bar oil

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I have always used proper bar oil, but a guy I am working with swears I am just wasteing money as he claims to use used engine oil out of his diesel truck.
I asked hum if he has ever burnt up a bar or chain from this practice. He claimed he hasnt, but I am bit sceptical . what do you guys think?
 
if the oil was dirty enough to be removed from an engine, I wouldn't trust it on my bar, chain or oil pump. Only new oil for my saws. Seen too many oil pumps get clogged up from used oil. Plus, all that suspended grit will wear out the oil pump prematurely.
 
I think several companies recommend 30 wt oil. If there is any contaminates they may shorten the life of the oil pump. Personally the small savings just aren't worth the risk. But I do used recycled oil at 60 cents a quart.
 
Yes, yes...I mean no, no, no...don't use waste oil in your chain saws. My Dad used nothing but in a couple of old McCullochs and Homelite gear drives, with only manual oiling and got by with it. I used it for a long time in more modern direct-drive saws and noticed others got a lot better life out of their stuff than I did. We're talking 4 or 5 bars, and 25 chains over the life of a saw, versus 2 bars and maybe a dozen chains (not counting the ones wrecked trying to cut rocks and barbed wire!)...really!

Not only does useed oil often have grit and metal particles, but also acids; fuels, especially off-road diesels used to have a lot of sulfur in them. Sulfur oxides + Moisture = acids, which will slowly wear parts even when not moving.
 
I think several companies recommend 30 wt oil
30 wt? I have never seen it reccomended. Seems it would be a bit thin as compared to bar oil. The thing I dont like about using motor oil is its seems to thin and its not tacky so it flings all over makeing a mess of the sprocket/chain cover area.
 
30wt oil

I have manuals and some actual oil bottles that say 30 wt oil recommended for the bar and chain.
 
oil types

Just looked at a Stihl manual and they recommend a non-fling biodegradable Stihl product. If non is available use HD SAE 30 >10 Celcius and 20 wt below it.

The Mcculloch manual says SAE non additive >5 celcius and SAE 10 below 5 celcius (around 40 F)

The Craftsman manual tells me to use the 30 weight above 40F and to dilute the 30 wt with 3 ounces of Kerocene below 40F.
I guess they figuire the oil pump will regulate the amount of oil going to the bar and chain.

They advise never to use waste oil.
 
Dealers View of Used Oli...

It is a mixed feeling I/we have about a customer using used oils (Diesel engine, Trans oil etc). Its one thing to get preachy and tell him he is not saving $ like he is sure he is...particularly when you see him more ofter buying chains, sprockets & bars:D
However I still stick out my neck and mention the add'l wear that goes along with the "savings".
If you are looking to $ave...try soaking your chains in a real bar oil before using your saw...NEW IDEA...NOT...Oregon has recommended it since at least the '60's, and now with their little 'pocket' between the rivets to hold the oil from the 'soak', you are throwing $ away not using the tech. being supplied.
 
oil recommendation

my husqvarna operators manual says quote" in countries where no special chain oil is available, EP 90 transmission oil can be used." I take this to mean regular 80-90 gear oil. I have also seen 30W recommended also. It's bar and chain oil for me.
 
Re: Dealers View of Used Oli...

Originally posted by BillW
Oregon has recommended it since at least the '60's, and now with their little 'pocket' between the rivets to hold the oil from the 'soak', you are throwing $ away not using the tech. being supplied.

I haven't heard of this before. Is Oregon finally making something comparable to Stihl oilomatic chain?
 
First off I would like to state that none of my saws have ever had used oil in them and never will and I dont recommend it in any saw.
I have one logging crew that uses nothing but used motor oil in there saws.I have been watching them now for over a year and they dont buy anymore chains and bars then the other loggers do.When they drain there oil from there engines,they always use a clean drain pan,strain it and pour it in a clean drum.
If there would be enough grit an grime in used oil to wipe out the oil pump in your saw,wouldn't you think that it would have wiped the oil pump and bearing out of the engine that it came from?Which has the closer tolerances?
The chain might stretch a little more with use oil but I would have to see were some test where done to prove it to me.Is it that big of a deal if it does stretch a little more?Most of the time the teeth are gone before you have to remove any links to keep the tight.
If the sprocket does wear a little faster,does it really matter?How much does a rim cost?
It might wear the bar a little faster but again I have never seen a study on this.Can the ash and acid heart the bar?
How many bars do they actually wear out before the bend them beyond use?
They tell me what they save a year on buying bar/chain they can buy a few more items and be ahead dollar wise.They also take into consideration how much they would have to pay to get rid of the waist oil.I am sure that it isn't environmentally friendly,but it there way to dispose of it.
Later
Dan
 
Exhaust on an 066

You know the port on my 066 blows directly onto the bar and chain. If the exhaust is so caustic to chains why did they design it to blow away chips while depositing exhaust on the bar and chain?
 
I know that EVERYTHING causes cancer according to somebody, but, besides the poorer lubricating qualities of used motor oil compared to bar oil, I don't like the idea of wearing the used oil that gets slung all over the user.:(
 
Hmmm

Interesting thought, they do recycle motor oil and basically the only thing they do is to clean it up, (filter out the contaminates). Oil doesn’t loose it’s ability to lubricate, it just gets dirty. Considering the parts that are actually being lubricate, (no close tolerances) it probably makes sense that it could work, except that I thought I heard bar oil has something in it to make it sticky. Does anyone know if it is true?:confused:
Think I will use bar oil though.
 
Yes. Bar oil is simply motor oil (usually 30 wt.) with a tack additive to help reduce sling.
My shop has Stihl bar lube for about 4 dollars a gallon when you buy a case or more. About the same as cheap oil, worth it to me.

Stihl and Husky have a veggie based bar lube, but it's expensive (and a different topic).
 
Yes, bar oil has"tack additives" which reduce the throw off at high chain speeds and make it act as more of an extreme pressure lubricant than regular motor oil.
 
Well Newfie

I figuire the exhaust of the 066 and my Ford pickup have similar caustic properties to it. So ... if the waste, caustic materials found in used oil is so bad way is the saw muffler blowing this stuff on the bar and chain? I know Dozerdan ... it is an advanced Stihl Chain Bar heater! Would would you call this upgrade since Artic kit is already in use? maybe it is a way to compensate for chain stretch?!? Okay I am done being silly ! Please submit your rebuttal! Oh, by the way I use new 30 weght HD oil in the saws but I can see using used oil.
 

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