Anyone run with low rakers on undersized bars?

[rxe]

our best option is to use a bigger sprocket and set your rakers around 25, IMHO.

+1

I run an 18" bar on my 046, which is crazy short by the standards of this place. Best upgrade was an 8 pin sprocket - much faster, it would probably take a 9 pin.

 

[Nailsbeats]

Try and test, depending on your setup, I think that's the best way to find out. It's pretty obvious when it get's dangerous and hard on the saw. Just go a little at a time.

 

[Crofter]

Factory new chains these days are blunt, plain and simple, they never used to be, clueless academic nanny state safety officials have wormed their way in on that one, oregon chain is bad for that, stihl chain a little better, touch up the drags on a new chain for a decent bite, overdo it though and forget about smooth comfortable operation, a fine line between piss-poor, OK and very good, also the overdone drags'll wear out the drive sprocket, clutch and springs before long, as well as halving chain life

Pgg, I actually feel that the reverse is true here in regard to new factory grind sharpness. 4 or 5 years ago I would say it was true of most brands except Stihl. Maybe you are not getting new chain yet from the pipeline to NZ, Lol!

Low rakers will keep a dull chain cutting a bit longer but I would bet a nickle that if the chain is sharp they really only seem to be cutting faster. I find that low rakers seem to be hard on man and machine; dropping the rakers way down is just an excuse for being "file lazy" Lol! :greenchainsaw:

 

[Swamp Yankee]

Tend to keep my rakers a bit lower than most but that's the way I was taught years ago. Don't really know the height, go by feel.

To be truthful I really think the raker height depends on the operator experience level, and how well he knows his saw. It also makes a huge difference if you're felling, limbing or bucking. I wouldn't lower the rakers on a new saw. After you've run the saw enough and know how to feel and feed it in a cut start, with an extra pass when filing and work your way to your own comfort zone.

Yes there's the issue of kick back, so care must be taken while operating. It's an experience thing and definitely not something for an inexperienced operator to be fooling with.

There's also the issue of engine power curve. Go too low on the rakers and a lot of the new saws lose rpms too fast and drop out of their power bandwidth. Any gain in chip removal size is lost in chain speed in the cut. The torque-meisters of old were far more forgiving.

So I guess my advice, and remember what you paid for it, is try it but don't get carried away to start. You can always remove a little more material on a chain, putting it back is a pain.

Take Care

 

[pgg]

Pgg, I actually feel that the reverse is true here in regard to new factory grind sharpness. 4 or 5 years ago I would say it was true of most brands except Stihl. Maybe you are not getting new chain yet from the pipeline to NZ, Lol :

we just get the leftovers, hope those sharp ones turn up soon

 

[056kid]

keeping a razor sharp chain is Paramount. I like to lick each tooth once or twice baised upon the looks on every fill up or so. I can tell a difference in sharpness after 2 big white oaks.

 

[rmihalek]

I recall reading somewhere that low rakers will hammer the crank bearings pretty hard, maybe leading to premature air leaks in the crankcase, leaning things out to the point of seizure. Probably your best bet is running square ground chisel chain with 0.025" rakers and gearing up to an 8 or 9 tooth sprocket.