Auto-Retract, Finally (Part I)

[beerman6]

So simple and awesome!

Nice job.

 

[Sandhill Crane]

The selected stop is the beauty of it, that and you didn't have to park what is perfectly functional machine and buy something new. The other thing you mentioned is that the old girl is single stage. I don't know why more arn't built this way because when a two stage kicks down they seem terribly slow, and probably way over powered for 99 out of 100 splits. Your old girl looks to outshine most of those young box store girls with big numbers. Thanks for posting Mac 88.

 

[autoimage]

isnt there a mission to mars? im sure they need ur services

 

[Mac88]

I don't know of any splitter out there that can be set to stop retracting at any selected point. I wanted one from the first day I ran mine (troybilt 27 ton).

Harry K

That was a big part of why I did it. We split different lengths and it can be set anywhere between 0 and 24".

Wife or splitter?

Both.

there is also the quick and dirty of setting a half round piece of something over the ram shaft. that way when the ram is retracting it hits the stop between the splitter head and cylinder body. this causes the hydraulics to spike in pressure just like when you are bottoming out the ram normally on the return stroke and the control valve pops into neutral. i believe i have read somewhere here they make cylinder shaft doughnuts you can slip on that are made for this. they wont mare up the shaft or mess up the cylinder seal, just take them off when you are done to retract the cylinder all the way so it is not exposed the elements all the time.

i have been thinking of this also since i have the same splitter

That won't work on mine. Bottom the cylinder and the engine stalls. It's just a simple 2-way valve.

The selected stop is the beauty of it, that and you didn't have to park what is perfectly functional machine and buy something new. The other thing you mentioned is that the old girl is single stage. I don't know why more arn't built this way because when a two stage kicks down they seem terribly slow, and probably way over powered for 99 out of 100 splits. Your old girl looks to outshine most of those young box store girls with big numbers. Thanks for posting Mac 88.

There's very few pieces that we can't split, usually very gnarly crotches with 4 or 5 branches. Sometimes we have to bump them a couple times, but not very often. The best part is that we only run the engine slightly above half throttle, which probably explains it's longevity.

 

[turnkey4099]

there is also the quick and dirty of setting a half round piece of something over the ram shaft. that way when the ram is retracting it hits the stop between the splitter head and cylinder body. this causes the hydraulics to spike in pressure just like when you are bottoming out the ram normally on the return stroke and the control valve pops into neutral. i believe i have read somewhere here they make cylinder shaft doughnuts you can slip on that are made for this. they wont mare up the shaft or mess up the cylinder seal, just take them off when you are done to retract the cylinder all the way so it is not exposed the elements all the time.

i have been thinking of this also since i have the same splitter

I tried the stroke limiters that clip on over the shaft. Not good. It took so much pressure to make it release it was breaking the bolt holding the rod to the wedge. dunno why but it was obviously using a lot more pressure than if it retracted all the way. Still can't figure out even how the extra pressure was getting to that bolt. I gave it up when it broke a grade 8 bolt.

Harry K

 

[Mac88]

I tried the stroke limiters that clip on over the shaft. Not good. It took so much pressure to make it release it was breaking the bolt holding the rod to the wedge. dunno why but it was obviously using a lot more pressure than if it retracted all the way. Still can't figure out even how the extra pressure was getting to that bolt. I gave it up when it broke a grade 8 bolt.

Harry K

Like I mentioned, those limiters won't work on my splitter. There's no pressure relief or auto kick-out. If I extend or retract it the full length, it just stalls the engine. Maybe if I were running it at full throttle something might break or the belt would slip. I have no idea what pressure mine runs at. It cycles fairly fast and splits just about everything I feed it so it's not an issue. Williams made/makes a lot of different power units in various sizes and specs, but mine has no external markings so, short of taking it apart I would have no way of knowing the specs.

My wedge is welded to the beam. The slider that the ram is bolted to is fairly long. There's no movement between the ram and cylinder rod, so nothing to break at that point.

 

[jthornton]

I tried the stroke limiters that clip on over the shaft. Not good. It took so much pressure to make it release it was breaking the bolt holding the rod to the wedge. dunno why but it was obviously using a lot more pressure than if it retracted all the way. Still can't figure out even how the extra pressure was getting to that bolt. I gave it up when it broke a grade 8 bolt.

Harry K

There is usually a detent pressure setting and if set to tight will make the disengage at a high pressure.

John

 

[turnkey4099]

There is usually a detent pressure setting and if set to tight will make the disengage at a high pressure.

John

Thanks, hadn't thought of that. I'll take a look.

Harry K

 

[Jredsjeep]

o yea Mac i figured the stops on the cylinder would not work for you, especially with a full manual valve. what you have worked out is slick! this was meant for use with those chainstore splitters.

 

[Preston]

Some might call that old boy engineering, but I say it's well thought out very professional. That is impressive. The parts and pieces are very well done. Impressed I am!

 

[Mac88]

Thanks guys. I appreciate all the comments.