Best bar oil?

[sean donato]

The same

Most are.

There are plenty of old school motors still on the road. My bet is, if all you did was run modern oils in them they would get higher millage then the same motor did just 50 years ago using the oils of the day.

I run full synthetic in everything I own, including a 360fe block, and my 460 which is a 96 so its had the benefit of more modern tooling in its making, and tighter clearances as witnessed by the 10w30 weight oil its speked to have vs 10w40 oil from years past. The fe block has been in the family since 75, and is a 73 model year. 101k on the clock and I highly doubt it will go another 100k even with the Mobil 1 oil that's been used in it as long as I've been driving. Theres been more then a few instances of cams being wiped out from the lower ZDDP additives in modern oils, mainly from the cams not being as hard as modern cams metal. Would they have lasted longer? Likely but I doubt any of them would be hitting the 300k mark even with the best oil on the planet. But hey, I'm just another idiot on the internet, and we just started another oil debate.

 

[bwalker]

I run full synthetic in everything I own, including a 360fe block, and my 460 which is a 96 so its had the benefit of more modern tooling in its making, and tighter clearances as witnessed by the 10w30 weight oil its speked to have vs 10w40 oil from years past. The fe block has been in the family since 75, and is a 73 model year. 101k on the clock and I highly doubt it will go another 100k even with the Mobil 1 oil that's been used in it as long as I've been driving. Theres been more then a few instances of cams being wiped out from the lower ZDDP additives in modern oils, mainly from the cams not being as hard as modern cams metal. Would they have lasted longer? Likely but I doubt any of them would be hitting the 300k mark even with the best oil on the planet. But hey, I'm just another idiot on the internet, and we just started another oil debate.

The wasnt so much oil that made old school motors wear out quicker. It was carburetors washing the oil off the cylinder walls and diluting your oil. As soon as port FI came out longevity increased greatly. That's not to say oil quality has not improved. It has. Or that metallurgy hasnt like wise improved. It has as well. It's just neither of these contributed as much to higher mileage as FI.

 

[sean donato]

The wasnt so much oil that made old school motors wear out quicker. It was carburetors washing the oil off the cylinder walls and diluting your oil. As soon as port FI came out longevity increased greatly. That's not to say oil quality has improved. It has. Or that metallurgy hasnt like wise improved. It has as well. It's just neither of these contributed as much to higher mileage as FI.

Yes, I believe that was one of the things I listed several posts ago, either way, have derailed this more then enough.

 

[bwalker]

Yes, I believe that was one of the things I listed several posts ago, either way, have derailed this more then enough.

Ok, back to the topic at hand.
I'll be damned if I would run used oil in a saw. Its dirty nasty stuff and has acidic by products in it that may lead to oiler or oil tank damage over time. As cheap as bar oil is it's insane to use drain oil.

 

[sb47]

I run full synthetic in everything I own, including a 360fe block, and my 460 which is a 96 so its had the benefit of more modern tooling in its making, and tighter clearances as witnessed by the 10w30 weight oil its speked to have vs 10w40 oil from years past. The fe block has been in the family since 75, and is a 73 model year. 101k on the clock and I highly doubt it will go another 100k even with the Mobil 1 oil that's been used in it as long as I've been driving. Theres been more then a few instances of cams being wiped out from the lower ZDDP additives in modern oils, mainly from the cams not being as hard as modern cams metal. Would they have lasted longer? Likely but I doubt any of them would be hitting the 300k mark even with the best oil on the planet. But hey, I'm just another idiot on the internet, and we just started another oil debate.

I have a 94 chevy 5.7 with a throttle body that just rolled over 200K. I run Dullo 400 or Rotella in the summer and Valvoline 10w30 in the winter. It doesn't burn any oil or have any oil leaks. I'm a retired truck driver so I know how to take it easy on a motor. I can't see any reason it won't see 300K or more. I also pull a trailer a lot and I feel secure in driving it anywhere, even on long trips across the country. I'm even still running on the same original trany fluid. I have replace the starter,water pump, alternator, but everything else is original. I have never been in the motor or trany.

 

[sb47]

Ok, back to the topic at hand.
I'll be damned if I would run used oil in a saw. Its dirty nasty stuff and has acidic by products in it that may lead to oiler or oil tank damage over time. As cheap as bar oil is it's insane to use drain oil.

I've been doing it for over 15 years with zero issues. I did have a bar sprocket bearing seize up but it was the old style where you had to grease the sprocket through a little hole, and it was a very old bar with many, many hours on it. No saw or oil pump issues what so ever.

 

[KASH]

I have cut as a full time logger on and off over the course of the last 50 years I also cut my own and others fire wood.I use drain oil from vehicles and most of it was from carb equipped motors.I strain my oil threw a nylon panty hose.I have changed two oil pumps but both were due to inferior materials used in the oil pump.Bars wear from improper adjustment and the tips from dirt and normal wear.I also rinse my oil tanks fairly regular.
Let us say I have went threw 500 gallons of bar oil over 50 years 500x 10 equals 5000 dollars I can take a pretty nice holiday on that plus pick up a couple of cases of bars and chains or maybe that brand new saw I always wanted but was too cheap to buy .
Think of how I saved the enviorment of hundreds of empty plastic one gallon jugs.
Kash

 

[Ol' Brian]

I've only ever used what my local farm store carries... the cheaper stuff, not the Husky or Stihl brands which always seem to be North of $12 per gallon.

Recently I bought a gallon of Rural King's $5 "Harvest King" branded bar oil which I'm using right now... it would be a good winter grade oil, but it's a little thinner than I would like for summer use. Also over the weekend, I just picked up at Menards, 4 gallons of "Mystik" bar oil that they had on sale for $7/gal. I've always liked Mystik oil products, so I grabbed 4 gallons. Never seen it before. Just shaking the jug, I can tell it is higher viscosity than the Harvest King.

All the YT guys say Husky or Stihl "sure is good stuff"... and I'm sure it is. But... at those prices that stuff should sharpen your chain too.