Anyone use a surface grinder to get a finer point on their chain?

[CanadianCarGuy]

Yes you are exactly right, the corners do lift easier. I think a larger beak has slightly more strength as more than just the chrome is supporting it, but that is just a guess. Keep in mind I cut softer wood most of the time, so this still lasts awhile. I am gonna play around a little with the shaper angles to see if I can get a shallower angle on the beak. The stone might last a little longer too cause you are not shaping such a large surface with top shaper. The chain doesn't last as long, but I touch it up with a plain ol flat file through out the day, my flat filed chain cuts pretty good too!

 

[stihl038x2]

I use a surface grinder, but the chains are in a whole bunch of little pieces

BTW.... hello Daniel.

Steve

 

[CanadianCarGuy]

I have changed the angle of the top shaper with the new stone. I wonder if anyone else get this much life out of their stone? Also reduced the angle of the beak by at least half. If you can believe it I sucked up a bunch of water in my Jeep and locked it up tight 20 feet off the highway going to try out a couple saws today.

Hey Steve how's things with you? I still got a couple boxes of saws sitting here in the shop that I packed up for you. I really should get on sending em out to you Last time the lady in post office said they smelled like gas wouldn't send em and I never tried again.... Are you still in the same address Norwood?

 

[Metals406]

Yikes, hope your Jeep ain't too effed.

 

[CanadianCarGuy]

Got the plugs out and it is turning over, a TON of water come out. I see the cylinder closest to the firewall is pretty oily. My intake bracket for my cold air intake broke and the filter was sitting down low by the bumper, it had no chance, the filter was completely submerged. Got new plugs coming with a courier for 1:00 PM. I guess I will find out soon enough if I knocked a rod or rod bearing out of it, at least it was only 1200 rpm when it hydrolocked.

 

[stihl038x2]

I have changed the angle of the top shaper with the new stone. I wonder if anyone else get this much life out of their stone? Also reduced the angle of the beak by at least half. If you can believe it I sucked up a bunch of water in my Jeep and locked it up tight 20 feet off the highway going to try out a couple saws today.

Hey Steve how's things with you? I still got a couple boxes of saws sitting here in the shop that I packed up for you. I really should get on sending em out to you Last time the lady in post office said they smelled like gas wouldn't send em and I never tried again.... Are you still in the same address Norwood?

All's good here Daniel. Yep same Addy. Let me know if I can help out with your projects.

Steve

 

[CanadianCarGuy]

Got the new plugs and they were a good 1/4" longer, that worried me. Checked it out online, they are the right ones. Hand threaded one in and bared the engine over, no contact. Used the starter, all good. Gonna try it tomorrow with daylight.

Steve, had you ever tried using a magnetic table with a made up loop on the surface grinder? What surface grinder you got? You turning flywheels down your lathe?

 

[stihl038x2]

Daniel, I disassemble the cutters & use a jig on the S.G. My grinder is a Harig 612 w/Mitutoyo DRO

Steve

 

[CanadianCarGuy]

That is way too cool! Any pics of what the tooth looks like after surfacing?? I knew someone somewhere had to be doing this! Do you know approx. how much you remove from each tooth? Notice much strength loss in the teeth, do they fall off premature? I changed my angles around with the new stone, now I have a much shallower angle with the beak now, we will see if that holds up a little better in harder wood. I kinda like the sharpness of the sharper angle, but man if you hit something, you gotta a lot of grinding to do.

I am keeping my eye out for a small Sanford bench mount surface grinder, I might even make up my own from a lawnmower blade grinder and just have a table that moves around the stationary blade. Not sure if that will work, but its free.

 

[stihl038x2]

NO PICS !!!!!!!!!! Don't want the secrets falling into the wrong hands HAHAHAHAHAHAHAHAHA.............

Really though, I don't have any but if I did I would certainly share. I reduce the inside of each cutter strap by .010" so that thins the kerf by .020". I have taken .015"/strap. I use real thin wheel with a full rad. to tunnel the underside of the cutters.
PM me about the box of "goodies" you have.

Steve

 

[w8ye]

The cats meow on a race chain would be to narrow the chain chassis down to .050" on a surface grinder. That is because the top part of the drive links that is under the tie straps is .063 on all Stihl 3/8" chain and on Oregon .050" & .058", they are all .058" thick. Naturally this would require a complete disassembly/reassembly of the chain and to for this to work, you would need to run a .050" bar.

You would have to come up with a cutter to turn the shoulders down on all the preset rivet shanks to only be .050" long.

Then if you cut the tips of the cutters off to reach only half way across the chain, you could save a few more ozs.

Less rotating weight and less chain going through the wood = more performance?