Bar and Chain smoking have to be oil, right?

[JRobinson]

Well if you're saying the adjustment screw felt loose the pump may have come apart. The adjuster screw is what holds the plunger in the pump, it adjusts by limiting how far the plunger can move back & forth. If the crossbar is stuck it probably froze up and melted the gear (it has a worm gear molded onto it that drives the pump). I've had those pumps apart and put them back together again, but I think they're only sold as a unit. You may need a new pump and the gear that drives it (the crossbar thing), while you're at it check the needle bearing with the clutch drum in place - it's OK if it slides back & forth but it shouldn't rock much on the shaft at all. If it does, grab a new bearing for it too.

Those pumps are a bear to change out without removing the brake band because of the brass tube that snakes around behind it. It can be done, you just have to figure out the right way to twist it around (holding your mouth just right helps too . Removing the brake band is a pain as well because of the spring (reassembly), it may still be the easiest way to go though. I can't remember the exact damages on a parts list like that, but worst case scenario maybe $75 bucks or so?

good luck,
Jim

EDIT: One word of caution, don't run the saw with the screws that hold the oiler removed, they go straight into the crankcase and without them in their holes you have a massive air leak. It doesn't hurt to put a little sealant on them when you put it back together, I always doped them up with a little HondaBond just to make sure they didn't leak.

 

[gcdible1]

I had a similar problem with a new oregon pro lite bar. Tried it on 2 saws, both put out oil just wasnt keeping things lubed up well enough to keep it cool. Cut great til the new bar and chain got hot and started dulling up. Got to looking and duh! The sprocket nose was dry! It came UNGREASED from the factory? I greased it up and cleaned out the bar groove and so far so good!

 

[JRobinson]

I had a similar problem with a new oregon pro lite bar. Tried it on 2 saws, both put out oil just wasnt keeping things lubed up well enough to keep it cool. Cut great til the new bar and chain got hot and started dulling up. Got to looking and duh! The sprocket nose was dry! It came UNGREASED from the factory? I greased it up and cleaned out the bar groove and so far so good!

I had one particular customer that got madder than hell at me if I ever greased his bar tip. He said they last longer if you don't grease them, lol. He wasn't just a wannabe either, he ran saws for a living most of his life. They do get some oil from the chain I guess, but to me that hole is there for a reason. Come to think of it, I haven't greased my tip in weeks :msp_mellow: .

 

[lefturnfreek]

Suddenly I can't move the clutch drum by hand.

Sounds like the brake is dragging, that clutch should turn if you blew on it hard enough.

 

[johnha]

JIM: "Well if you're saying the adjustment screw felt loose the pump may have come apart. The adjuster screw is what holds the plunger in the pump, it adjusts by limiting how far the plunger can move back & forth. If the crossbar is stuck it probably froze up and melted the gear (it has a worm gear molded onto it that drives the pump)."

ME: Yes Jim, it appears to be the oil pump drive wheel/crossbar that is frozen.

JIM: "I've had those pumps apart and put them back together again, but I think they're only sold as a unit. You may need a new pump and the gear that drives it (the crossbar thing), while you're at it check the needle bearing with the clutch drum in place - it's OK if it slides back & forth but it shouldn't rock much on the shaft at all. If it does, grab a new bearing for it too."

ME: Its the original needle bearing so I'll probably replace it. I do take it off, clean and grease it with the Husqvarna provided grease a few times a year. Don't want you to think I mistreat my tools!

JIM: "Those pumps are a bear to change out without removing the brake band because of the brass tube that snakes around behind it. It can be done, you just have to figure out the right way to twist it around (holding your mouth just right helps too ."

ME: Thanks for the laugh, my kids love my tinkering faces. Looks like I may need to grind an old socket to make a 'clutch removal tool'.

JIM: "Removing the brake band is a pain as well because of the spring (reassembly), it may still be the easiest way to go though. I can't remember the exact damages on a parts list like that, but worst case scenario maybe $75 bucks or so?"

ME: Good tip. Can't be much worse than R&R'ing a set of carbs from an old Honda V4 motorsikkle engine, LOL!

JIM: "EDIT: One word of caution, don't run the saw with the screws that hold the oiler removed, they go straight into the crankcase and without them in their holes you have a massive air leak. It doesn't hurt to put a little sealant on them when you put it back together, I always doped them up with a little HondaBond just to make sure they didn't leak."

ME: Thanks, I always have the Permatex handy.

ME: Leftie, the clutch turns fine until it engages the "oil pump drivewheel", aka crossbar. Thanks!

ME: gcdible1, I've tried 2 bars, including one fresh from the package, on the same saw. Thanks for reading and your advice, everything is helpful to a clueless person (me).

Thanks again to ALL, I'll post the results.

John

 

[JRobinson]

ME: Good tip. Can't be much worse than R&R'ing a set of carbs from an old Honda V4 motorsikkle engine, LOL!

Nope, piece of cake compared to that. Been there, done that, I have a V65 Sabre I bought new in '85 .

Let us know how it goes.

Jim

EDIT: left hand thread on that clutch, but you probably knew that... An air impact is the easy way.

 

[johnha]

Nope, piece of cake compared to that. Been there, done that, I have a V65 Sabre I bought new in '85 .

LOL! I was the original owner of my '84 big Sabre which I sold in 2008 <sigh>:

https://picasaweb.google.com/johnha1980/Miscellaneous#5365365739385398594

rode that thing all over the place including Radisson, QC, Lanse aux Meadows, NL and many states. Sold it in 2008 to a friend who rides it still.

John

 

[johnha]

Let us know how it goes.

Jim

Okay, many thanks for all the replies and Jim nailed it. It WAS the pump worm gear. The metal gear in the pump housing moved to one side and jammed itself into the housing:
https://picasaweb.google.com/johnha1980/Miscellaneous#5724001515780639058

And it ate the crossbar threads and managed to seize them:
https://picasaweb.google.com/johnha1980/Miscellaneous#5724001521846316290

I had a delay waiting for the Husqvarna clutch removal tool which ended up being one for an outboard clutch. Then I had a delay with an 18 YO running my car into a sign, etc. etc. So 20 minutes with a Harbor Freight 15/16" half inch deep drive impact socket and my grinder made a nifty little removal tool:
https://picasaweb.google.com/johnha1980/Miscellaneous#5724006011795741906

As usual, AS rocks!

 

[johnha]

<SNIP>
Those pumps are a bear to change out without removing the brake band because of the brass tube that snakes around behind it. It can be done, you just have to figure out the right way to twist it around (holding your mouth just right helps too . Removing the brake band is a pain as well because of the spring (reassembly), it may still be the easiest way to go though. <SNIP>

Jim - After removing the brake cover I gently pryed the fixed end of the brake band (around 11 o'clock on the dial) out and unwound it slightly so it was out of the way. This made the brass tube easy to wiggle free.

Thanks again.