Anyone Familiar with Kohler 12 hp K series

[atlarge54]

OK, serve me a small slice of crow. I did a search and there were several discussions on points and timing. I've had Kohlers for a many years and set lot of points and never set the timing. Never once had a problem, maybe it's just dumb luck. The OP's engine should start just fine at .020" point setting.

A few questions for you professional small engine guys:

What is the relationship of point gap to crankshaft degree? Would .005" approximate 1 degree?

When you do time one how far from the .020" do you typically vary?

Would it be safe to guess that half the K's out there have never been timed?

I guess I might get out my tester and do a static test, maybe I can get it screwed up before blowing snow.

 

[jgoodhart]

If you don't have any spark check the engine for proper gound, if gounded ok replace the condensor and the points. As for the point gap set them at .020 to get the engine started then reset with a timming light. As for rebuilding a k series Kolher I think they are a cheap repair. Did a 16hp last winter and had 400$ in it, bored +.010, new valve guides and valve job. Replace piston, rings, connecting rod, main bearings and gasket kit.

 

[tooold]

atlarge54.......no crow served here. We are all here to learn something now and then. You asked: "What is the relationship of point gap to crankshaft degree?" That is hard to say because every engine has a different ramp angle on the lobe of the crankshaft. The steeper the angle, the less rotation of the crankshaft it takes to move the points
.005". Another issue is loose pivot bushings in the points and how much crank rotation it takes to take up the bushing slop before the points open. If you have a movable points backing plate, you can set your gap and then the timing, but if you don't, your gap may be way off to make up for worn parts.

 

[drumbum]

Kohlers

The earlier engines had an aluminum pushrod for the points; they would wear on the side and make setting to factory specs hard. Replace with the steel pushrod if that's the case. Hope this helps.

 

[tawilson]

Don't forget to check the coil. That's what went on my 10 hp Kohler.

 

[BrokenToys]

After rebuilding about 5 Kohler K301AS's ... (three on Cub Cadets, one on my Ford LGT120, and one just because it was there) i've definately noticed that:
1. coils seem to be problematic. I always had a few around and one I know is good to swap to first test with.
2. points are touchy. mostly i've seen the set screw get stripped out or the contacts rounded out.
3. they always run and run and run once they are fixed. hell, i had one sit in someones yard for 8 years and after a week of pickling in mystery oil and a carb/needle cleaning it runs to this day.
4. parts are pricey.

here's a PDF I use for references/etc. http://www.kohlerengines.com/onlinecatalog/pdf/tp_1346_c_all.pdf

good luck with it. i really like those engines.