BackWoodsGuy
ArboristSite Member
I Just burnt up my 20 year old poulan 2000 and decided to move on to a 361. wondering if anyone has an openion?
Best bar type for a 361 solid or laminate
- Thread starter BackWoodsGuy
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MCW
Somebody's talking crap here & it ain't the tree!
Solid bars are certainly tougher and can take more abuse but if you don't cut much a laminated bar will do the same job at half the price of a Pro type bar.
Get a 20" ES W/RSC chain
BackWoodsGuy
ArboristSite Member
I was thinking about the 18" i want to be able to use it as an all purpose saw, falling, limbing, and cutting.
gallegosmike
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Get a soild bar and be done with it. Its going to last alot longer and it is more stronger / durable! Just remember to grease sprocket tip evertime you refill up gas/oil.
id run 20" ES bar aswell. and yes make danged sure you grease the sprocket tip if you can find a place to grease it.
:bang:
umpkin2:
i dont grease anything even if they have spot to grease them, i havent had any troube in 12 or so cord this season
:bang:umpkin2:i dont grease anything even if they have spot to grease them, i havent had any troube in 12 or so cord this season
SawTroll
Information Collector
:agree2: That sounds like good thinking to me!
I prefere the laminated E bars on that light and nimble saw, as they add less weight up front.
On a 70cc saw and up, I would prefere the ES.
DougNH
ArboristSite Operative
I got an 18" "ES" bar with mine. My local dealer swapped it out at my request from the 20" Laminated "E" bar that was originally on the saw, at N/C. It sure doesn't hurt to ask! I haven't actually used this bar setup much since I've also got an 18" Sugihara for it, and that Sugihara bar is probably going to last longer than I do!
Last edited:
huskystihl
Addicted to ArboristSite
id run 20" ES bar aswell. and yes make danged sure you grease the sprocket tip if you can find a place to grease it.
i dont grease anything even if they have spot to grease them, i havent had any troube in 12 or so cord this season
There isn't a grease hole on stihl bars. I always wondered why but i've never ruined one because of it either.
PonderousPiner
ArboristSite Member
The local Stihl distributor head technical guy taught a chainsaw repair class for beginners at our local county extension back in June. He was saying Stihl found people would push sawdust and dirt into the sprocket along with the new grease, causing premature failure. The new design with no hole is supposed to be much more reliable than the old one.
I caught CAD at that darn class!
PPine
Roy M
ArboristSite Operative
There are advantages to both. Laminated bars are lighter and cheaper, many pros successfully use them. However,if the tip piles up, the bar needs to be replaced.
The solid bars with replaceable tips are the choice of most pros and while very durable, they have drawbacks. They are heavier. The tip can be replaced but only if the bar rails are in good condition and meet the new tip smoothly. I have seen new tips installed on worn bars, this is hard on the chain and increases the likelihood of the chain jumping off and personal injury plus a ruined chain. The bar rails could be built up and refaced, I used to do that with hard tip bars, but it is generally not cost effective.
The solid bars with replaceable tips are the choice of most pros and while very durable, they have drawbacks. They are heavier. The tip can be replaced but only if the bar rails are in good condition and meet the new tip smoothly. I have seen new tips installed on worn bars, this is hard on the chain and increases the likelihood of the chain jumping off and personal injury plus a ruined chain. The bar rails could be built up and refaced, I used to do that with hard tip bars, but it is generally not cost effective.
TRI955
I'm the man in the box
The local Stihl distributor head technical guy taught a chainsaw repair class for beginners at our local county extension back in June. He was saying Stihl found people would push sawdust and dirt into the sprocket along with the new grease, causing premature failure. The new design with no hole is supposed to be much more reliable than the old one.
I caught CAD at that darn class!
PPine
Very interesting.....
The bars sold under the Stihl name in Canada have a hole for grease (oregon re badged). I clean the hole out before greasing with the pointed end of a straight scribe to keep debris out.
If you are an occasional user of the saw it dosen't matter much which one you get just take care of it and it will last a long time.
