Bar and Chain smoking have to be oil, right?

[johnha]

Last Saturday helped bud take down about a dozen trees on his new property. Pulled out the 372xp with 24" bar for bucking a big one. After a few cuts bar and chain are smoking like mad and untouchable. Its throwing oil so I put it aside and spend the day with the 353. Have to admit I've been using the 353 almost exclusively for a couple of years as its way more manageable weight wise.

Anyway, couldn't recall how old the bar was and decided to pick up new. Put in an order to Baileys but decided I didn't want to wait so picked up a 20" genuine Husqy HT 380-72 bar at the local dealer this week. Then decided no point in using one of my old chains, threw a new semi chisel on that to boot. Been running WPL 20 30SC72 on it for some time and that is what I used. Bar is correct and a match .050" and 3/8".

Cleaned saw up nice and applied new bar and chain. Went back to buds today to finish bucking the trees and about ten cuts into a red oak today it started behaving badly again. Stopped using it right away until I could diagnose it further and ran the 353 again for the rest of the day.

Its throwing oil, so I removed the bar and chain and verify its pumping properly, yes. I use Tractor Supply bar oil and pretty much have for the 7 or 8 years I've run this saw without issue. I've read through a number of threads on this topic, which all seem to point to lubrication if the bar was in good order and matched the chain. Since replacing the bar and chain did not change the behavior, I can only think oiling, but that seems okay.

Another interesting data point is that the chain is not dull, and the removed 24" chain isn't really dull either. Anyone have any ideas for me?

 

[Adirondackstihl]

Adjust your oiler?

 

[Warped5]

I recently had the same issue with my 371XP w/24" B&C. I opened it up another 1/4 turn and the smoking stopped.

 

[dingeryote]

Turn the oiler up all the way, and leave it there if you havn't already.

That new bar. It's an Oregon power match and likely one of the newer ones, open up the oil passages with a 2 sizes larger bit, and then run the groove cleaner through to get rid of the burr. It should slobber pretty well after that, if not, you have other issues.

Good luck!

Stay safe!
Dingeryote

 

[Pintony]

First of all. ALL mentioned above are good advise.

I suggest.
Maybe??? Tractor supply is using some cheeper oil to save some coin.
My Pop always said try the simple stuff FIRST.
Try some Stihl bar oil one time. Or just try some different bar oil. If the type oil is not the problem then you havent lost anything you will use it up anyhow...
Also there are bar oils for normal cutting an some for COLD cutting...
But you know that already...

 

[CTYank]

First of all. ALL mentioned above are good advise.

I suggest.
Maybe??? Tractor supply is using some cheeper oil to save some coin.
My Pop always said try the simple stuff FIRST.
Try some Stihl bar oil one time. Or just try some different bar oil. If the type oil is not the problem then you havent lost anything you will use it up anyhow...
Also there are bar oils for normal cutting an some for COLD cutting...
But you know that already...

For many models, Husqy states that the bar oil can be cut with up to 50% diesel or kerosene, in extremely cold conditions. Thinning it out may help the pump to maintain proper flow. Of course the thinners aren't as good at lubing, so you may want to take it a bit easier on the saw.

I've seen it happen with some saws that once the temps get down near freezing, the bar oil flow rate takes a dive. Thinning it out helps.

 

[bplust]

Pushing too hard?

 

[JRobinson]

Is it throwing oil off the chain or just throwing oil everywhere? If you run it out of the cut for a minute or so does the chain get oily? If it is then your oil ain't makin' it. If it isn't, take the chain off and bolt the bar up without the chain and make sure the oil is actually making it into the bar groove. They shouldn't really throw oil everywhere, sounds like the bar hole doesn't match the saw port. Is the bar a D009 mount? My guess is they sold you a K095 mount that fits a 455, the bar studs are bigger on the 372 and you wont be able to get the bar clamped up tight against the saw so it's leaking all the oil out instead of putting into the groove.

Jim

 

[Warped5]

Back to the 'cold' vs. 'warm' oil formulas ...

Just $.02 more here ...

In our area, the oil sold by Tractor Supply, Sears (Spectrum) and Husqvarna is all the same stuff and is quite good I have found in all temps.

The stuff sold by Menard's and Wally World is quite a bit thinner.

As I see it, the common denominator is this: The oil tank will warm up as the saw is used and that temp will be maintained while the saw is operating. For this reason, I see no point in using the thinner products (or adding kerosene) until it gets really cold (0 F) and I must cut.

 

[johnha]

As far as the bar, I've never bought a Husqy branded bar before but was itching to run saws this weekend for some reason. :msp_smile: Its from a Husqy pro dealer, not a box store, and the fitment on the package specifically states 372xp (among others), the Rancher isn't listed.

It appears the bar is contacting the saw okay, but is this something I would be able to tell with the naked eye?

Oil? I've been running the TSC brand for years and it has given me no trouble, and the specific bottle is nearly gone. Wasn't very cold yesterday, we haven't had much of a winter at all for that matter. I cut up a lot of wood yesterday after putting down the 372, and the 353 and my buddy's Jonesred 2145 using the same oil with no trouble

Thank you all for taking the time to post. I'll try the things mentioned and post my results, only thing is I don' think I'll get to it today, gotta go see the out-laws. :msp_sad:

 

[carldebjez]

new bar? blocked oil hole (paint)?

 

[GASoline71]

Again... turn the oiler all the way up. Don't lean on it, and let the saw do the work.

If the bar tip is buried in wood while making cuts... this can add excess heat as well. I've seen bar tips on saws damn near hot enough to fry an egg while buckin' big stuff with the bar buried.

Gary

 

[JRobinson]

As far as the bar, I've never bought a Husqy branded bar before but was itching to run saws this weekend for some reason. :msp_smile: Its from a Husqy pro dealer, not a box store, and the fitment on the package specifically states 372xp (among others), the Rancher isn't listed.

I see now that the HT 380-72 is indeed the large mount and should be the correct bar for the saw. Sorry, I'm not used to the Husky nomenclature as I've always used Oregon bars which are identical except for the paintjob. There is a brass tube coming from the oiler on those saws with some rubber seals on each end, if one of those seals has deteriorated it may be letting the oil out behind the clutch somewhere instead of forcing it into the bar hole, but in several years of working on them I can't remember a case where this was the problem. Hope you get it sorted.

BTW I hear ya on the 353, those are a really nice little saw with real aluminum crankcase halves instead of the stupid air-leaking plastic contraption they came up with for the 350s. Don't sell it because anything new from Husky won't have that kind of quality (the 450 is a joke). I have an old 351 (very similar to the 353) that I use for 99% of my wood cutting nowdays, much easier to handle than a big saw if you aren't working in some pretty huge wood. Runs great, will sit there and idle for an hour if need be. Easy on the back pain...

Jim

 

[spankrz]

causes for this:

bar oil. either it is not getting there, not enough is getting there, or it is extremely low quality.

chain. a dull chain is often times the culprit. could be cutters or rakers. you stated it was a new chain, so this is most likely not your problem.

 

[Kenskip1]

This is a long shot but what if= the chain was to loose and as the drivers came off the clutch, above the oiling hole (in the bar) they went back onto the bar without oil.Oil would be draining beneath the clutch thereby thinking the oilier was working..In a nut shell the chain was not collecting oil because it was to loose.Either this or the hole in the bar was clogged.Have I lost anyone? Ken

 

[OCTJ]

Check for 1) partially clogged oil filter in the oil tank 2) bad oil pickup line.
If not one of these, could be a bad oil pump.

 

[Winchester356]

Last Saturday helped bud take down about a dozen trees on his new property. Pulled out the 372xp with 24" bar for bucking a big one. After a few cuts bar and chain are smoking like mad and untouchable. Its throwing oil so I put it aside and spend the day with the 353. Have to admit I've been using the 353 almost exclusively for a couple of years as its way more manageable weight wise.

Anyway, couldn't recall how old the bar was and decided to pick up new. Put in an order to Baileys but decided I didn't want to wait so picked up a 20" genuine Husqy HT 380-72 bar at the local dealer this week. Then decided no point in using one of my old chains, threw a new semi chisel on that to boot. Been running WPL 20 30SC72 on it for some time and that is what I used. Bar is correct and a match .050" and 3/8".

Cleaned saw up nice and applied new bar and chain. Went back to buds today to finish bucking the trees and about ten cuts into a red oak today it started behaving badly again. Stopped using it right away until I could diagnose it further and ran the 353 again for the rest of the day.

Its throwing oil, so I removed the bar and chain and verify its pumping properly, yes. I use Tractor Supply bar oil and pretty much have for the 7 or 8 years I've run this saw without issue. I've read through a number of threads on this topic, which all seem to point to lubrication if the bar was in good order and matched the chain. Since replacing the bar and chain did not change the behavior, I can only think oiling, but that seems okay.

Another interesting data point is that the chain is not dull, and the removed 24" chain isn't really dull either. Anyone have any ideas for me?

I had that happen last summer with hardware store brand bar oil.

 

[ShermanC]

My Echo CS-5000 is doing the same thing as your saw

Last Saturday helped bud take down about a dozen trees on his new property. Pulled out the 372xp with 24" bar for bucking a big one. After a few cuts bar and chain are smoking like mad and untouchable. Its throwing oil so I put it aside and spend the day with the 353. Have to admit I've been using the 353 almost exclusively for a couple of years as its way more manageable weight wise.

Anyway, couldn't recall how old the bar was and decided to pick up new. Put in an order to Baileys but decided I didn't want to wait so picked up a 20" genuine Husqy HT 380-72 bar at the local dealer this week. Then decided no point in using one of my old chains, threw a new semi chisel on that to boot. Been running WPL 20 30SC72 on it for some time and that is what I used. Bar is correct and a match .050" and 3/8".

Cleaned saw up nice and applied new bar and chain. Went back to buds today to finish bucking the trees and about ten cuts into a red oak today it started behaving badly again. Stopped using it right away until I could diagnose it further and ran the 353 again for the rest of the day.

Its throwing oil, so I removed the bar and chain and verify its pumping properly, yes. I use Tractor Supply bar oil and pretty much have for the 7 or 8 years I've run this saw without issue. I've read through a number of threads on this topic, which all seem to point to lubrication if the bar was in good order and matched the chain. Since replacing the bar and chain did not change the behavior, I can only think oiling, but that seems okay.

Another interesting data point is that the chain is not dull, and the removed 24" chain isn't really dull either. Anyone have any ideas for me?

I have taken the same direction as you did and I believe the brake band has worn out, running too close to the clutch drum. I'm going to buy a new brake band housing and hope that solves the problem for one of my favorite saws. Please post what you find solves your issue. Sherm

 

[johnha]

update or more problems

Thank you all for your replies, and, well... the plot thickens.

I intended to look at it before I did, but had a call on Thursday and ended up cutting, loading, and piling about 3 cords of ash in the driveway for splitting by Saturday afternoon, and the 353 and 346xp did fine work. THEN I get a lady stop wants to know if I'll take the maple rounds off her lawn as the tree service hasn't come back. What a silly quesion?!?! I'm better than half way towards next winter's wood.

So yesterday I take off the bar and inspect. Holes in bar are both fine. I opened up the oiler a bit and the screw seems loose. Suddenly I can't move the clutch drum by hand. If I engage the brake its different, its locked and won't budge. Pulling starter and engine seems to be turning fine.

If the oiler is bad it explains the lack of oil of course, but would it prevent the clutch from turning? Thanks.

 

[johnha]

so if the oil pump drive wheel (dunno why its called a wheel, looks like a crossbar to me) is what is stuck, does that mean bad pump?