Barber chair

[ncpete]

Those McCulloch engineers knew how to get power out of an engine. My 56cc McCinderblock (SE3420, PM605) is the successor to that engine design and pulls a 24" bar surprisingly well - it's a practical, usable combination and that's the bar I keep on it.

this has me looking for one, casually. Had I known their strengths 13 years ago, would have made efforts to save my dad's old 10-10 from the yard sale mom held to clear out garage and basement when she moved south after his passing. Was able to save some old hand tools, but never gave much thought to OPE then - also sort of figured one of my brother's would have scored these, having lived much closer.

 

[svk]

I'd just treat it as any other traditional tree. Place your undercut and saw in the backcut with no hesitation.
If in doubt, I'd be asking Golickit or Mandy Crack. Those guys are the real deal.

Thanks.

Bore and trigger or just traditional back cut? It isn't a heavy leaner.

 

[svk]

Mac 10-10 --- running one hell of a bar, it would seem, for a 54cc saw?

I believe all of his saws are worked over. I know my 54 cc Mac is powerful for an old saw but it doesn't pull like that one.

 

[ncpete]

there's a few listed as runners on FleaBay. temptation runs strong.

 

[svk]

there's a few listed as runners on FleaBay. temptation runs strong.

I have two parts saws that could be combined to make one runner with parts to spare.....

 

[ncpete]

I have two parts saws that could be combined to make one runner with parts to spare.....

Not in market yet - just sorely tempted.

 

[rwoods]

I believe RandyMac once posted that his brother (RIP) knew how to make a 10-10 talk. Ron

 

[Westboastfaller]

How would you guys suggest cutting a tree like this to put it on the ground without surprises? I just want to fall it towards the lean. The cross hatched is the assumed depth of rot judging by the punky wood on the outside. It's about an 18" aspen.

View attachment 555847

The concern when you have a situation like that could be holding capability if it is also weight heavy to the left. If it was weight heavy to the right a bit when you have intact holding wood on the tension side. If its dominantly a front lean then. Not to much te be conconsidered
about. If it was weight heavy to the left I would put a very shallow open undercut then cut I steeper angle out of the stump.
(West coast Swanson) to ensure it frees of all holding wood early and the butt will slip to the ground before it's allowed to tip off into an unintended direction. You could still use it with a heavy front and side leaner with a back strap. Just don't leave too much holding wood.
Works really good for falling through tight canopies as the tree has an ability to roll. High cuts are even better because it can drop and roll at the same time.
It's a tecneque to have the butt hit before the top. Very important for a faller to us on a degree of an up hill fall. Which I stongly advise against up hill falling.

Speaking of high cut. Usuallry better wood can be found higher up.

 

[009L]

The concern when you have a situation like that could be holding capability if it is also weight heavy to the left. If it was weight heavy to the right a bit when you have intact holding wood on the tension side. If its dominantly a front lean then. Not to much te be conconsidered
about. If it was weight heavy to the left I would put a very shallow open undercut then cut I steeper angle out of the stump.
(West coast Swanson) to ensure it frees of all holding wood early and the butt will slip to the ground before it's allowed to tip off into an unintended direction. You could still use it with a heavy front and side leaner with a back strap. Just don't leave too much holding wood.
Works really good for falling through tight canopies as the tree has an ability to roll. High cuts are even better because it can drop and roll at the same time.
It's a tecneque to have the butt hit before the top. Very important for a faller to us on a degree of an up hill fall. Which I stongly advise against up hill falling.

Speaking of high cut. Usuallry better wood can be found higher up.

"West coast Swanson"

I don't suppose there's a website where one could see a lot of the different cut styles illustrated??? (WCS, Humbolt, etc.)

Pat

 

[Westboastfaller]

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/falling-pics-11-25-09.116358/page-565

Here is some west coast Swansons.
used for protecting the wood in down hill falls. Have some more pics and vid in 569 and up too

 

[009L]

http://www.arboristsite.com/community/threads/falling-pics-11-25-09.116358/page-565

Here is some west coast Swansons.
used for protecting the wood in down hill falls. Have some more pics and vid in 569 and up too

Thanks WBF,

For some reason I completely forgot about that thread. A shame really, so many awesome pictures!

Pat

 

[hseII]

I dug this up from page 9 that I've been aware of. I also dug up Brian's triangle pic from page 4 yesterday.
Some may call me a procrastinater and others a great planner of my work.
I'm always planning for 'tomorrow'.

I think you and Brian are a little humble and make a little light of your "levels" .
Falling cuts are often the focus but make up a small percentage of the big picture.
Although a must to achieve and maintenance exeptable stump quality.
Its how you go about the failing. Decision makeing skills is huge.
You guys show great common sense and maturity. There is always a fear when things are written on the Internet out this trade, Just because something is said doesn't mean it's chiseled in stone and it's a 'cure all' we after all, don't monitor each other's common sense when tasks are played out. One guy was asking if we could give him a 100% answer on here?
That scares the heck out of me.
I wanted to use this opportunity to complement the good, (and there are many)and bring it back home to the founndation where the focus needs to be.
There *WERE* many guys that *WERE* Absolute surgeons on the saw. That doesn't make ANYONE a good faller.

I'm always open for any 'side bar' convo.
from anyone,
But let's be clear, advice may influence decisions but it can't dictate one's decision. Saftey is everyone's responsibility.

Well you are very polite
Nice hanging out.



Right, like a said before, we all find our styles. Tiger Woods was on top of everyone and took 18 months out to reconstruct his swing. Maybe he wasn't talking about Golf now that I think of it.
Sure we was. I've changed things years ago on the advice of another that were better for me then but now I think it's time to change back because I've changed as well changed other things. I think I'm going to start doing my angle cut on my Humboldt first now as I once did. I set from the front now and not the corner.
I still have to do it right anyway but setting from the front gives my a natural reference of level to tip.
Regardless of which one you do first you got to do it right as the first cut sets everything up. Looking back, You can't tip level from the side on a regular basis with out a flat cut you can reference off of so you chase the cut to hit your aim and you are left with a çockeyed undercut.

If your tree has a forward and a low lean my concern with boring from the high side is getting pinched. It can be a tough way to test the waters. Having said that, cutting any of your holding wood on such a tree will make matters worse such as you speak, unnecessary! I'm all for that you are saying. I'd try tickle the shell from the bottom to test the side bind when you have the maximum amount of meat. If its feeling good then cut 'half' your 'tee' or at the least ring the botton sap wood. Then work it from the top to complete your objective. Peal the top evenly cuting down and not through the back. Just a scenerio; some food for thought.
It's certainly not advisable to cut either side of your holding wood or even tapering the top when you have side bind.
For your best bet is to use the Johnny HMT, and set it after the undercut and all the way to the bottom you want to hold all the holding wood as long as you can. You are not booting the tree you're holding the tree. I mentioned about taking a few kerfs out and creating a vertical face.
You can actually bore that face. It can be your first cut If you want; if you are not dealing with too much side bind.
If you don't want it to look like such a big back step, you don't have to utilize the whole 4". You can also bore the thickness of your holding wood you want to peal and it doesn't have to go to the bottom to help


,

Thank You.

We replaced 200' of fence yesterday, & while we were in that section, noticed many dead &/or hazard trees that had to go.

Trees falling on a fence & cattle getting out is bad business, especially because my grandparents are the only ones at home during the week. We all either work out of town, or are at work till dark during the week.

Stone dead & hard as a rock about 3" in.

There was also a hickory tree inside the fence that had at least a 25 degree lean.

I wish I'd taken pics of that one, but boring the back cut was the only option.

My family has felled lots of trees, but they just did it, & never put the time in to learn the right way to do it.

They are all good in their own rights, but would have not taken the time to fell that tree the way I did, & I know there would have been problems.

 

[JimMorrison]

"West coast Swanson"

I don't suppose there's a website where one could see a lot of the different cut styles illustrated??? (WCS, Humbolt, etc.)

Pat

If you google "Humboldt cut" or "unintentional Dutchman" one of the search results will be a U.S. Forestry site. This site has a lot of illustrations and info on felling techniques.

 

[Westboastfaller]

https://www.youtube.com/shared?ci=d2TaSF30FMU
This is a a good one Pat. I see they have the modified Swanson in this too. (West coast Swanson).

 

[Gypo Logger]

Thank You.

We replaced 200' of fence yesterday, & while we were in that section, noticed many dead &/or hazard trees that had to go.

Trees falling on a fence & cattle getting out is bad business, especially because my grandparents are the o to ones at home during the week. We all either work out of town, or are at work till dark during the week.

Stone dead & hard as a rock about 3" in.

There was also a hickory tree inside the fence that had at least a 25 degree lean.

I wish I'd taken pics of that one, but boring the back cut was the only option.

My family has felled lots of trees, but they just did it, & never put the time in to learn the right way to do it.

They are all good in their own rights, but would have not taken the time to fell that tree the way I did, & I know there would have been problems.

Nice looking job on your felling cuts and best placement of tree.
What kinda tree is that in the upper left of your picture?

 

[hseII]

Probably Red Oak, but I don't remember.

 

[hseII]

Wait,

The one at 10:30, or the one @ 11:15?

 

[Gypo Logger]

The big one with the sun on it.

 

[rwoods]

White oak? Ron

 

[hseII]

White oak? Ron

This.