Best flush to remove bio-bar oil?

[KiwiBro]

yes I have a Flamingo too

It used to be alive, grazing on the oil patch, but it croaked and rigor mortis and the preservative influence of all that ingested mineral oil saved the taxidermy fees. Once a year, a 1/4 can of pink spray touch up is all that's required.

 

[c5rulz]

yes I have a Flamingo too

Had more but the bar oil drove em off.

 

[Little Al]

Evil **** expstosted to air solidifies .. Got that? Bad as epoxy!.

Whant to run the saws again without oilpump rebuild, and total line /fiter replacement.

That **** is EVIL!!!!

If you can obtain some machining/cutting soluble oil the type for lathe turning, milling, & turning( the type you mix with water & end up with a milky like liquid) mix to the stated ratio but use hot water ( just under boiling ) get your saw ready to go, but I found leave the first lot around 5/10 mins tip out, save & refill with another lot of hot, start & see how your oilier functions, the hot water seems to soften/ melt the canola/ bio goo, may have to run several lots through ( you can reuse the 1st/2nd lots reheated, if oil is mixed I find heating is best in an open topped can sitting in a can with water & bring the mix up to almost boiling)

 

[HuskyHeadDave]

I'm thinking that you need to can the wd40 and only use pb blaster ... WD will evaporate with that alcohol content and leave you high and real dry "missing the lube part within as little as 30 days". PB is also penetration oriented with the stock Dino base it leaves a lasting coat after the cutting action. Now if you have a tank and bar that's coated with this crap... Hit the dollar store and spend a buck on 90% rubbing alcohol ... It will clean up a mess of crap cheap! You might want to save a good spray bottle and pour this in straight as it will cut threw the general crud of wood dust and bar lube real good too. Just spritz some on and let it work the bast if with the air... Cheapo saw cleanup for sure!!!

If your trying to run a no Dino bar lube your really missing the tackifiers that make the lube cling to a bar... Motor oil or what have you are designed to fling not stick... So I don't see that your really getting oil in the groove. I'd consider making a bucket of 20w-50 and to 4 gallons add a tube of synthic bearing grease that's got some zink in it.., mix it real good with the morter paddle then pour into your old gallons??? The non Dino sh't is really pretty cheap from bailey's or some place like that??? I only run Motion Lotion so I'd add some of that to your crazy mix of else your basically pissing in the wind and distroying bars and chains in my mind. Bar oil isn't regular lube... It's actually quite the opposite of oil... Especially motor oil! I'll give you really big tip! Take your saw apart and rub down the internal engine parts with Amsoil Engine Builders Lube and let it set a couple days. Metal is poris and it soaks this stuff up... It will last 100 times longer... Brush the cleaned groves of your bars and rub your cleaned chains with it when you bag them up after sharpening... If you're not doing this right now then you got no clue how good your life could be! Your machine will love you for it! And this stuff imbedded and bonds into the metal so your ware is reduced! I've been hard at my redneck study of this idea and you will see your RPM's in your saw change. Every new plug or jug I get in now goes to the lube up then into a bag to allow it to absorb this lube. I go atleast a week. I have a Chinese jug and plug that's going into a husky 350 then the saw will be started and it will idol until it seazes... On the clock ... Running next to a 350 with a 45mm oem brand new as the standard ... This video will blow your mind... The proofs in the pudding ! I'm not from the show me state...but I like the way they think! Talks cheap and ******** walks.... Be watching YouTube for this cool build!!!!

 

[ChoppyChoppy]

My processor lubes the bar and chain with AW32... it no tackifiers. I have almost 800hrs on the bar and I'll likely get another 300-400hrs on it.

 

[HuskyHeadDave]

My processor lubes the bar and chain with AW32... it no tackifiers. I have almost 800hrs on the bar and I'll likely get another 300-400hrs on it.

Like a hydro drive timber cutter? And that's like 32 weight? What's the bar length? How much lube per foot of travel? You are probly squirtin' three times the amount of lube per foot of chain travel then the avarage chainsaw...? If I could redesign the egg I'd put 28 injectors blowing towards the outside of the chain and air blast a grafite power... And oil type lube is gonna hold on to ware causing particulate.... If you think about it!!!

 

[HuskyHeadDave]

Like a hydro drive timber cutter? And that's like 32 weight? What's the bar length? How much lube per foot of travel? You are probly squirtin' three times the amount of lube per foot of chain travel then the avarage chainsaw...? If I could redesign the egg I'd put 28 injectors blowing towards the outside of the chain and air blast a grafite power... And oil type lube is gonna hold on to ware causing particulate.... If you think about it!!!

My ex old lady came at me with her well lubed processor once and I gotta tell ya... I didn't like it much!

 

[HuskyHeadDave]

Hope that got ya a chuckle on this fine morning.... Ya'll! Gonna get to knock down a couple good ones today... Let the big dog eat! My new 661 with the 36 bolted on!!! I love her... She sounds more like a dirt bike then a chainsaw!!!!! O' yeah!