?
My teeth are dull! Would appreciate some info
Pollock777
ArboristSite Member
Grinder
I think you need to step up to a bigger grinder. If you can afford it keep the one you have and get a nice size tow behind save the small one for stumps in yards with gates.
I think you need to step up to a bigger grinder. If you can afford it keep the one you have and get a nice size tow behind save the small one for stumps in yards with gates.
Curbside
ArboristSite Operative
I run Sandvic Dura Disk on both my Vermeer grinders. Sc60TX and a SC252. This disk is absolutly unbelievable and maintenance is so much easier. Really the only time I break teeth are when I hit steel. Chains, survey markers, tree supporst etc. It holds up very well in rocks and concrete. The carbides are at least 3 times the size of Vermeers Pro teeth and out last them. When one edge dulls you can move the tooth to the other side of the wheel and you are cutting on the other side of the edge. There are 2 styles of teeth. One are longs and the other are shorts. The tips are identical but the shorts go on the outer edge of the wheel and the longs go on the side of the wheel. There is a pocket of sorts but it is there to protect the nut that holds the tooth on and keep the tooth from moving. The pocket is very streamlined. The teeth cut the wood into smaller chips and you can take passes of 7-8 inches depending on the size of your disk.
The cost of the teeth seem to be similar to Vermeer Pros. The disk I thought was reasonably priced considering it comes with a full set of teeth and pockets.
The best part is the ease of changing teeth. I use a 1 1/4 inch hole saw to clean the mud around the nut and then use a battery impact to remove the nut. Takes only seconds.
The cost of the teeth seem to be similar to Vermeer Pros. The disk I thought was reasonably priced considering it comes with a full set of teeth and pockets.
The best part is the ease of changing teeth. I use a 1 1/4 inch hole saw to clean the mud around the nut and then use a battery impact to remove the nut. Takes only seconds.
Curbside
ArboristSite Operative
John464 said:
View attachment 41135
If someone priced you 3000.00 for a disk for your 352 then you better give Dave Mattison a call at New River because I did not even pay close to that for my SC60TX I would guess for a 352 complete with teeth and pockets it would be somewhere around 1100.00
I tried posting some information on the disk. Hopefully it worked.
